Why wouldn't you be able to, they aren't big bore shocks...:confused::weird:

If Associated has made new ones, something could be different.

Why would they make a new shock that you have to get a new spring for???:weird::rolleyes:

They use the same pistons, springs, caps, and thread collars. The only difference is they have the lower cap now.

Ah, thanks for the info.

B4.1
 

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...arrier.600.jpg I hate this pin set-up. I wish they would have changed this.:confused:

Why does associated have such inconsistent anodizing?

All the aluminum parts are a slightly different shade of blue? I understand the turnbuckles being a little different because they are titanium, but question the different blues on the other parts....always seemed odd since other companies (Kyosho, Yokomo, Hotbodies, etc) have pretty consistent anodizing.

Does it come back to being made in China vs Japan?

#1 the pieces could be made at different vendors, #2 quality control hasn't been set tight enough to reject the parts outside of the boundary samples (sample parts used to designate the acceptable range of color shade) assuming they have them. It is pretty difficult for a smaller part vendors to produce anodizing in very consistent shades and it is price driven so the lowest bidder gets to make the parts.

It's been the same way with AE's shock bodies for years.

I kinda agree...having the QC setup would have been perfect. The Kyosho RT5 should have been the benchmark...QC in the front and rear, so you only need one type of wheel for your pit box. I guess you could always buy the QC rear setup and Cameron Kellog's conversion for the front. But that would tack on another $70-80, which would in turn buy you 10 pairs of wheels.

Blue is one of the hardest colors to consistently reproduce when anodizing aluminum (I would have to say that green is #2). I've seen the same variance in hues on blue Yokomo parts, as well.:nod:

I totally agree...my Yokomo GT4 has varying hues of blue. I don't know how anodizing actually works, but you would think that they would have mastered the process by now.

Black anodizing still looks the best to me (like on the Losi 2.0 EU edition).

http://www.modelflight.com.au/team_l..._roller_12.jpg

I will check but I think you can use the rear hubs on this if you just cut the threads off. Now that AE changed there rear cv's their kit will not work on the rear, unless they put out a new kit. I am running AE stuff again so I will come up with a easy fix for the rear. My front hubs will fit right on the new truck.(Thanks AE for not putting me out of business :lol:)

I have the new SC truck that has the new cv's so I will see what I can come up with for a rear kit. I feel the AE quick change is the best one out even better than Kyosho's. They lock in without messing with a hex and my front kit stays pretty slop free which Kyosho's is not. If your a long term AE fan then the quick change wheels front and back is the best when tires are costing what they do. I think J-concepts is selling their quick change wheels right now for 10.00 for 4, what a deal!!!

I will also have a bolt on front axle for the SC10 soon. It still uses the nut to hold the wheel on but bolts to the steering block. This helps keep the axle tight on the steering block and not get sloppy there too. You won't loose e-clips either. I don't really like the new axles that use the bolt on the outside too; I guess I am too old school and like a nut out there.

:tire: Keep on racing. :D

^^^ - Thanks for that, Cameron. Let us know when you have the fix for the rear of the T4.1 FT.

I have the new yokomo bmax factory team and all the blue is pretty darn close, if not exact (and there is a lot of alloy on that thing!). Even the blue anodizing on my BJ4 W.E. is pretty much an exact match.

On the B44 I had, the front casters, servo mounts, and rear wing mount were a darker blue. The center diff/motor mounts and front shock tower brace were a lighter blue.

Anyway, I don't see the variance in other brands...so maybe Associated just has different vendors doing different parts.

i have a 150mm length hyperion battery, will it fit in a b4.1 battery tray?