yea its been only the rear diff, had a lot of play but i thought before i put it back in the high brakes killed em. and i had someone do my slipper for me. they said what i had was good anyway.

i will shim the diff so its tight but not over doing it. :)thanks a lot for all the help guys!

what is the highst kv i can run in it i have 5700 kv motor in it and a tad slow?

Really? I used to use a 6.5 LRP (5200kv) that was fast enough. At the moment I'm playing with a 8.5 LRP with the boost turned all the way up, it is a little slow and easier to drive through the corners then the 6.5.

i think it is my gearing 18 81/ 18 84

i think with a 10.5 i was using a 22 or 21 and a 84 spur (whatever the book recomends for a 10.5 to start with) motor was warm. still far off for my LRp from the 160 max mark. needs more motor.

My LRP 6.5 is geared on 18/81 and the 8.5 is geared on 23/81.


Try 17/84, that may fix it.

I would say that your motor is under geared if they are getting really hot. I think my mate was using a 26/78 last year.

Try cutting away more of the body at the rear. The outlet holes for cooling are more important then the inlet holes at the front of the body. There is no point ramming air in to your body if it cant escape anywhere. This should help in lowering the temperature of the motor and ESC

Raced again tonight, but had some unfortunate luck in the main, was tq ran a 14 5:07.444 with a fast lap of a 20.23(pretty good for my level super fast guys are in the 19's) started the main off rocky(flipped in the very first turn dropped back to like 5th worked my way back up to second and was slowly closing the gap on the leader who had checked out( I was within 8 seconds and closing with @4 or so minutes left in the race) and my top deck screw that holds the motor mount in place backed off and caused a mesh issue. forcing me to drop out..Oh well I'll get em next time or so I hope

I dont think those #s are right. I think 5700 is closer to a 7.5. 6.5 is more in the 6600kv range.

Little update on the B44.1 and driving.

It has been a rough few months with this thing trying to keep it off the pipes or walls. I swear they jump out in front of me on the track.

Ran some new tires Rebar front and rear. from Barcodes front and rear.
motor setup is a Viper VTX10R/VST6.5
Gearing 19/81. going to try a 84 tomorrow to see if I can get some better temps
BB Losi springs front rear
Front Orange
Rear White

TC3 front one-way diff.

My old personal best was 12.05 seconds
New best as of last night 11.80 Seconds backed by a 11.92 and a 11.82

I am happy with it.

does anyone make metal diff gears?

Not real confident with plastic gears(Im new to 1/10)

Maybe your SP motors are overrated! ;) I think...:D....just stirring.

My kv info was from the side of the box which it came in! (5300kv to be exact) This is the reason why I listed the brand which I'm using, as all are manufactured motors are built to different specs.

It was just a guide to help Vito make a decision. Size and condition of the track will have to be taken into account with gearing also.

I found some aluminum ones on Ebay under Associated b44 serch. You can only use one aluminum and one plastic or they wear out supper fast. I found it best to use the plastic diff or pinoin and aluminum ring gear.

Whats the difference in the A and B camber mounts on the factory aluminum rear hubs? One looks a little more offset.
Whats the best one to use indoors clay and black dirt?

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9865/

nice! guess you are liking that one way then??

also, if i remember correctly...the 84t wont fit on the 44.1 unless you cut the gear hole out in the chassis:confused: