RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-05-2011, 08:15 PM
#6317
Suspended
It can't give more up travel unless either the shock body is shorter or the shock tower is taller, and on the same vehicle it would actually limit the up travel. Otherwise a longer shock shaft will only give more down travel or droop.
10-06-2011, 12:08 AM
#6319
Def wanna glue the servo saver. for a couple reason 1 your servo isprob to fast or has to much power for it to begin with even with the hd spring. 2 when running the car alot od slop develops and the play actually gives enough give for servo saftey.. 3.. a BIG one just the direct feel of the input to the rack.. any sort of stress it making it move and your not getting the right imput! also akes it very inconsistant in corners...
heres the steps..
1 follow the book like you would do bye installing it regularly.. then take the assembley apart again.. and using a hig quality glue run a small beed along the servo savor "v"parts.. then put the shims and sping like normal but donot tighten the spring all the way down just set it normal... doing so will make it bind.. thats pretty much it..
heres the steps..
1 follow the book like you would do bye installing it regularly.. then take the assembley apart again.. and using a hig quality glue run a small beed along the servo savor "v"parts.. then put the shims and sping like normal but donot tighten the spring all the way down just set it normal... doing so will make it bind.. thats pretty much it..
Thanks for the feedback. I'll try the stock brace next time I'm at the track but I've been running on what I could call high traction (CRCRC & RC Factory). There is just something wrong with the car, I can make big swings at the setup and it just doesn't change much. Example went from zero washers to 3 under rear link Saturday just to try to feel a major change. It's twitchy and loose; the front end will never release coming on power. I'm going through the car this week, I'm hoping I find something cracked. I read on Opple with someone having a similar symptom and people recommended gluing the servo saver. Any thoughts on this? I have been running the car with the heavy servo saver.
The bad thing is I'm 2.5 hours drive from a track. Makes it hard to find the cause of stuff like this.
The bad thing is I'm 2.5 hours drive from a track. Makes it hard to find the cause of stuff like this.
10-06-2011, 04:25 AM
#6320
Thanks everyone that provided feedback regarding the servo saver. It will be glued before I make it to the track next time.
10-06-2011, 05:54 AM
#6321
There is no real performance difference, but the front rod end is stronger (when they were wound out, the rod end would sometimes pull off the rod in a hard crash).
Only real time when you would consider the shorter shaft is when using the inner hole on the front arm as you dont need to use so many washers (typically 4 with the longer shaft) - but I just use the extra washers.
ray
10-06-2011, 06:40 AM
#6322
If the shaft is longer and the piston goes up into the body and cap another mm or two, then isnt' that more up travel?
10-06-2011, 06:43 AM
#6323
10-06-2011, 08:40 AM
#6324
Ok guys I got a quick question. I apologize, in advance, if it has been asked already. On Cavalieri's setup from the Worlds, he has marked that the rear #2 piston is drilled with a #55. Does he mean that he drilled one or two additional #55 holes? 
10-06-2011, 08:45 AM
#6325
Suspended
10-06-2011, 08:47 AM
#6326
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IIRC, it means you drill the existing holes out with the #55, no additional holes are drilled.
10-06-2011, 08:53 AM
#6328
Anyone have an indoor carpet setup for a B4.1?
Thanks.
Thanks.
10-06-2011, 09:01 AM
#6329
Do this to help the shock make more pack , hand drilled hole is just a bit smaller than the production piston ...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 10-06-2011 at 09:31 AM.
10-06-2011, 09:03 AM
#6330