Obviously you want the car ready for the track, so have the battery pack in, tires on, etc. Set the ride height first, as this dictates the camber of the wheels. It depends on your track, but a typical ride height would be 24mm to 25mm both front and rear. If you don't have a ride height gauge, make the front arms level and the dog bones in the rear level, this should be a good starting point. Ride height adjustments are made by moving the shock collars up or down. Make sure you drop the car at from at least 6" in the air, before you make any adjustments. Every time you make an adjustment drop the car again to see where you are at.

With the ride height set, use either the included camber gauge or the RPM camber gauge to set the camber. Again, it depends on your track, but a good starting point would be -1* of camber all the way around. Just like setting the ride height you will want to lift the car at least 6" and drop it in between adjustments. I turn the radio and the car on for camber adjustments to keep the front wheels straight.

Hope this helps.

So with a non boosted setting it looks like everyone running a 72 spur

My local indoor clay track does not allow boost in any stock classes. I'm running 69/33(b4.1) and still coming off at no more that 105 degrees. Doing this with a Ballistic motor and Tekin in blinky mode.

2 weeks ago the announcer was calling me out in first round saying I prolly had it boosted...until after the round I showed him the blinks. So I'd say my setup is pretty fast.

Where did you get a 69t spur?

A Main a few months back.

Kimbrough makes the 69t spur. Part # 302

I will have to check that out. I assume the teeth barely get past the slipper pads.

You always want a little bit of play for free movement. The shock will bind if the upper nut is too tight, or the nut or a washer hits the shock cap through the shocks range of motion.

Ok, today I tested a 72 /30 with an epic duo2 17.5

I first notice smoother ,quicker acceleration out of the turns. I then preceded to try the jumps and I probably almost doubled my hangtime!lol I felt as if the car finally came alive and handled my backyard track with more precision. I think I found my combo. Totally different car.........The balance even slightly improved. I felt more stable on and off the jumps...

i used to run around 75/27 in truck and 69:39 in buggy, with max timing on a duo2 motor back in the no boost days... i'd adjust the pinion size up/down to keep motor temps near 160-170F.

Anyone running the Paul Wynn setup? I am running the Cav setup on my T4.1 with pretty good success, but am curious about Wynn's.

AWESOME - a big help thanks Kyle! Got my first buggy race this weekend (apparently these things handle a bit different to the T4) so wanting to get some practice in before then..

Will it fit a T4.1?

If anyone has a nice painted T4.1 body for sale let me know.

Thanks,

John

Bodies Are the same t4->t4.1 and B4-> B4.1 the only one that actually changed chassis shape is the B44.1

Member RayDog has one for sale.