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Old 08-18-2012, 11:03 PM
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button head motor screws will let you get 36 tooth on the motor. Just keep a set in your box if you don't need them all the time.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:16 PM
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i got to run my 22 tonight, i did alot of changing,for me i run on a outside track rutty and covered in loam, ft blue ripps rear tire m4 calbers. then i changed to holeshots for the main, bad choice, should have stayed with the calibers turn for forward bite. that was the best tire i ran. i used 25wt oil with 55 pistons. 24mm ride height. shock springs and 3 degrees lrc block in rear with 1 degree off antisquat. (i found out that if u take one the 1 degree of squat, the arms rub the chassis so i had to leave it in. i guess i need to grind some on the chassis so i do with out any squat.) the buggy was ok but i think i can do better, i also used a full size lipo, all the way forward. i moved the front spindle carries down on the buggy, i took all the washers on the spindle and put them on the bottom, i got the idea from running associated b4.1 moving the spindle up and down cmakes the car turn in more or less. but changing to the holshot tires for the main messed me up in seeing how this adjustment work.
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
i got to run my 22 tonight, i did alot of changing,for me i run on a outside track rutty and covered in loam, ft blue ripps rear tire m4 calbers. then i changed to holeshots for the main, bad choice, should have stayed with the calibers turn for forward bite. that was the best tire i ran. i used 25wt oil with 55 pistons. 24mm ride height. shock springs and 3 degrees lrc block in rear with 1 degree off antisquat. (i found out that if u take one the 1 degree of squat, the arms rub the chassis so i had to leave it in. i guess i need to grind some on the chassis so i do with out any squat.) the buggy was ok but i think i can do better, i also used a full size lipo, all the way forward. i moved the front spindle carries down on the buggy, i took all the washers on the spindle and put them on the bottom, i got the idea from running associated b4.1 moving the spindle up and down cmakes the car turn in more or less. but changing to the holshot tires for the main messed me up in seeing how this adjustment work.
Are you looking for a loamy set up?
On a loamy track try Rebars fronts with stock inserts and rear Rebars with proline closed cells.. Money!
Ps- thank you guys for the button head screws
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Are you looking for a loamy set up?
On a loamy track try Rebars fronts with stock inserts and rear Rebars with proline closed cells.. Money!
Ps- thank you guys for the button head screws
rebars??????? really?????? i never have tired them, i really never thought of them being a loamy track tire??
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:04 AM
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Thanks for the carpet tyre suggestions.

Just starting to try and understand what camber links positions do.
I am wondering what the rear camber link 1/E would do as opposed to my current set up of 1/D?
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:57 AM
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Going to see if I can get a 34T pinion today at work. If not I guess I'll order some 70T spurs and start off with 32/70.

Probably going to borrow my friends Revtech 17.5T with HT rotor again for this Saturday.

I've got to ask though anyone have a preference of the D3.5 17.5T or Revtech 17.5T Maxzilla?
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:58 AM
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Is this setup still considered the best?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html

I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
rebars??????? really?????? i never have tired them, i really never thought of them being a loamy track tire??
Out here in Oregon its the tire of choice. In the beginning of the outdoor season holeshots or a small pin was the way to go but now i would say 90% of buggies all use Rebars.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Is this setup still considered the best?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html

I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
Try the Corey Bernado low bite setup it works best for me.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Out here in Oregon its the tire of choice. In the beginning of the outdoor season holeshots or a small pin was the way to go but now i would say 90% of buggies all use Rebars.
very cool to see someone from R/C Plus! Used to race offroad in Salem outdoors next to the KMart in the 80's!!!
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Losi57
Try the Corey Bernado low bite setup it works best for me.
This?
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...eyBernardo.pdf
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by racer-oZ
very cool to see someone from R/C Plus! Used to race offroad in Salem outdoors next to the KMart in the 80's!!!
Haha good ol days.. I'll send you a pm

When i talked to Corey loooong time ago his set up is for a loamy dirt track. You could use his as a base and adjust from there.

Or try franks set up for a base. Both have great results
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:59 PM
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Try the new Proline Tazers for loam. Save holeshots for for when it's hard packed with only a thin layer of dust.

Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.

Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Try the new Proline Tazers for loam. Save holeshots for for when it's hard packed with only a thin layer of dust.

Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.

Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
i should have keep the calibers on and i would have done better.
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
i should have keep the calibers on and i would have done better.
I tried a pair of Calibers on a friends 22 I borrowed before I bought mine and hated them. I wouldn't have called the track condition loamy but it was very damp with a good amount of loose dirt on top. The Calibers would cake up and turn into slicks.
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