R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   RC10B4.1 FT/WC (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/418841-rc10b4-1-ft-wc.html)

racer1812 01-28-2011 09:52 AM


Originally Posted by mattleegee (Post 8561765)
i got a new t4.1 chassis off ebay.... a couple sellers buy the RTR and FT kits and part them out... came out under $30 shipped

Sorry forgot about this option but it's the only way to get one. You can't "order" one as of yet.

rcguy76559 01-28-2011 06:34 PM


Originally Posted by mattleegee (Post 8561765)
i got a new t4.1 chassis off ebay.... a couple sellers buy the RTR and FT kits and part them out... came out under $30 shipped


i did my t4 that way arms tower chassis t plate

Grizzbob 01-28-2011 07:24 PM


Originally Posted by Ed237 (Post 8560572)
I think its been posted before and I measured it and its true: The new B4.1 standard rear arm carrier (the part that adjusts toe in) has more slightly toe-in than the old B4 standard block even though they are both supposed to be 3 degrees.

If you get a B4, I would recommend getting the B4.1 rear block system first and try the 3.0 block. If that doesnt resolve the loose on power feeling, I would suggest the .5 rear hubs.

This is the new part:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-25-335-4

Lastly, you may also want to invest in the ballast weight that fits in front of the transmission.

Actually, I've already added 49 grams of weight back there(I'd read about other doing it a wee or two ago), & have been working on shock mounting angle(& shock damping) & roll center adjustments, as well as playing with the length of the rear camber link(& it definitely IS helping, but I just feel like I need a bit more), so it would seem that toe angle is about the one thing I haven't tried....:sneaky:

racer1812 01-28-2011 11:39 PM


Originally Posted by Grizzbob (Post 8564598)
Actually, I've already added 49 grams of weight back there(I'd read about other doing it a wee or two ago), & have been working on shock mounting angle(& shock damping) & roll center adjustments, as well as playing with the length of the rear camber link(& it definitely IS helping, but I just feel like I need a bit more), so it would seem that toe angle is about the one thing I haven't tried....:sneaky:

The funny thing is that after adding weight rear toe is one of the first things many guys look at.

mdowney 01-28-2011 11:41 PM

I picked up the "B4.1 Rear Ballast Weight" (pn: 7488) but it doesn't say anywhere on the package nor the bar exactly how much weight it is. Does anyone know? Cavalieri's setup calls for 1/2oz in that position (under the rear shock mount) so I'm hoping that's how much the ballast weight weighs.

If any of the AE guys are reading this, you might want to pass it on to whoever does your packaging that they might want to add a detail like this. It's not even mentioned in the little folded-up instruction manual that comes with the part.

Thanks!

UK.hardcore 01-28-2011 11:42 PM

17 gramms. ;)

racer1812 01-28-2011 11:49 PM


Originally Posted by UK.hardcore (Post 8565492)
17 gramms. ;)

correct and 1/2 oz. is 14 grams

mdowney 01-29-2011 01:53 AM

Great. Thanks guys!

UK.hardcore 01-29-2011 02:09 AM

Your welcome.

Do you guys feel the 4.1 plastic is stronger then the old?

Because the way i broke my chassis i think the old wouldn't have broken from a hit like that.

kyle3333 01-29-2011 04:38 AM


Originally Posted by UK.hardcore (Post 8565731)
Your welcome.

Do you guys feel the 4.1 plastic is stronger then the old?

Because the way i broke my chassis i think the old wouldn't have broken from a hit like that.

I think I mentioned this before, but the .1 chassis are weaker. I went through 3 B4.1 chassis in a month. It took a buddy of mine a matter of weeks to break his. All of them broke in the same spot, just behind the front kick-up. I went a year with the old chassis without breaking.

I talked to AE about this and they said that this is common and that their engineers are aware of it.

The only thing I noticed that you have to do to the old chassis, is take a file to the sides of the front kick-up so that the front arms move freely.

UK.hardcore 01-29-2011 05:02 AM

i think the X in the front makes it flex less and break easier.

rcguy76559 01-29-2011 06:45 AM

been running my b4.1 for 2months and haven't broken anything. Also i have to much grip in rear with 3* or rear toe.

Ed237 01-29-2011 08:10 AM

I've heard rumor that there are small air bubbles in the molds and if enough of them are concentracted in the weakest spot it can cause a chasis to break.

For those who have broken chasis, did you notice any?

UK.hardcore 01-29-2011 09:08 AM

Can't tell if it has air bubbles.

might break it somewhere else to see.:sneaky:

salvaticustomjs 01-29-2011 09:50 PM

Hey guys, looking for ideas for gearing in my new FTB4.1 and FTT4.1
I am running a Tekin RS w/ boost and a 17.5, 5000mah battery
I was thinking of starting at 26/75, is this a good starting point?


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:52 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.