RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-01-2012, 06:45 AM
it just would not hold a straight line or go around a corner in decent fashion no matter what. Almost acted like it had a loose servo saver or stripped servo horn.
A few other folks at our track have had issues similiar to mine.
All in the tuneing of the chassis!
And honestly you did'nt hear the word "twitchy" around here till the B4.1 + 8mm chassis came out!
06-01-2012, 06:52 AM
I agree. As soon as I put a +8mm chassis on mine, it was the wierdest handling thing I ever felt. Twitchy and darty, vs smooth and predictable. Hated it so much I took it off my buggy, then switched to another car.
Hopefully the new car in the future is not engineered to be this loose.
Hopefully the new car in the future is not engineered to be this loose.
06-01-2012, 07:15 AM
Cheapest way to get to worlds spec:
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...1&keyword=%2B8
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=2
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=1
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...products_id=30
It's up to you if you want an extra car or not.
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...1&keyword=%2B8
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=2
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=1
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...products_id=30
It's up to you if you want an extra car or not.
06-01-2012, 07:32 AM
06-01-2012, 07:36 AM
I agree. As soon as I put a +8mm chassis on mine, it was the wierdest handling thing I ever felt. Twitchy and darty, vs smooth and predictable. Hated it so much I took it off my buggy, then switched to another car.
Hopefully the new car in the future is not engineered to be this loose.
Hopefully the new car in the future is not engineered to be this loose.
Those who steer their car around the track with throttle seem to find the 4.1 reactive. On the other hand I like to steer the car around the track, using some drag brake, and negotiating the track. My driving is more conservative. The car is great for me and much more stable than anything else I've tried.
Last weekend my buddy and I swapped cars. He drove my 4.1 worlds and I drove his 22. Thats exactly what he said. Twitchy. I felt his car was very smooth but somewhat lazy. Funny how his car pushed for me but was great for him. I tried to steer the 22 around the track and it was not as responsive for me. That why I like the 4.1 worlds. It goes where you want it to go.
06-01-2012, 07:38 AM
06-01-2012, 07:50 AM
This typically shows up with the Tekin ESC, Savox servos, and Spektrum receivers, this is the first time I've heard of it with a Futaba receiver. I picked up a Savox servo because it was orange and matched the other anodized goodies on my Durango even though everything else I run has Hitec servos. I had the exact same issues you're having. Dropped one of the Hitecs in there and no issue.
Did this setup work properly for you in the past?
Did this setup work properly for you in the past?
I have a T4.1 and SC10 with a similiar setup. Tekin RS, Savox, Futaba RX and glitch buster cap. Never had a problem with those after installing the glitch buster.
06-01-2012, 08:28 AM
I currently run the FT B4 non 4.1 non worlds with plastic chassis. I think its fine. I have driven the XXX buggy before and ONLY liked it on blue groove. Anywhere else I hated the push. I don't like cars that push, nor do I like taping the steering and doing a "left turn clyde". My B4 seems fine to me. Anything that goes wrong is the driver, not the car. Now that being said, I let my B4 sit for 3+ years and this weekend I was taking it apart to lube and check the diff.... Then i noticed the 1oz of weight between the tower and diff case. lol, Then, I remembered a local had told me a few year ago that it really helped stabilize the rear. I had forgotten about it and later added 3/4 oz to each of the rear triangles when I switched to lipo. So now I have 1oz between the tower and diff case and 1.5oz in the triangles and 1/2 oz next to the receiver..... so yeah I guess my B4 is a tank with 2oz of lead in the back. I would take some weight out, but why? The car works for me and is not remotely twitchy, but does not push like a Losi buggy.
06-01-2012, 08:43 AM
I currently run the FT B4 non 4.1 non worlds with plastic chassis. I think its fine. I have driven the XXX buggy before and ONLY liked it on blue groove. Anywhere else I hated the push. I don't like cars that push, nor do I like taping the steering and doing a "left turn clyde". My B4 seems fine to me. Anything that goes wrong is the driver, not the car. Now that being said, I let my B4 sit for 3+ years and this weekend I was taking it apart to lube and check the diff.... Then i noticed the 1oz of weight between the tower and diff case. lol, Then, I remembered a local had told me a few year ago that it really helped stabilize the rear. I had forgotten about it and later added 3/4 oz to each of the rear triangles when I switched to lipo. So now I have 1oz between the tower and diff case and 1.5oz in the triangles and 1/2 oz next to the receiver..... so yeah I guess my B4 is a tank with 2oz of lead in the back. I would take some weight out, but why? The car works for me and is not remotely twitchy, but does not push like a Losi buggy.
06-01-2012, 08:45 AM
This setup has worked fine. I just recently got the buggy it has only been out 3 times. The first two times was fine.
I have a T4.1 and SC10 with a similiar setup. Tekin RS, Savox, Futaba RX and glitch buster cap. Never had a problem with those after installing the glitch buster.
I have a T4.1 and SC10 with a similiar setup. Tekin RS, Savox, Futaba RX and glitch buster cap. Never had a problem with those after installing the glitch buster.
06-01-2012, 09:07 AM
If the car works there really is no reason to change it but you can drop some of that weight without giving up the handling you have now. You comment about the XXX not steering was because of a setup issue, not the car itself. It turns just fine when setup, as does the 22 (hear so many people say they push as well).
06-01-2012, 09:12 AM
I'd start with the weights in the rear triangles. I run the weight under the tower and 1/4 in each triangle. I'm gonna pull the weight out of the triangles tonight for some more testing before the race this weekend.
06-01-2012, 09:24 AM
yeah, I don't have the 8MM chassis so I cant put the weight exact there, so mine ends up being like 1/2 in further back. The weight in the triangles is used to slow chassis roll I assume but putting the weight a little further out. As opposed to centering it.
06-01-2012, 10:14 AM
I run stock blinky mode and I geared my car down from 34/75 to 33/75 and it seems way to punchy but the acceleration is great for the short run that leads to my douples at the track. I use to to make the jumps with the old gearing but had to swing just a lil wider which often gave up my line for a split second. How should I make adjustments to keep the torqe but keep it smooth at te same time?
06-01-2012, 10:20 AM
I run stock blinky mode and I geared my car down from 34/75 to 33/75 and it seems way to punchy but the acceleration is great for the short run that leads to my douples at the track. I use to to make the jumps with the old gearing but had to swing just a lil wider which often gave up my line for a split second. How should I make adjustments to keep the torqe but keep it smooth at te same time?