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iTrader: (55)

Heat shrink works very well for keeping the pins in the cva's.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

so do you remove that band all together or just melt the heat shrink in that gap?

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Just put the set screw in and run it as an old style CVD. I've never had the clip rotate...ever.

Aoh

iTrader: (16)

i just use a drop of ca on the band, and it holds it in place.

as for the heatshrink tubing, u can just shrink over the band and it will hold it in place

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

I've seen the pin push through heat shrink tubing, you can try it and it may work but I wouldn't trust it. I would think the clip has to be rubbing on something to get it to move, not sure what but something. I've just never seen one move...just better luck with mine maybe...

chop73

iTrader: (2)

FTSC10 with MMPRO and Tekin Redline17.5 brushless, venum 5400mAh 2s lipo 20c battery, runnin 27/75 gear, at a indoor offroad carpet track. Any suggestions? is this battery sufficient??????????

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Sufficient, yes. Will a higher C rating yield better performance, yes. Some will claim that a higher C rating won't matter with a stock/17.5 motor, they are wrong. Higher C ratings can felt with both stock and mod. motors. If you can't feel the difference you're just not that fast so it doesn't matter anyway.
There are tons of posts and users that agree with me. I will no longer argue my point..

chop73

iTrader: (2)

What do you recomend?

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

that's plenty.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

fwiw I rotated the band around and used a couple drops of glue to hold it in place. I dont think these will rotate around anymore.

I look forward to putting them back in. I 'm not feeling the dogbones , they were poppin out even with me adding orings in the drives.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

I have a Venom 5000 mah 20 c and a Turnigy 40 c 5000 mah and I can feel a difference between the two. Its the punch. For our cars I dont think we need anymore than 40 c. (unless you have a deep wallet then go for it. )

InspGadgt

Finally got my SC10 FT up and racing this past weekend but am running into some handling issues. Initially I wasn't getting enough rear grip in the loose areas of our track so I moved the battery back to the small block behind and the big block in front. This helped with the grip but the truck jumped poorly. It just seemed to be running too low so I raised up the ride height a bit overall and put in my 3800mah practice pack in the truck and ran some practice. The truck felt really good with the 3800 pack and jumped pretty well and still had good rear grip. So for the main I put my 5000mah pack pack in and the truck's jumping went back to poor. So there seems to be an issue with too much weight in the back but moving the pack to the short block up front and big block in the back was not enough grip. So I am thinking on getting a new block and cutting it 50/50 to have the battery between where the grip was good and where it wasn't. Has anyone tried this?

Also...I'm really not liking the plastic shock caps with the bleed hole. I stripped out a bleed hole right away. Will the FT aluminum caps without a bleed hole work? Will I need to use a shock bladder if I use those caps? If so which bladder?

i1justin

iTrader: (20)

cut the foam into 3rds then you can play with placement more, I like 1/3 up front and 2/3 in the back. 3oz under the back foam, behind the battery. How much Toe are you running in the back? the 3.5 inner toe blocks with the 1* hubs seems to be having some good success on slippery tracks

The plastic caps are great when you get used to them, give them another shot, they make bleeding the shocks very easy! Aluminum caps can work and you can use them without bladders, you just have to do the old way of checking shock if you have too much oil back the cap off a touch and push out some oil then repeat!

InspGadgt

It is already in thrds and I have tried it both with 1/3rd front and 1/3rd back and didn't like either for different reasons which is why I'm thinking 50/50 may be better. I've seen other people do like you and add weight under the rear foam but rather than adding weight wouldn't it just be better to find the right battery placement in the first place?

As for rear toe 4.5 degrees sounds quite extreme...I don't think I've ever seen a car run that much. My current setup is whatever stock is in the back and grip was fine so long as I had 2/3rds front and 1/3rd back...but with the heavier battery the truck didn't jump very well. Most of our track is carpet remnants so grip is good there...it's just in the few turns that are dirt is where the traction suffers.

I've tried the plastic caps a few times in the past as well and I've never liked them. I figured I'd give them another try on this truck and find I still don't like them. I wish they would make aluminum ones with the bleed hole but they don't.

i1justin

iTrader: (20)

if you have a lot of grip than 4.5 might be a tad on the extreme side no doubt, but in low grip situations the truck does well with a lot of toe
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...onals_2010.pdf

if you dont like the battery in the back, you dont like it in the front, throw 3oz behind the battery and it might be like getting a little bit of both worlds (think of it as a long batter ), if it doesn't work take it out, its a quick test.
I guess the next question would be to figure out where the truck is loose, getting into the corner, mid to exit etc... moving the camber link to the outside hole on the chassis brace in the back can also help side bite a bit although not gonna do much for your jumping