Long Island Raceway, NY...Forum
06-22-2008, 08:53 AM
#4726
carl...i ran holeshots all around for 2wd and 4wd but im expecting any tires will work with the syrup traction....im hoping for taper front and bk rears but well see...i ran red directionals and holeshots on my gas truck and mike g and dan r ran the same on there electric trucks and they were glued.
06-22-2008, 09:13 AM
#4727
Hey Rob - NJ chiming in 
First, great news that you guys are looking to go 1/8th outdoors! I think you are in a great spot to make a go of it - and you have the experience. I personally love the smaller tracks - they tend to get maintained better (keeping up one of those 200 x 120 monsters is a lot of work - it's the maintenance that was killing Lester...), they are generally easier on the cars, and they aren't as much about the engine. You can still go plenty fast on a 120' track when the layout is good. Put the money into good dirt, good amentites (drivers stand, pit lane, sound system watering system, etc) - all of which have a huge impact on how the day runs. We all just came back from the RCP race at CRC in Rome last week and it was the quality of how the race was run that most impressed me. I'd always rather race at a well run jewel of a track, than at some sloppily run monster. Also - keep abreast of the going's on in 1/8th electric - it is ready to explode. With the right size tracks indoors and out, you'll now be able to race 1/8th year round, and also run things like Slashes and keep your existing 1/10th racer base. Key is to grow the pie, not just cut the same pie into different slices. Don't let the hardcore 1/8th nitro guys give you advice that will run you into the ground - if you build it, and run it right, they will come anyway...and so will a lot of other people, that don't/won't neccessarily run nitro 1/8th. NO ONE in the NY metro area could afford to build and run a 1/8th nitro only track at a profit - the only way it could work is in a club situation on public park land. To make money you need to appeal to a broader base, and build a facility that can accomodate different needs. It can be done, IMO.
On to the Slash - I bought mine out here yesterday at my LHS - he sold 9 since Wednesday
they are flying out the door everywhere. The local club here is leaning towards running them box stock, with only the receiver/transmitter allowed to be changed (must use stock servo) and any 6 cell ni-mh or 2S hard cased lipo. The batteries are a non-issue IMO with the stock speed control, wires/connectors and motor. The car is so amp limited with that stuff, and traction limited besides, that batteries don't seem to make any difference as long as you stay with everything else stock - that seems to the beauty of the whole thing. JS was the fastest guy with the one you guys tried - no surprise there, and that's what it will come down to - the best guys will still win. 
I personally switched over completely to lipo now - I would hate to have to go and buy some crappy nimh spec cells (probably would need two packs too) and have to get back into some routine of battery maintenance just to have the illusion of parity. I've been running two of those 3200/20C hard cased Yeah packs that Carl posted the link to and they are great - better than the original 3200 hard cased Orions - and I bought them here in the US for $45 a pack. Orion is also coming out with a budget racer hard cased lipo - I think its like a 2500 pack - that is supposed to be dirt cheap, and I'm sure it could go 5 - 6 minutes in a Slash. Anyway, something to think about. I think this class will be a huge shot in the arm to broadening the base of potential racers, electric racing, and non 1/8th scale oriented tracks.
First, great news that you guys are looking to go 1/8th outdoors! I think you are in a great spot to make a go of it - and you have the experience. I personally love the smaller tracks - they tend to get maintained better (keeping up one of those 200 x 120 monsters is a lot of work - it's the maintenance that was killing Lester...), they are generally easier on the cars, and they aren't as much about the engine. You can still go plenty fast on a 120' track when the layout is good. Put the money into good dirt, good amentites (drivers stand, pit lane, sound system watering system, etc) - all of which have a huge impact on how the day runs. We all just came back from the RCP race at CRC in Rome last week and it was the quality of how the race was run that most impressed me. I'd always rather race at a well run jewel of a track, than at some sloppily run monster. Also - keep abreast of the going's on in 1/8th electric - it is ready to explode. With the right size tracks indoors and out, you'll now be able to race 1/8th year round, and also run things like Slashes and keep your existing 1/10th racer base. Key is to grow the pie, not just cut the same pie into different slices. Don't let the hardcore 1/8th nitro guys give you advice that will run you into the ground - if you build it, and run it right, they will come anyway...and so will a lot of other people, that don't/won't neccessarily run nitro 1/8th. NO ONE in the NY metro area could afford to build and run a 1/8th nitro only track at a profit - the only way it could work is in a club situation on public park land. To make money you need to appeal to a broader base, and build a facility that can accomodate different needs. It can be done, IMO.On to the Slash - I bought mine out here yesterday at my LHS - he sold 9 since Wednesday
they are flying out the door everywhere. The local club here is leaning towards running them box stock, with only the receiver/transmitter allowed to be changed (must use stock servo) and any 6 cell ni-mh or 2S hard cased lipo. The batteries are a non-issue IMO with the stock speed control, wires/connectors and motor. The car is so amp limited with that stuff, and traction limited besides, that batteries don't seem to make any difference as long as you stay with everything else stock - that seems to the beauty of the whole thing. JS was the fastest guy with the one you guys tried - no surprise there, and that's what it will come down to - the best guys will still win. I personally switched over completely to lipo now - I would hate to have to go and buy some crappy nimh spec cells (probably would need two packs too) and have to get back into some routine of battery maintenance just to have the illusion of parity. I've been running two of those 3200/20C hard cased Yeah packs that Carl posted the link to and they are great - better than the original 3200 hard cased Orions - and I bought them here in the US for $45 a pack. Orion is also coming out with a budget racer hard cased lipo - I think its like a 2500 pack - that is supposed to be dirt cheap, and I'm sure it could go 5 - 6 minutes in a Slash. Anyway, something to think about. I think this class will be a huge shot in the arm to broadening the base of potential racers, electric racing, and non 1/8th scale oriented tracks.
06-22-2008, 10:27 AM
#4729
Tech Master
Thread Starter
when carl drove his the thing looked fuckin dialed.
06-22-2008, 04:56 PM
#4732
Thanks for the input Gary. Yeah we really are doing this in hopes to get some of the monster truck bashers involved in racing. The 1/8 crew will be totally welcome but not catered too since they are here one day and off to bigger and better the next. We plan on running our usual show, and WILL NOT ACCEPT the yelling and screaming I see at a lot of 1/8 racing. Should be good.
The slash!! Your thinking like a racer. It's going to be a stick pack so what is battery maintenance. Your more likely going to hurt the lipo with out a lipo cut off. The goal of this class is entry level price level field. Lipos raise charger cost plus lipo sack plus explanation that yeah you need this bag incase your battery goes on fire. A little scary for a newbie. This class with spec pack and charger will be UNDER 300 bucks. Also we have seen early on that a stick pack vs a lipo is very noticeable. We will keep testing we are going to try a cheap 7 cell 4200 so you really should be ok with one pack 2 at most. Most peoples charger do all type of packs. Testing will tell
The slash!! Your thinking like a racer. It's going to be a stick pack so what is battery maintenance. Your more likely going to hurt the lipo with out a lipo cut off. The goal of this class is entry level price level field. Lipos raise charger cost plus lipo sack plus explanation that yeah you need this bag incase your battery goes on fire. A little scary for a newbie. This class with spec pack and charger will be UNDER 300 bucks. Also we have seen early on that a stick pack vs a lipo is very noticeable. We will keep testing we are going to try a cheap 7 cell 4200 so you really should be ok with one pack 2 at most. Most peoples charger do all type of packs. Testing will tell
06-22-2008, 05:54 PM
#4733
The class is up to 15 guys already confirmed deposits with more still to come down. If you buy the car at Long Island Raceway it automatically registers you for a number and entry into the points series. If not you will have to pay extra to enter the series.Reserve yours today. If your looking for no wrecnhing and tons of fun this is it. I drove one today and just couldn't put the radio down. And I actually think it will help your racing to teach you to find smooth fast lines.
06-22-2008, 06:26 PM
#4736
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Just pre-ordered my Slash today
Looking forward to racing with everyone as soon as they come in.
Evan - Heres what Jason and I are starting with for setup at Vineland for the xxxCR
Front:
56(red)piston, 27.5wt oil, sliver spring, no limiters, #3 on tower, middle on arm, Link: 3-b w/2 washers, Long VLA, spindles spaced down, arms level
Rear:
57(black)piston, 17.5wt oil, yellow spring, no limiters, #2 on tower, middle on arm, Link: 2-b w/4 washers, Short VLA, hubs center, 2* anti-squat, bones level
Looking forward to racing with everyone as soon as they come in.Evan - Heres what Jason and I are starting with for setup at Vineland for the xxxCR
Front:
56(red)piston, 27.5wt oil, sliver spring, no limiters, #3 on tower, middle on arm, Link: 3-b w/2 washers, Long VLA, spindles spaced down, arms level
Rear:
57(black)piston, 17.5wt oil, yellow spring, no limiters, #2 on tower, middle on arm, Link: 2-b w/4 washers, Short VLA, hubs center, 2* anti-squat, bones level
06-22-2008, 07:07 PM
#4739
Rob - You make an excellent point on the lack of a lipo cutoff, especially for new guys! Stopping and charging while the car is still running good does take awareness and some discipline. For that reason alone, you are right to stick with the nimh's. Good idea on the 7 cell vs 6. I'm down for whatever you come up with for rules. Compared to the impending rise in 30% nitro pricing - if you can even find it - and $4 a gallon gas, whatever you decide for batteries in the Slash class is the least of my problems
Yelling? In 8th scale nitro? I've never heard of such a thing
Sounds good - can't wait to roll nitro LIR style.
Yelling? In 8th scale nitro? I've never heard of such a thing
Sounds good - can't wait to roll nitro LIR style.