Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

Try turning down the throttle epa so it isn't ruining servos when he hits the wall.

Maybe I should listen to my own advice and maybe I won't hit the wall as much. Here comes Bob or John to say that is a good idea.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

I am running the shorty, I like it. I feel that you are able to drive it a lot more aggressive. The only problem I have ran into is that you kinda find yourself chasing a setup because traction can change a lot with it. The only other downfall I have felt is it can be inconsistent. Last time at the track I switched back to try the full pack to feel the difference and here is what I found with the full pack:

better traction
feels more planted
not as plush (and harder to jump)

If I was running on a high bite traction I think it would be a lot better, but for tracks like mine it just depends on the conditions.


Ya, I have the EXI, and the solar are based off that and they are better supposibly better so yes they are good servos.

josephc

iTrader: (2)

is that a good servo i been buying the stock one for 45 dollers that one 7 dollers

Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

If I was buying a servo for someone just starting out that would be one of my choices. For 7 dollars it's hard to beat and you could buy more than one just for back ups.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I run one in my buggy. I have had some pretty solid crashes and it is fine. it is way better than rtr one. If you are breaking $45 dollar servos you might need to properly setup the servo. most servos in that price range should be MG servos. I think hitec has a couple in that range and they are solid. The rtr servo is like $18, so I assume your not buying that one. The solar 770 is perfect for someone starting out. Cheap and pretty good. like they said buy an extra if you are worried, its only $15 dollars.

This servo.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d770.html

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Too funny

R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

I don't recall Durango ever having a car with laydown shock (even in their early no selling any of their vehicles days). I could be mistaken though. On that same note I do own one of the 2003 Mark Pavidis edition Durango 4wd buggies. Durango only ever made 15 of those cars and I have one! I bought it off some guy on rctech for like $150.

What is your reasoning behind running this 13.5? Is it for a spec class? If so can you run timing? Or are you running it in mod?

If it is a spec class with no timing you need to be geared so the motor is coming off the track at 150°. Anything less than that and you are leaving power on the table. If that is the case, play with motor timing to move the power band more timing moves the power towards top end.

If it is a spec class that allows esc timing you will need it to be competitive.

If it is open class and you are just running the 13.5 instead of your 8.5 because you already had the 13.5 then you need to either add timing (if that is an option on your esc), or gear up to get the most out of the motor. If you are just going to end up getting a new motor you might as well get a 10.5 instead of another 13.5. It is much better to run a little bit faster motor and gear it conservatively than to try and push the limits of a slower motor. Spec racing is one thing; if everyone is limited by the size of motor then you have to push it to be competitive.

The couple things you can do to your 13.5 will get a bit more out of it. If your 8.5 is too much for you even with a very conservative setup, and the 13.5 pushed to its limits is still not enough, a 10.5 should be perfect. Good on you by the way for manning up and motoring down. Way too many people put too much motor in their car and just crash a bunch. Get the slower motor figured out and focus on completing races without a single marshal. Then maybe back to the 8.5.

One thing you can do is loosen the servo saver. When I was that age and my dad was teaching me to drive we would set up little tracks in the yard, or even a single jump on the living room. When I crashed I would have to pass the controller to my dad for his turn. When he crashed it was my turn. This teaches him to be very careful about how he drives, and he will crash much much less. Also let him run his car as much as he can, wherever he can. At this point, wheel time is the most important thing. You are lucky though. Back when I was a kid there was not cheap lipo batteries which can be at your door in a couple days at a couple mouse clicks. Get a few lipo batteries and a good charger and you can easily get a few hours of run time a day. When I was a kid I had 1200MAH NICAD batteries that took 45 minutes to charge, and yielded 4 minutes of run time. Now for $150 you can have a charger and enough batteries to run non-stop. Couple that with brushless, and you can pretty much focus on his driving, and teaching him how to keep his car in good mechanical order.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

ah, the sanyo 1200 mah nicad days......... I dont miss those at all.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am not sure I will ever be faster with a mod motor. I have always been and will always be faster with a stock unless it oval, lol. But, todays 13.5 is like some of the old school mod motors. It is definitely not like the 27 turn brushed. maybe like a 15 turn old school. For my skill, the 10.5 is the best motor for me. I can boost it a little if I need more guts, but in general, it is great.

Your gearing is still too low and you never mentioned motor timing.

dezertranger96

iTrader: (24)

I need some help with my lrp x-12 in my b4.1wc im geared at 35/72 with 4 dot timing, and i like the power, but it is very n controlable on some parts of the track, i do have a decent radio so i can tune down epas, but need all the throttle input on the tripple to clear it.

also how hot can this motor run? i heard it was 210 but idk, right now i am at 160-170

Vegatron75

iTrader: (4)

Right on , will do.

30/69 = 5.98
31/69 = 5.78

I mostly ran 32/75 which is 6.09, the motor timing was maxed at 50 degrees.


33/69=5.43 FDR. That's the lowest I've seen so far. I saw the kv for the d3.5 17.5 motor was pretty high, something like 3600kv. So I figured the 13.5 would be up there as well. Thanks for the info.

Just looked, the D3.5 13.5, the maxzilla version, has 4600kv. That's more than the 8.5t hobbywing, which is 4000kv.

http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....product_id=398



The 13.5 is the spec class I want to run at the upcoming trophy race. Normally I mess around in mod w/ the 8.5. 4x4SC is my main class and the buggy is just for fun and to see where I rank w/ the "fast" dudes at the track. I'm normally the quickest scrub.

Yeah, no timing in the esc. The motor, thunder power 13.5 z3r, had the max 50 degrees of timing in it. THe track has a long bermed up straight and a triple that comes w/ a short run up. So i need a little top end and torque, but I'd take making the triple everytime and give up the top end, if I could choose.

It looks like I need more gear. So I'll give that a try and see what happens. I have a pretty ho-hum style, I dont' take alot of chances and normally just try and keep it moving forward. I don't like working on the cars a whole bunch and I don't like spending money on replacement parts.

I'm lucky enough to get to watch some pretty fast dudes at my local track. The local track, Fastlane Raceway in Blue Springs Mo., is having a winter points series, I've ran the the first 4 of six races so far, which I think has me leading. I'll try and post a shot of the sheet.

Anyway, thanks for the help...

Here's a video of the tracks current layout.

http://youtu.be/TxLdCDcwqyA

R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

That track really reminds me of one of my home tracks prior to moving to where I live now. That being said I would turn down the timing on your motor to shift the power back down to the bottom end. Then gear the motor to come off at 150° I would start with the timing back at the stock setting, then go from there. Less timing means you can pull a taller gear. If you want more bottom end, lower the timing more and gear it up even more. Basically use the timing to adjust where the motor makes power, and just gear the motor to come off at 150°, because if it is making the heat, it is making the power.

Fatmatty

iTrader: (4)

i run 35/69 no problems with 30'C Ambient temp stock spec class, seems us aussies gear our cars allot more than over there!!!!!!

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Yes, it's good for your 7 year old, it actually has race type specs. I'm curious, are you setting your EPA for your steering before he drives off?

R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

I presume you are talking about a 17.5? The last time I ran a 17.5 I was geared 36/69. Even higher than you Aussies. The sweet spot for a 17.5 is the same anywhere in the world. What you fail to realize is that we have been talking about a 13.5, not a 17.5, hence the suggested gearing. Now if you are running 35/69 with a 13.5, I have to ask how?