RC10B4.1 FT/WC
some like it a little tighter and some looser, but that is the guide line many use.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Well finally got Big Bores for my sons B4.1 hope the will help him out on the BIG 1/8 scale track we run on its ruff at places and can be very loose too. Ive heard they will make it better. I got 35 oil in front and 30 in rear with stock Big bore setup for everything else. he was running 40F 35R with the small bore shocks seemed to help when I changed it from the 35f 30r made it more stable.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Im running the org shocks on my b4.1, really dont like the fact that air mixes with them and they loose consistency. Is there any direct drop in shocks that are sealed like 1/8th scales?
if you wanna try non AE shocks. the Oshkosh shock are really good. I had them on my rb6 and they were like butta. But pricey.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Found out tsr makes diagrams for the 10mm shocks, think ima try thoughs out and see how i like them
i thought you wanted good shocks, lol
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
you can make the tlr ones work. they have the new shocks coming out, so I would wait. I know some xfactory guys use the tlr shocks
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Hideeho
I run losi bb shocks on my b44 & AE bb's on my b4. The bladders on the losi shocks do not work right, at least I couldn't get them to work right. Also the regular seals for emulsion shocks is a SERIOUS pain. The best setup I've found is to use an AE v2 top seal &run then as emulsions. The stock AE shocks work well up, but not as much in the bottom (v2's are worse). All that can be fixed with seals from http://www.factoryone-rc.com/ (the v2's are in stock, but the bb's are b/o ). Even w/o the factory1 bushings, liberal use of green slime goes a long way toward fixing it.
I run losi bb shocks on my b44 & AE bb's on my b4. The bladders on the losi shocks do not work right, at least I couldn't get them to work right. Also the regular seals for emulsion shocks is a SERIOUS pain. The best setup I've found is to use an AE v2 top seal &run then as emulsions. The stock AE shocks work well up, but not as much in the bottom (v2's are worse). All that can be fixed with seals from http://www.factoryone-rc.com/ (the v2's are in stock, but the bb's are b/o ). Even w/o the factory1 bushings, liberal use of green slime goes a long way toward fixing it.
you really liked the F1 bushings in the BB?
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Hideeho
I don't have any yet. I've had other things to buy over the last month or 2 since they came out for the bb's (esc etc) & now that I can afford them he is out of stock. As soon as he gets them back in stock I am ordering a set for bb's & a set for v2's (setting up an sc10 with them). Every single review & comment about them has been positive (something I can't say about any other product in rc), so I feel pretty confident in recommending them.
p.s. I've heard a rumor he is working on some for losi shocks.
I don't have any yet. I've had other things to buy over the last month or 2 since they came out for the bb's (esc etc) & now that I can afford them he is out of stock. As soon as he gets them back in stock I am ordering a set for bb's & a set for v2's (setting up an sc10 with them). Every single review & comment about them has been positive (something I can't say about any other product in rc), so I feel pretty confident in recommending them.
p.s. I've heard a rumor he is working on some for losi shocks.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
I've been running the factory one bushings and o-rings in my 4.2 and 10.2 for over a month now and couldn't be more disappointed or unimpressed. They leak like sieves even with liberal use of green slime. This weekend I will be going back to the trouble free standard AE setup on both cars.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
finally got a chance to due a rebuild on my B4.X
Added in the RPM A-arms.
First impression is that they are pretty rigid considering they are from RPM. reminds me of how the SC10 4x4 RPM a-arms are.
They are also pretty beefy, which is to be expected:
Thickness of the bulkheads are similar, with the RPM one not using the alloy hingepin brace.
Weight, the RPM stuff is heavier:
Here are pics of the a-arms mounted:
The part that I don't like are the screws used to retain the hingepins:
Considering the car uses all hex screws, it would have made sence to use a hex screw.
Other than that, I think these should really help with durability on the front end, and to boot it seems like there is less slop than what I remember on building new Bulkhead to a-arm assembly.
Added in the RPM A-arms.
First impression is that they are pretty rigid considering they are from RPM. reminds me of how the SC10 4x4 RPM a-arms are.
They are also pretty beefy, which is to be expected:
Thickness of the bulkheads are similar, with the RPM one not using the alloy hingepin brace.
Weight, the RPM stuff is heavier:
Here are pics of the a-arms mounted:
The part that I don't like are the screws used to retain the hingepins:
Considering the car uses all hex screws, it would have made sence to use a hex screw.
Other than that, I think these should really help with durability on the front end, and to boot it seems like there is less slop than what I remember on building new Bulkhead to a-arm assembly.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
That front bumper looks good is that even legal