RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#6706
Tech Addict
M2C ADJUSTABLE REAR TOE BLOCK SYSTEM FOR SCT E
opps wrong thread, but we are working on a system like this for the rc10.
Last edited by m2cracing; 10-19-2011 at 07:34 AM.
#6707
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
M2C RACING IS PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE THE RELEASE OF OUR NEW REAR TOE
BLOCK SYSTEM FOR THE SCT E 4X4 TRUCK
Toe blocks are made with 7075 aluminum for maximuim strength and anodized black.
The hinge pins are made with 01 hardened tool steel and tapered to allow the
hinge pins and arms to rotate togather in the delrin bushing. this is a duel style system meaning that the arms can rotate around the pin as well as the pin rotating in the bushing. what this does is that if you do bend a hinge pin,it will most likely bend in the smallest section of the pin. this area is not in the bushing or the arm, so it will still allow the arm to work properly and not bind.
the hinge pins are 4mm dia so you will have to drill out the arm with the supplied drill.
the toe blocks are designed to use the m2c racing delrin bushing which has
proven to last way longer than the stock injection molded plastic that most
manufactors use.(3900 series inserts)
the rear toe block is set at stock settings and uses the 1 dot insert(0) degree
insert.
included in the insert packet is:
(4) 1 dot (0) inserts
(4) 2 dot (1) offset inserts
(4) 3 dot (2) offset inserts
(4) 1/4 degree offset inserts
(4) 1/2 degree offset inserts
This give you a total adjustment range of 1 to 5 degrees toe
with fine adjustment of 1 degree either direction from the stock settings
This is where 95 % of all system operate:
The Antisquat block also uses the same inserts and allows you 1 to 5 degrees
of adjustment.
Now to the good part, the Rear toe block (D) block has been machined to allow you to lengthen the wheel base by 1/8 inch to fit different track conditions with the use of 1/16 x 4mm id delrin spacers.
this will allow you to run the stock settings or 1/8 inch longer simply by moving the bushings.
Caution:: this may not be a legal lenth at ROAR races with the arms moved
back.
part no. m2c7100
replacement hinge pins m2c1701
replacement bushings are 3900 series and are sold seperately in packs of 4.
www.m2cracing.com
#6708
Tech Addict
SERRATED WHEEL NUTS FOR THE SCT E
OPPS wrong thread
#6709
Tech Addict
SERRATED WHEEL NUT FOR THE ASSOCIATED RC10 AND LOSI SCT E
M2C RACING IS PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE THE RELEASE OF OUR STEEL SERRATED AXLE NUTS for the losi SCT E AND THE ASSOCIATE RC10
I really hate it when I am racing and the nylock nut on my truck wears out and backs off and the wheel goes faster down the strait away then the truck.
this of course is a common problem with this type of wheel retention systm.
I have found a simple solution for this.
These wheel nuts really grip hard and so far we have not had any more problems with the tires finishing the race without the truck.
part no. 7103
www.m2cracing.com
#6710
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,488
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
IF these nuts are metric you're still in the wrong thread buddy..
#6711
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Lunsford
It appears folks are trying out different rod ends (RPM, Losi, etc).
Has anyone tried the following (recently released) Lunsford Ti turnbuckle/rod end combo?
How are the ball ends? Turnbuckles bend/break easy? It appears the 'super duty' are a bit thicker (3.5mm vs 3mm).
The blue on my AE rods are fading, and I think I might try a new look.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Super duty
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Has anyone tried the following (recently released) Lunsford Ti turnbuckle/rod end combo?
How are the ball ends? Turnbuckles bend/break easy? It appears the 'super duty' are a bit thicker (3.5mm vs 3mm).
The blue on my AE rods are fading, and I think I might try a new look.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Super duty
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
#6712
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
It appears folks are trying out different rod ends (RPM, Losi, etc).
Has anyone tried the following (recently released) Lunsford Ti turnbuckle/rod end combo?
How are the ball ends? Turnbuckles bend/break easy? It appears the 'super duty' are a bit thicker (3.5mm vs 3mm).
The blue on my AE rods are fading, and I think I might try a new look.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Super duty
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Has anyone tried the following (recently released) Lunsford Ti turnbuckle/rod end combo?
How are the ball ends? Turnbuckles bend/break easy? It appears the 'super duty' are a bit thicker (3.5mm vs 3mm).
The blue on my AE rods are fading, and I think I might try a new look.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
Super duty
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Ball-Cups-6
#6714
#6715
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I use the Lunsford 2 1/4 " turnbuckles on the front and rear camber links, and 2 3/8" ones for the steering with the stock black AE ball cups. The rods "bury" into the stock cups with no threads showing and therefore they are stronger, and they NEVER pop off either. Losi ball cups belong on Losi cars...RPM ball cups should remain on the peg board at the hobby shops.
#6717
Cpt , Been waiting for years for a Lunsford T shirt I still don't have....
So I can't use those cups bilsrter likes .......
So I can't use those cups bilsrter likes .......
#6718
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,488
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Had the super duty ones (grey rod ends) on one of my SCT's. They thread on the TB REALLY hard, to the point that the cup would pop off the ball when I would try to adjust them. Using a wax or some type of lube might have helped with the issue. They also seemed to pop off easier after the first time. RPMs tend to be removed/popped off a few times before they get loose..IMO
#6719
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Hey guys, I'm gonna install the +8 (ASC9636) chassis on Friday and would like some guidance on initial setup. I'm currently running this setup, except I moved the rear camber link from the D hole to the C hole in the rear hub to fix an on power push issue.
I'd like to keep it the same but was wondering what people had to do when they added 8mm to their chassis.
I'd like to keep it the same but was wondering what people had to do when they added 8mm to their chassis.