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Old 02-23-2012, 02:10 PM
  #11866  
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Originally Posted by dominick i.
if you want to test the strength of the caster blocks, install the aluminum servo savers like avid. i never broke as many front a arms and caster blocks before in one weekend.
First of all that is surely not AVID's fault by any means!! I have been running them for a month and have not broke a thing!! Learn to drive before you try to bash a great company that have answered the real racers call for a split steering bellcrank!!!!
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:19 PM
  #11867  
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Originally Posted by Marten

On another note: has somebody used RcScrewz metric screw kit?
Any need for recutting the threads in metal parts? Are you happy with it?

Also, when i raced T4 some years ago i used to brake rear chassis plate real often.
I`m getting back to offroad and 2wd , have worlds editon on the way and wanted to know if this part has been improved?
I wouldn't bother with converting to metric. All the alloy parts would need to be re threaded, plus the bearings, axles, and wheel nuts would still be standard.
Use the regular shank rod ends. The long shanks are typically used on Losi vehicles.
I've only cracked one B4/T4 rear chassis plate. Typically I replace the part once a season just from general wear.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:26 PM
  #11868  
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague
I wouldn't bother with converting to metric. All the alloy parts would need to be re threaded, plus the bearings, axles, and wheel nuts would still be standard.
Use the regular shank rod ends. The long shanks are typically used on Losi vehicles.
I've only cracked one B4/T4 rear chassis plate. Typically I replace the part once a season just from general wear.
Actually i think rcscrews keeps thread pitch the same, but changes the heads to metric. I used them on my 8ight it was pretty sweet

I got to say i am a fan of them, but haven't had enough races on them to say how strong they are.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:31 PM
  #11869  
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It came out of the scrap bin at work. We have a ton of it that gets recycled.

I will let u know how it goes. It's gonna be a totally different buggy. I am going from a +8 ft with standard springs to the mod chassis with BB's. Hopefully it improves in all aspects.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:22 PM
  #11870  
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Originally Posted by PrestonG
Actually i think rcscrews keeps thread pitch the same, but changes the heads to metric. I used them on my 8ight it was pretty sweet

I got to say i am a fan of them, but haven't had enough races on them to say how strong they are.
From the RC Screwz Website.

General Metric Conversion Screw Installation & Notes: When converting from standard threads to metric thread.....metal parts must be re-tapped for metric threads. All wheels nuts will remain standard thread in our kits for axles.

They also mention the use of Phillips head screws for the smaller 2mm screws. Not really a step I would want to take.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:40 PM
  #11871  
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague
From the RC Screwz Website.

General Metric Conversion Screw Installation & Notes: When converting from standard threads to metric thread.....metal parts must be re-tapped for metric threads. All wheels nuts will remain standard thread in our kits for axles.

They also mention the use of Phillips head screws for the smaller 2mm screws. Not really a step I would want to take.
That is a step I do not want to take.
I have no problem with the current screws. Not sure what all the talk is about for the huge reason to change it. I do not think a different thread pitch on a screw is going to make anything faster
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:04 PM
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Not true. You gain at least 1 tenth on the track for every blue screw you have on your car. 2 tenths if you use a blue counter sink washer. 3 tenths if you combine them both



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Old 02-23-2012, 04:07 PM
  #11873  
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About the same amount of time you will save with BB springs!!
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Not true. You gain at least 1 tenth on the track for every blue screw you have on your car. 2 tenths if you use a blue counter sink washer. 3 tenths if you combine them both



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Old 02-23-2012, 04:52 PM
  #11875  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
About the same amount of time you will save with BB springs!!
truer words have never been spoken.
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:56 PM
  #11876  
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i have been running the rtr b4.1 for a year and a half.......but today-


the b4.1 worlds edition showed up beaming like the red ryder from the Christmas story.........

just wanted to tell someone, my wife doesnt seem to undersand by the weird looks i am getting from her
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:02 PM
  #11877  
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Hey guys i have some of my tires for sale. Selling because running all hex now, front and rear.

JC front barcodes blue on white rims 80%- $10
AKA rear Rebars green on white rims 99%-$20 (JC foam)
JC rear double dees green on white rims 90%- $15
Losi BK Bar rear in pink compound on yellow rim 99%- $15
Losi Taper Pin front in pink compound on yellow rim 99%- 15
JC Rips front in green compound on white rims 95%- 15
JC flip outs rear in green compound on white rims 85%- 15

All rear wheel have the pin and all front wheels have the bearing hole. Let me know! Can combine front and rear for a discount. If you are interested i can send pictures.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:23 PM
  #11878  
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I'm waiting for the AE BB to come out..Prototypes have been spotted at the local track and they look awesome. some tweaking left to be done but should be a great addition/
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:45 PM
  #11879  
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
First of all that is surely not AVID's fault by any means!! I have been running them for a month and have not broke a thing!! Learn to drive before you try to bash a great company that have answered the real racers call for a split steering bellcrank!!!!
my apoligies.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:01 PM
  #11880  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Matt, for I guess higher C would be more betta for 17.5, I only race mod have not race stock for over 6 years ....
After last weekend i think you should return to stock
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