21LikesTamiya TRF2WD thread
09-30-2012, 05:53 AM
#3166
Im thinking of getting the Orion R10 7.5 system over the Viper system.
So that means I'll run the orion r10 esc, and orion 7.5 motor in the car.
My tire choice is gonna be for an outdoor dusty track, with Jconcepts rounder
on the front(ribbed tires), and Jconcepts flipouts (knobby tires) on the back.
The servos im probably gonna get are these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUS3&P=7
So that means I'll run the orion r10 esc, and orion 7.5 motor in the car.
My tire choice is gonna be for an outdoor dusty track, with Jconcepts rounder
on the front(ribbed tires), and Jconcepts flipouts (knobby tires) on the back.
The servos im probably gonna get are these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUS3&P=7
09-30-2012, 09:32 AM
#3167
Im thinking of getting the Orion R10 7.5 system over the Viper system.
So that means I'll run the orion r10 esc, and orion 7.5 motor in the car.
My tire choice is gonna be for an outdoor dusty track, with Jconcepts rounder
on the front(ribbed tires), and Jconcepts flipouts (knobby tires) on the back.
The servos im probably gonna get are these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUS3&P=7
So that means I'll run the orion r10 esc, and orion 7.5 motor in the car.
My tire choice is gonna be for an outdoor dusty track, with Jconcepts rounder
on the front(ribbed tires), and Jconcepts flipouts (knobby tires) on the back.
The servos im probably gonna get are these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUS3&P=7
Also, a 7.5 is A LOT of motor, especially for a loose outdoor track. Pro drivers typically draw the line at 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. No offense, I've watched videos of your driving and even if Xzibit showed up at your house, and was like "yo dog we're gonna pimp yo r/c driving ability" I know you can't handle a 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. Get a 13.5, and a nice ESC that has the ability to do timing. Start with no timing, and once you can make an entire battery pack without a single crash, almost every time you hit the track, then add some timing. A 2wd buggy + a 7.5 + a dusty outdoor track + your driving = many broken parts.
Take my advice on the motor. If you don't now, you will later.
09-30-2012, 10:32 AM
#3168
Also, a 7.5 is A LOT of motor, especially for a loose outdoor track. Pro drivers typically draw the line at 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. No offense, I've watched videos of your driving and even if Xzibit showed up at your house, and was like "yo dog we're gonna pimp yo r/c driving ability" I know you can't handle a 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. Get a 13.5, and a nice ESC that has the ability to do timing. Start with no timing, and once you can make an entire battery pack without a single crash, almost every time you hit the track, then add some timing. A 2wd buggy + a 7.5 + a dusty outdoor track + your driving = many broken parts.
Take my advice on the motor. If you don't now, you will later.
Take my advice on the motor. If you don't now, you will later.
If you saw me drive now you would be like "holy cow this dude can wheel a 2wd buggy."
Yeah I will take your advice however and try to drive with a 10.5 first.
Before jumping into a faster motor. Lipo batteries are much faster than NIMH.
09-30-2012, 11:50 AM
#3169
So you have run the 415, 416, and 417?
The best way to set ride height is to drop the car from about 5 inches. Make sure it is on a smooth surface like a glass counter or a tweak board. Nothing better than people setting their ride height on some dirty, uneven wood table at the track. Or better yet their pit towel. If your going to do it, do it right. I like the Losi ride height gauge. It has a feature which may be accidental, but I like very much. It has about 1mm of play up and down, and the up side of the play is the indicated setting. I set the ride height I want, move the gauge to the bottom of the free play, slide it under the car, then move it to the top of the play. If it just touches the chassis I'm good, if it doesn't I lower the car, if it moves the car I raise the ride height. Easy, accurate.
The best way to set ride height is to drop the car from about 5 inches. Make sure it is on a smooth surface like a glass counter or a tweak board. Nothing better than people setting their ride height on some dirty, uneven wood table at the track. Or better yet their pit towel. If your going to do it, do it right. I like the Losi ride height gauge. It has a feature which may be accidental, but I like very much. It has about 1mm of play up and down, and the up side of the play is the indicated setting. I set the ride height I want, move the gauge to the bottom of the free play, slide it under the car, then move it to the top of the play. If it just touches the chassis I'm good, if it doesn't I lower the car, if it moves the car I raise the ride height. Easy, accurate.
Yep...415, MS, MSX, X, WE so many darn versions. Too bad Tamiya doesn't update the 201 in the same matter or at least half of those updates :P
Thanks for the ride height explanation. I just picked up one of those Losi ride height gauges.
I'm with R.S. as far as setting ride height. Make sure the setting are accurate. Ride height, toe and camber. Then in drive the car. If the car is slamming the back end everytime you land then you need more rear "pack". If that's the case then put the 1.3 pistons in the rear and drive it again. If its still doing it try 1.2 pistons in the rear.
I doubt the other 201 you speak of is running velvets with tamiya pistons. That would be the only way to make an apples to apples comparison. If he's running lets say 3b pistons compared to your stock pistons then the comparison is less about shocks and more about pistons. Setup is 90% tires/ shocks. Find a shock package you like and taylor the setup around them. Tamiya pistons are amazing. They are machined where the Kyosho small bore pistons are not. Also make sure your shock rod isn't binding in the shock body because of crappy shock o-rings. Until the TRF x-rings hit the market I ran the clear Kyosho o-rings in all my shocks. HUGE difference over the stock orange o-rings.
I doubt the other 201 you speak of is running velvets with tamiya pistons. That would be the only way to make an apples to apples comparison. If he's running lets say 3b pistons compared to your stock pistons then the comparison is less about shocks and more about pistons. Setup is 90% tires/ shocks. Find a shock package you like and taylor the setup around them. Tamiya pistons are amazing. They are machined where the Kyosho small bore pistons are not. Also make sure your shock rod isn't binding in the shock body because of crappy shock o-rings. Until the TRF x-rings hit the market I ran the clear Kyosho o-rings in all my shocks. HUGE difference over the stock orange o-rings.
I'm debating picking up a second 201 just to setup as a mod buggy.
I do think the 201 is a great car and just want to figured out the shocks and why it's slapping hard on some landings. I've almost read this entire thread from about page 90! LOL
09-30-2012, 04:49 PM
#3171
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09-30-2012, 05:48 PM
#3173
09-30-2012, 05:53 PM
#3174
The video you saw was over 4-5 years old. Back in 2007-2008
If you saw me drive now you would be like "holy cow this dude can wheel a 2wd buggy."
Yeah I will take your advice however and try to drive with a 10.5 first.
Before jumping into a faster motor. Lipo batteries are much faster than NIMH.
If you saw me drive now you would be like "holy cow this dude can wheel a 2wd buggy."
Yeah I will take your advice however and try to drive with a 10.5 first.
Before jumping into a faster motor. Lipo batteries are much faster than NIMH.
Also is it my understanding that you are just now going to lipo?
09-30-2012, 08:03 PM
#3177
I was finally able to get to the track to test out the Exotek conversion. I waa thinking my setup was going to be way different than what it normally is. I was way off. It doesnt really matter what I started with...all that matters was how I ended. I will post the setup as soon as I can convert the pdf to a small enough file I can post here. I still have much to test. Overall I was pleased with the amount of rear grip. Actually its still a bit too much rear grip. I plan to locate a LMR brass bulkhead or wait until the Tamiya version hits Tamiya USA. I think the added weight will balance the car. I'm also going to test the 3b shock piston package with and without the big bore conversion. I'm starting to feel the big bore springs may not be needed after all. It seems the more I run the car the more I like the simplicity of an all Tamiya car. Lee Martin has been running x-gear std bore springs. I'm looking for a website that I can actually read so I can place an order. More details to follow.
09-30-2012, 08:12 PM
#3178
Just converted to the "Losi" style rear uprights. Having trouble keeping the ball stud in the upright. Using set screw on both sides of the ball stud threads to help secure the threads.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
09-30-2012, 08:41 PM
#3180
How long is the threaded part of the ballstud?
Last edited by R.Shackleford; 10-01-2012 at 02:16 AM.