1LikesKyosho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 Thread
10-20-2010, 09:51 AM
#151
Thanks for the update. 
Well I didn't used them much, and on rather smooth tracks. I expect most improvements on rutted tracks like we have here. So far they are really smooth, you can use light oils (20-25) without bottoming out too easily. You only get one kind of pistons but I like it, less things to mess with 
What I like :
- same design as before, easy to bleed
- X-rings are stock
- additional o-ring so the X-ring cap doesn't get loose
- springs don't rub on bodies
- black springs look great
- use same shafts
- Not too many spring choice with 5 different hardness front and rear
- new stuff effect : "my car is better than yours"
What I dislike :
- springs are expensive
- you can't get the rear of the car really low, only slightly above level. It can be useful on some tracks to go lower!
What I like :
- same design as before, easy to bleed
- X-rings are stock
- additional o-ring so the X-ring cap doesn't get loose
- springs don't rub on bodies
- black springs look great
- use same shafts
- Not too many spring choice with 5 different hardness front and rear
- new stuff effect : "my car is better than yours"
What I dislike :
- springs are expensive
- you can't get the rear of the car really low, only slightly above level. It can be useful on some tracks to go lower!
10-20-2010, 11:53 AM
#152
Just picked up a used zx-5 fs and like it so far. I had a couple questions...
How do you know whether the slipper is too tight? Is there a trick to knowing how tight to adjust it?
Do the FS2 setups work on the FS? Or should i just stick to the older FS setups?
If I just upgraded the rear arms, hingepin, and hubs would that be adequate to upgrade my car, or do I really need to get all the other parts mentioned?
At my last race the rear end was breaking loose too easily, and I couldn't carve the turns like I wanted to. I was planning to decrease the spacers under the rear outside ballstuds and add spacers to the rear inside ballstuds. Am I doing this right?
Thanks for any help...
How do you know whether the slipper is too tight? Is there a trick to knowing how tight to adjust it?
Do the FS2 setups work on the FS? Or should i just stick to the older FS setups?
If I just upgraded the rear arms, hingepin, and hubs would that be adequate to upgrade my car, or do I really need to get all the other parts mentioned?
At my last race the rear end was breaking loose too easily, and I couldn't carve the turns like I wanted to. I was planning to decrease the spacers under the rear outside ballstuds and add spacers to the rear inside ballstuds. Am I doing this right?
Thanks for any help...
What springs you using D-money?
10-22-2010, 06:38 AM
#154
10-22-2010, 04:00 PM
#156
My lazer. 
10-26-2010, 05:39 AM
#157
Tech Apprentice
So what exactly have you found by doing this to the car??
I assume the rear hubs are forward in the wishbone to start with also? and your running the standard velvet shocks??
Cheers
Nick
10-27-2010, 06:21 AM
#158
Basically the car has been shortened on the arms by 5mm.
10-27-2010, 07:02 AM
#159
The total 5mm is coming from the front (3mm) and back (2mm). So the front end shouldn't be too jacked up theoretically. Usually a shorter wheelbase should make the car steer more (in some cases twitchy), but adding some of that ackerman should help tame it down somewhat. I'd assume most are not running any shims behind the steering rack ballstuds doing this mod. You don't have to run the full 3mm difference up front, try experimenting with different thickness shims.
10-27-2010, 09:38 AM
#160
Something to try im sure... but especially on the front i would be concerned with the amount of material you have removed would weaken the front wishbones, and a small tap or heavy landing and they could fail??
So what exactly have you found by doing this to the car??
I assume the rear hubs are forward in the wishbone to start with also? and your running the standard velvet shocks??
Cheers
Nick
So what exactly have you found by doing this to the car??
I assume the rear hubs are forward in the wishbone to start with also? and your running the standard velvet shocks??
Cheers
Nick
The car turns and rotates much better and alot quicker with this mod. yes I am running the velvet shocks no BB's.
We have been playing with the rear arms and some drivers actually went 3mm on the rear arms so that they have some adjustment with the rear hub and run it in the middle but I havent tryed it, Yes hubs all the way forward with the 2mm cut from the rear arms.
The total 5mm is coming from the front (3mm) and back (2mm). So the front end shouldn't be too jacked up theoretically. Usually a shorter wheelbase should make the car steer more (in some cases twitchy), but adding some of that ackerman should help tame it down somewhat. I'd assume most are not running any shims behind the steering rack ballstuds doing this mod. You don't have to run the full 3mm difference up front, try experimenting with different thickness shims.
10-28-2010, 10:08 AM
#161
ERM...
Did you know you can shorten the wheelbase by flipping the rear wishbones?
Did you know you can shorten the wheelbase by flipping the rear wishbones?
10-28-2010, 01:02 PM
#162
If you flip the arms, you wont be able to connect the rear swaybar without custom fabbing something up. I guess you could drill and run a ballstud somewhere on the arm, maybe like the Corally RDX does. I think this may be why this mod has come about along with being able to adjust the wheelbase with shims.
10-28-2010, 03:16 PM
#163
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Is it me or does this car like a lot of rear droop. I am running on a smooth indoor track with lots of tight turns. After regionals the setup that felt the best required me to have the rear shocks unscrewed 3 turns just to help the rear lift up more under drag brake and brake before 180s, or else the rear would stay to planted. Is running this much droop a bad thing?
11-02-2010, 11:58 AM
#164
Zach, I have to agree with you that the car likes alot of droop. When I ran the original ZX5 and then the SP, I tried all sorts of limiting of the shocks (right up to no droop) and always came back to running lots of droop all around. One thing I did recently that seemed to help get the car to rotate very nicely is standing the rear shocks up all the way (on the regular FS though). I have the 68 rear springs with the shock all the way out on the tower and in on the arm. Helps the car have the initial grip but then rotates nicely. Could just be me, but I loved the car like that. My front is 55's laid all the way down. 3-Bs all around, 30wt Front/ 25wt Rear. Also added an ounce of weight at the back of my lipo pack. I usually run 0* to 1* toe in up front, but adding a little toe out may help get your steering too. I'm not a fan at all getting the steering that way though. Makes the rear unpredictable I think.
11-02-2010, 01:36 PM
#165
Any updates on the big bores for this car? Kyosho said mid september, and it's now November and I haven't seen or heard anything new