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Old 10-16-2010 | 01:57 PM
  #556  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Sorry if this was cover, maybe missed it. Anybody have issues with slop in the new aluminum rear hubs? The combinaton of all those metal parts having to have tolerances to fit together, axle, bearing, and hub, seem to make a sloppy unit. They look nice but I'm not overly impressed to be honest. I could CA the bearings in to remove some slop but that would be PIA for maintenance.
Nothing on this issue?? I'm suprised.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 02:10 PM
  #557  
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Mine has some slop there but it's the hinge pin and spacer.

i'll just run it and see.

i wouldn't glue the bearings in, it will be a pita to remove.

and then it may aswell no longer run as free.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 04:58 PM
  #558  
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never have broken a ball cup in 20+yrs. broken about everything else.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 05:45 PM
  #559  
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prolly a known item by now but any1 scoopin up a 4.1 chassis off ebay to freshen up their b4 needs to know that the rear pivot block (losi verbage i know) is different and has different p# from old part. the chassis and thus the block have radius edges where as old b4 parts have square edges. old block will not work on new chassis, new block might work on old chassis, but best to buy old block for time being. just heads up.

R
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Old 10-16-2010 | 06:14 PM
  #560  
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Only issue I've had were the ball-cups, replaced w/ RPM and haven't had a problem since.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:08 PM
  #561  
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti
prolly a known item by now but any1 scoopin up a 4.1 chassis off ebay to freshen up their b4 needs to know that the rear pivot block (losi verbage i know) is different and has different p# from old part. the chassis and thus the block have radius edges where as old b4 parts have square edges. old block will not work on new chassis, new block might work on old chassis, but best to buy old block for time being. just heads up.

R
holy crap I've been AE for 20 years and don't know what you mean when you say pivot block?
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:11 PM
  #562  
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore
Mine has some slop there but it's the hinge pin and spacer.

i'll just run it and see.

i wouldn't glue the bearings in, it will be a pita to remove.

and then it may aswell no longer run as free.
Mine's not in the hinge pins, it's all in the hub assembly..I'll talk to Ryan about it at Trackside in Dec.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:37 PM
  #563  
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What about this combo to put in my new b4.1? Anyone use this combo?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZMX2&P=7

seems like a good price, just not sure how good the esc is going to be
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:42 PM
  #564  
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This is the combo that cones in the RTR.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
This is the combo that cones in the RTR.
oh okay....so Reedy 3900k is good, but I think i want to go with a different speedo
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:50 PM
  #566  
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If your lookng to bash, then it could be a good combo. If your wanting to get into racing, then a different combo will be needed.
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:56 PM
  #567  
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Originally Posted by JayBuc
What about this combo to put in my new b4.1? Anyone use this combo?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZMX2&P=7

seems like a good price, just not sure how good the esc is going to be
I'm guessing you have a Factory Team 4.1? You would be disgracing every AE fan by putting that .....hmmm...crap in a FT kit, PLEASE don't do it. Buy something better, it really is crap....
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Old 10-16-2010 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
If your lookng to bash, then it could be a good combo. If your wanting to get into racing, then a different combo will be needed.
How are the Tekin R1 pro speedos? Have you used them?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Speed-Control
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Old 10-16-2010 | 08:00 PM
  #569  
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3300kv in RTR not the 3900kv

Respectably same ESC

You should look at a sensored setup like Tekin RS/PRO, Mamba Max Pro, LRP TC or SS
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Old 10-16-2010 | 08:02 PM
  #570  
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The Ae and the Tekin R1 are sensorless, why do you want a sensorless system and what are you using it for, bashing or racing? You can get a sensored RS for 5 bucks more than the R1.....
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