HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Front--

Toe = 0
Ride Height = 24
Camber = -1
Caster = 5
Kick Angle = 25
Oil = 27.5w
Piston = 55
Spring= Red
Spindles = trailing
Shock limiters = 2mm
Shock locations = 1/middle
Bump Steer = 1.5mm


Rear--

Toe = 3.5
Anti Squat = 1
Roll center = LRC 3.5
Ride Height = 24mm
Camber = -1
Rear hub spacing = full foward, 4mm spacer behind hub.
Hex Width = +.75mm
Oil = 27.5wt
Piston = 55
Spring = Yellow
Shock limiters = 0
Camber link = 1/D
Shock Locations = 1/Inside
Battery Position = full forward.

Thanks for the suggestion, will try more squat at first. Change oil after. The slap is very noticeable coming down off big jumps. It creates a small amount of drag when it lands and sometimes breaks loose because of it.

slow

How about adding more droop in the rear by unscrewing the shock end 2 or 3 turns. I'm running white springs with 1 degree antisquat and not really having a problem with chassis slap. But maybe you have bigger jumps.

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Oh, wow, i didnt even think of that. Its funny too, i just checked this on my SCTE last night after i installed the HA pivots. I will certainly give this a try.

SUPERLOOPER

iTrader: (7)

You can also move the bottom of the shock to the outside hole on the rear a arm and make the shock more progressive. I run 3 rounds out on the shock, white spring and outside on the arm 55 piston and 25 weight oil. I race on a 1/8 track and have some chassis slap but not much. I run shorty pack which weighs less and makes the car lighter.

Brian

secretboy

Has anyone ran the new Pro-line black diamond shock shafts? They seem a lot better than the TiNitride shaft. Not sure if 33 bucks for a set of 2 is worth it..

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

..

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I have them ordered through my LHS but they haven't arrived yet. If they last a full 4 months of racing then it will be break even with the TLR shock shafts as I have to typically replaced those once a month or at least before every large race if I want my shocks to be in top form.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

now i feel bad for neglecting my shafts.. they are still the originals from last year!

i just rebuilt my shocks last week and they feel really smooth.. am i missing something? (and they don't leak)

SUPERLOOPER

iTrader: (7)

No you are fine. The coating does not affect the performance of the shock at the level we are racing. Now if you are a factory driver maybe you can tell a difference. I have been racing for over 25 years I can promise you the shaft with some coating missing is fine. My 22 works great even with the silver gold shaft. Plus it saves some weight!

Brian

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Its funny, ill tell my GF all the time.....

NEVER......neglect the shaft.......

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

The loss of the coating creates a bit more friction than I like on the bench. My car just feels better with new shock shafts on it vs ones that look worn. I admit, it's probably just mental, as it drives me nuts to look at them worn out. I have shock shafts from my extra set of Triple-X shocks that I used on different cars for 3-4 seasons that look better than TLR22 shock shafts just after a week or two of racing.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

now im curious about getting new shafts (thanks guys)



LOL... now that was funny!

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Thanks for the info. Are these aluminum or plastic?

weavty1

iTrader: (12)

Looking at the plastic flashing leftover on the top of the caps, I think it'd be safe to assume they're plastic

kompressor

iTrader: (1)

a couple of questions. what set up are most using now adays for a high bite indoor clay track?

has anyone upgraded bearings to ceramic? I was thinking about this and I couldn't find anything on it. there are acer and advantage. these cars are so responsive to the smallest thing I can only imagine a more free bearing can only help with acceleration, response and put less stress on motor and other parts.

thanks