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-   -   B44.1 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/441523-b44-1-thread.html)

fastchvy 05-03-2012 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by carver gt (Post 10689554)
Well.. I was actually talking Bout SDrC but I may go up there at some point

Pm me if you want a good set up for wcrc....

carver gt 05-03-2012 11:02 PM

PM'ed

TJMac 05-04-2012 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by SFtifosi (Post 10687134)
Thanks for the info everyone. I guess I shouldn't bother with NiMH. There isn't a top tier company I can find that even sells loose NiMH cells. I guess that should tell me everything I need to know.

If you really want NiMH I'd contact Pro-Match, they still sell them (matched even).....or at least they did.

TJMac 05-04-2012 09:06 AM

Just checked, they still sell them....
 
Pro-Match NiMH cells

rigor 05-04-2012 09:36 AM

Need some help!
 
I recently picked up a lightly used B44.1 . I've been taking my time going over the car to both clean and familiarize myself with it, as it's my first 4WD buggy (always had 2WD RC10's before).

Everything with the car kit itself, the drivetrains, gears, slipper feel, etc, all spin freely and very well. However, once I mount a motor into the car (19T pinion / 81 spur), if I pull the throttle on my Tx the wheels will turn for about 1/4 a second then stop. After that, throttle or braking does no action on the car, but I can see the Tekin ESC controller accepting my Tx actions by the light patterns.

Trying to further determine what was going on, I switched out to a motor I know is good and working fine in my 2WD buddy. Same thing; binds up. I then tried manually turning the spur gear while the motor appears to be mounted properly (good gear mesh) and basically the spur turns well and then becomes VERY tough to turn, feels like it's binding HARD. I can force it past this point by hand, and then the same thing repeats; turns nicely and then BAM... very tough to turn.

I'm not new to RC cars and have checked the B44.1 manual, and it appears I have everything with the motor mounted fine. What else could it be ? What else do I check ? Would really appreciate the help. I'm ready to get this buggy going!

Thanks so much,
Jesse

T3tsaya 05-04-2012 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by fastchvy (Post 10689645)
To be honest, the 2 biggest changes that made a big difference for me was the rear carbon c brace and the new AVID BB springs. Get the diffs set and slipper set right and you will have a load of fun..

Can anyone possibly provide a link to this brace and do the avid springs mount right up to the v2 shocks or does it require more parts

crashnburn 05-04-2012 09:55 AM

Could be the spur gear is out of round. Some of the Robinson Racing spurs are really bad for this. Just a thought....or brain fart.

zipperfoot 05-04-2012 04:34 PM


Originally Posted by rigor (Post 10691319)
I recently picked up a lightly used B44.1 . I've been taking my time going over the car to both clean and familiarize myself with it, as it's my first 4WD buggy (always had 2WD RC10's before).

Everything with the car kit itself, the drivetrains, gears, slipper feel, etc, all spin freely and very well. However, once I mount a motor into the car (19T pinion / 81 spur), if I pull the throttle on my Tx the wheels will turn for about 1/4 a second then stop. After that, throttle or braking does no action on the car, but I can see the Tekin ESC controller accepting my Tx actions by the light patterns.

Trying to further determine what was going on, I switched out to a motor I know is good and working fine in my 2WD buddy. Same thing; binds up. I then tried manually turning the spur gear while the motor appears to be mounted properly (good gear mesh) and basically the spur turns well and then becomes VERY tough to turn, feels like it's binding HARD. I can force it past this point by hand, and then the same thing repeats; turns nicely and then BAM... very tough to turn.

I'm not new to RC cars and have checked the B44.1 manual, and it appears I have everything with the motor mounted fine. What else could it be ? What else do I check ? Would really appreciate the help. I'm ready to get this buggy going!

Thanks so much,
Jesse

Have you cracked open the gearboxes and checked the mesh? Start at each end of the car. Check the CVD's for binding, bearings, spur gear like the other guy said, and even your sensor cable on the ESC. Does it do the same thing on a stand with the wheels off the ground as it does when placed on the ground? Just my two cents.

the big rc 05-04-2012 04:44 PM

I am finishing up my factory team kit and there was no ballast weight in it. I don't see it listed on the newer set up sheets. Are they not using it now on the FT B44.1?

nevermind i just found it

Dias 05-04-2012 04:52 PM

Issues screwing shock shaft into eyelet.
 
Hey all, I searching for a post about this, but not having any luck, so thought I'd quit beating my head on the desk and post.

I broke a shock shaft a couple weeks ago(broke inside the eyelet, had about 3 threads on shaft).

I got a replacement shaft and a package of eyelets. I cannot get the shaft tho thread into the eyelet. Is there a trick to this? Do the numbers on the eyelets make a difference or are they just batch numbers or something?

Thanks in advance for any help on this. Very frustrated at the moment.

20 SMOKE 05-04-2012 05:17 PM

use a low rpm drill to thread them on,never had an issue.you can see sexton do it on AE videos

kdub 05-04-2012 06:00 PM

The shaft threads are 4-40, just like most screws on the car. You can use a screw to pre-tap the threads. I've never had an issue with getting them installed...last car I built was a B44.1 in Dec.

Dias 05-04-2012 06:02 PM

So load it like a drill bit and slowly turn it in?

Why would I have so many issues doing it by hand?

Dias 05-04-2012 06:05 PM

Ah Kdub, I can do that. I'll test it and update with results.

Kurt04 05-04-2012 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by Dias (Post 10693035)
So load it like a drill bit and slowly turn it in?

Why would I have so many issues doing it by hand?

You could also take a body reamer and put a small countersink in the hole to make it easier to start the thread.


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