they have been selling around that price for awhile now. Hopfully the 44 gets a update with the new shocks ect... :rolleyes:

could be that AE put the B44.1 on sale to sell more kits

+1

We run on some pretty bumpy outdoors tracks down here in Australia. The ballast helps give the car rotation off power, stability on power and rides the bumps better but does bottom more on landing and can make the car feel edgier to drive. Taking the ballast out tends to smooth out the handling but can suffer a little in the tight stuff.

With the losi BB springs, use the standard holes in the arms / towers (outer hole front arm / inner hole rear arm / inner holes on towers). The Losi Green frt / White rear is standard, but you can try Blue fr / yellow rear if you want a stiffer setup. This is good on the flowing tracks but will lose time in the tight stuff. Does make the car much easier to drive with blue / yellow if you are just starting out.

I run for the AE factory team in Australia and have a help thread with my standard setups. See this link here for some more info:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10587848-post4.html

Hope this helps!

Ray

Stormer has ALWAYS sold stuff below the intended "Street" price. its what he does. As a dealer, I have items that sell for MAP pricing (essentially what Towers price is) and using that as a reference, you usually aren't supposed to sell below that IF you advertise the price. Stormer however doesn't play that way and only makes a small margin over what he pays. Kinda screws other Stores like mine trying to be competitive yet still pay rent, lights salary, taxes etc.


I kinda searched the thread but nothing really answered what i was hoping for.

I'll be picking up a NIB B44.1 for Crazy cheap and my last B44 was already assembled when i got it, though I did tear it apart and build it up, this will be my first time assembling the 44.1.

Since I will have a little $$ to play with for upgrades out of the box, I was looking at swapping some parts in as I put it together. This will likely get raced on indoor clay or Outdoor blue-groove tracks.

- Are ceramic bearings the way to go? How often are people replacing the Ceramic bearings? I've never used them, always stuck with the rubber shield ones.
- Are the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles and hinge pins different? I don't have anything against stock, but I like lunsford stuff. opinions? https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...ode=CARS-ASB44
- Do the slipper pads require sanding?
- Does ANYONE run the stock shocks with success or is the Losi BB or Kyosho BB upgrade the only way to go? I'd like to keep it simple.
- Any other things i should know going in? New wing mount worth it?
- Other parts or upgrades i should consider that i may have forgotten about?


Thanks

MOmo

In order to get more B44.1's into the hands of drivers before Losi puts out a new 4wd buggy.

is that even in development? last i heard it was going to be a XX4.1, but is nowhere near completion

a new losi wheeler would be pretty sweet

Have a b44.1 on the way and was going to pick up a fantom apex 7.5 for it. Our track is a tight hardpack outdoor style with 1 long back straight about 90ft long. Trying to come up with gearing ideas. Thanks

I run my 7.5 with a 20 pinion on an outdoor medium bite track (SRS in Scottsdale AZ) When I ran at a smaller indoor track with more traction I went to a 19.

You really don't need any of what you've listed for aftermarket parts, aside from BB springs being a good choice to go with. The rest of it is really minimal gains for the money spent.

The things I would suggest is:
-A lot of the team guys run the rear aluminum shock tower mount.
-A new set of ball cups as the kit ones are usually more brittle.
-The stock diff balls are carbide and are great, but once they wear out replace them with ceramic ones since they will pretty much last forever.
-An extra package of diff shims, you want to add 2 more shims to the short outdrive (behind the ring gear) and add atleast 1 or 2 shims to the long outdrive side. This is especially important on the front diff as it is more sensitive to improper shimming which will result in stripped gear under hard braking.
-The rear FT ballast weight, and depending on the weight of your batteries you might want to cut it down to ~50g.
-Ditch the undertray and get the FT chassis tape, it's WAY better!
-If you can get either the finnisher or Bulldog body for more steering.

Lastly, get a couple extra front shock shaft, spring cups, and front arms...thats a MUST!

+1

RPM Ball Cups
Extra front arms
Shock caps (i also have a spare front & rear shock shaft but never broken one)
Extra bevel diff gear sets
Diff shims (ignore the manual, shim until ZERO side to side play, usually about 6 shims on one side, 3 - 4 on the other)
Chassis film

Werd

Thanks. I've got those in the box

Yup, shim until there is no side play. Usually you can't shim the diff gear more than 6 shims until you get notchy-ness due to gear mesh that is too tight. The other side is less critical, usually 2 shims for a new diff and up to 5 shims if it is a fairly used diff.

I've never heard the local Team guys say they shim their diffs do tightly...maybe that's why I keep blowing up rear gears! I thought it was because my slipper was too tight...

Totally worth a try!