1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
01-18-2011, 04:32 PM
#1653
A car's wheelbase and turning radius are not always directly related. The 22 is longer, but has more lock (angle of the front wheels at full travel to the left or right) than the XXX series and actually turns a tighter radius (curb radius). A 2wd with a super short wheelbase and only 35 degrees of lock will not turn a very tight turning radius. A longer car with say 42 degrees of steering lock can actually turn tighter with a smaller turning radius. This is all taking into account that that the front tires are not sliding on the track surface etc which is another story all together. The 22 has alot of natural steering built into it (insert boring geometry techno-babble here) and also has alot of wheel lock (wheel angle at full turn). The result is a very neutral, yet progressive steering feel. It is amazing how tight the car can turn, yet how neutral it is around center.
Thanks for the info that's what I was looking
01-18-2011, 11:09 PM
#1655
Tech Apprentice
All my stuff is starting to come in. 
Today I got my front taper pin with JConcept molded foams (thought I'd give them a try, they seem really firm though so i have my doubts) Thursday i should be getting my rear bk bars and S6040 servo, and then Friday my saddle packs should be here for mid-motor setup. This is both torture and exciting.
Just one more month fella's (that is if the February release holds true)
Today I got my front taper pin with JConcept molded foams (thought I'd give them a try, they seem really firm though so i have my doubts) Thursday i should be getting my rear bk bars and S6040 servo, and then Friday my saddle packs should be here for mid-motor setup. This is both torture and exciting.Just one more month fella's (that is if the February release holds true)
01-19-2011, 05:17 AM
#1657
Another question. I plan on running this buggy on an outdoor 8th scale track. No racing, just fun track time for me. I have a Murffdog 13.5 and a Tekin 8.5. Should I keep both or just run 1? Which 1 to run if I only keep 1, is 8.5 too much for 2wd buggy?
01-19-2011, 07:25 AM
#1660
Also the receiver, side pods of the chassis and body, not to mention the chassis being made out of aluminum, and thus heavier and more dense than composite mass being centralized. In a vehicle that is not very heavy, relatively speaking, the centralization of mass, albeit even a slight amount, will have an effect on how easy it wants to change directions. Also you have to take into consideration how things scale up and down. For example if you take a real car and you move the rear hubs forward 0.3% of the wheelbase. It will change the weight distribution and wheelbase, but it probably won't make a noticable difference in handling. However if you move the rear hubs forward 1mm (which happens to be 0.3% of the wheelbase of my TRF201) on a 1/10th scale 2wd buggy, it drastically effects the handling of the car. This is what this thread and rctech should be, but alas we are stuck with "This is different it won't work" posts, and "Why does my Slash break if I drive it into a wall at full speed" threads, oh well. It would be interesting to take a CR chassis and cut the side pods off and see how much they weigh, then weigh the 22 chassis alone to see how much weight in just the chassis was centralized. Then ad that to the receiver and esc.
01-19-2011, 09:08 AM
#1661
Tech Apprentice
01-19-2011, 10:43 AM
#1663
I'm more inclined to see the increased steering coming from the higher pivot point on the front hubs producing a lower front roll center similar to 4wd buggies.
01-19-2011, 11:53 AM
#1664
Didn't want to look through 100 pages (on a vehicle that's not even out yet!) to find this out: Can I use a regular 5000mah, 40c lipo that I use in everything else, or do I need the special size lipos they show?
