TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
button head motor screws will let you get 36 tooth on the motor. Just keep a set in your box if you don't need them all the time.
first run
i got to run my 22 tonight, i did alot of changing,for me i run on a outside track rutty and covered in loam, ft blue ripps rear tire m4 calbers. then i changed to holeshots for the main, bad choice, should have stayed with the calibers turn for forward bite. that was the best tire i ran. i used 25wt oil with 55 pistons. 24mm ride height. shock springs and 3 degrees lrc block in rear with 1 degree off antisquat. (i found out that if u take one the 1 degree of squat, the arms rub the chassis so i had to leave it in. i guess i need to grind some on the chassis so i do with out any squat.) the buggy was ok but i think i can do better, i also used a full size lipo, all the way forward. i moved the front spindle carries down on the buggy, i took all the washers on the spindle and put them on the bottom, i got the idea from running associated b4.1 moving the spindle up and down cmakes the car turn in more or less. but changing to the holshot tires for the main messed me up in seeing how this adjustment work.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
i got to run my 22 tonight, i did alot of changing,for me i run on a outside track rutty and covered in loam, ft blue ripps rear tire m4 calbers. then i changed to holeshots for the main, bad choice, should have stayed with the calibers turn for forward bite. that was the best tire i ran. i used 25wt oil with 55 pistons. 24mm ride height. shock springs and 3 degrees lrc block in rear with 1 degree off antisquat. (i found out that if u take one the 1 degree of squat, the arms rub the chassis so i had to leave it in. i guess i need to grind some on the chassis so i do with out any squat.) the buggy was ok but i think i can do better, i also used a full size lipo, all the way forward. i moved the front spindle carries down on the buggy, i took all the washers on the spindle and put them on the bottom, i got the idea from running associated b4.1 moving the spindle up and down cmakes the car turn in more or less. but changing to the holshot tires for the main messed me up in seeing how this adjustment work.
On a loamy track try Rebars fronts with stock inserts and rear Rebars with proline closed cells.. Money!
Ps- thank you guys for the button head screws
rebars??????? really?????? i never have tired them, i really never thought of them being a loamy track tire??
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Thanks for the carpet tyre suggestions.
Just starting to try and understand what camber links positions do.
I am wondering what the rear camber link 1/E would do as opposed to my current set up of 1/D?
Just starting to try and understand what camber links positions do.
I am wondering what the rear camber link 1/E would do as opposed to my current set up of 1/D?
Going to see if I can get a 34T pinion today at work. If not I guess I'll order some 70T spurs and start off with 32/70.
Probably going to borrow my friends Revtech 17.5T with HT rotor again for this Saturday.
I've got to ask though anyone have a preference of the D3.5 17.5T or Revtech 17.5T Maxzilla?
Probably going to borrow my friends Revtech 17.5T with HT rotor again for this Saturday.
I've got to ask though anyone have a preference of the D3.5 17.5T or Revtech 17.5T Maxzilla?
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Is this setup still considered the best?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html
I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html
I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Out here in Oregon its the tire of choice. In the beginning of the outdoor season holeshots or a small pin was the way to go but now i would say 90% of buggies all use Rebars.
Tech Addict
Is this setup still considered the best?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html
I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...314/index.html
I race on a dusty, bumpy 1/8 clay outdoor track which begins too grove by the mains and when watered is very high traction for a couple of races then it is medium/low. No big jumps.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
very cool to see someone from R/C Plus! Used to race offroad in Salem outdoors next to the KMart in the 80's!!!
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
When i talked to Corey loooong time ago his set up is for a loamy dirt track. You could use his as a base and adjust from there.
Or try franks set up for a base. Both have great results
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Try the new Proline Tazers for loam. Save holeshots for for when it's hard packed with only a thin layer of dust.
Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.
Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.
Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
Try the new Proline Tazers for loam. Save holeshots for for when it's hard packed with only a thin layer of dust.
Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.
Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
Flipouts when it's wet (like first thing in the morning or later in the night when moisture comes up.) That's the general rule of thumb I would follow. Obviously this will change from track to track and region to region.
Oh and if I'm not mistaken, Rebars are a straight up clay tire. If you can make them work in other situations, chances are there is another tire that will work better for you and not wear as bad.
I tried a pair of Calibers on a friends 22 I borrowed before I bought mine and hated them. I wouldn't have called the track condition loamy but it was very damp with a good amount of loose dirt on top. The Calibers would cake up and turn into slicks.