RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-14-2012, 05:49 PM
Trailing axles, inlines are a bit aggressive.
10-14-2012, 07:26 PM
10-14-2012, 07:29 PM
When setting toe and camber, which should be done first or does it not matter?
Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:
Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.
Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:
Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.
Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
10-14-2012, 07:34 PM
When setting toe and camber, which should be done first or does it not matter?
Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:
Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.
Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:
Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.
Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
10-14-2012, 07:45 PM
10-14-2012, 08:02 PM
For anyone not following the separate big bore thread, I found a way to keep the shock/link from rubbing and get the rear shock straight up and down.
-------------------------
I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
-------------------------
I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
10-14-2012, 08:04 PM
10-14-2012, 08:14 PM
Toe should always be adjusted last. Not sure on 13.5 gearing, and having the same FDR with different size spurs can change how the motor performs. Best thing is to play around with it and make sure you don't over heat your motor.
WHAT!, theres a big bore seperate thread? Crimy, i should look through all the current threads instead of sticking to my subscribed ones lol.
WHAT!, theres a big bore seperate thread? Crimy, i should look through all the current threads instead of sticking to my subscribed ones lol.
10-14-2012, 08:21 PM
10-14-2012, 11:22 PM
I'm sure someone has posted it, and I did try to search for it..... but....
Does anyone have a parts list for a complete replacement screw kit for b4.1FTWC
-OR-
At least the lower chassis screws? Thanks in advance!
Does anyone have a parts list for a complete replacement screw kit for b4.1FTWC
-OR-
At least the lower chassis screws? Thanks in advance!
10-15-2012, 04:55 AM
Not sure if he's doing it anymore or not but EvanAZ was selling AE screw kits to raise money for cars for kids at his local track. Try hittin' him up. He's a good fella.
10-15-2012, 06:31 AM
check the instruction manual , all of the screws are listed .
10-15-2012, 07:36 AM
For anyone not following the separate big bore thread, I found a way to keep the shock/link from rubbing and get the rear shock straight up and down.
-------------------------
I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
-------------------------
I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
10-15-2012, 07:41 AM
10-15-2012, 09:08 AM
