21LikesTamiya TRF2WD thread
11-17-2011, 07:39 AM
#2506
11-17-2011, 07:22 PM
#2508
also if im running 3 degree front and rear toe blocks and switch to the xa rear toe block and leave the front 3 degree in what does that effect?or should i say what does it give and take away?cant wait to run this thing at westcoast,also guys ive noticed for nt stock class everyone runs 72/33 and with the 33 it rubs the gear cover,im going to try the 32 out first and maybe trim the inside to run the 33.
11-17-2011, 09:25 PM
#2509
also if im running 3 degree front and rear toe blocks and switch to the xa rear toe block and leave the front 3 degree in what does that effect?or should i say what does it give and take away?cant wait to run this thing at westcoast,also guys ive noticed for nt stock class everyone runs 72/33 and with the 33 it rubs the gear cover,im going to try the 32 out first and maybe trim the inside to run the 33.
I have been running 72/34 on the recent lay out and you have to do some major grinding on the rear gear cover. It's gonna get really thin.
11-23-2011, 06:17 AM
#2510
Tech Initiate
11-23-2011, 06:56 AM
#2511
[email protected]
For big bores most are using the Kyosho ones.
11-24-2011, 09:00 AM
#2512
The standard shock pistons are 2 hole hence the 2. The x 1.4 is the hole size per hole. So you could also have 3x1.4 2x1.3 etc. But when just "1.4" this also refers to the standard 2 hole pistons.
First the XA block is for the front of the rear arm and gives you .5 degree more toe in. With the stock 3 degree rear aluminum block this will total 3.5 degree toe in. the XB will give you 1.0 more giving you 4.0 toe in.
I have been running 72/34 on the recent lay out and you have to do some major grinding on the rear gear cover. It's gonna get really thin.
First the XA block is for the front of the rear arm and gives you .5 degree more toe in. With the stock 3 degree rear aluminum block this will total 3.5 degree toe in. the XB will give you 1.0 more giving you 4.0 toe in.
I have been running 72/34 on the recent lay out and you have to do some major grinding on the rear gear cover. It's gonna get really thin.
11-27-2011, 01:57 PM
#2513
got to run the buggy for the first time lastnight,its been years since i had a 2wd buggy.Coming from shortbus and stadium truck this was a hole new world.i was dealing with some major front end pushing,thought i had it pretty decent for rd 1 of qual and it was ok,rd2 i changed the shock location on the towers and the front tires and the car wouldnt turn if its life depended on it,so the main i ended up going back to the 2nd hole from the inside,went alittle heavier up front with oil with green springs and added more weight in the front of the battery tray and the car was brought back to life,its really good but i know alittle more time with it,it will be good,we had 3 heats of stock buggy and that class is stacked,i caught up to 2nd and 3rd and then bobbled and it was over for me but still ended up 4th in the b,considering it was my first time out with the car and the stacked field in a big race i was really happy with the car.Cant wait to go run it again.
p.s. thanks jimmy for the rear axle,i owe you one!!
p.s. thanks jimmy for the rear axle,i owe you one!!
11-28-2011, 11:51 AM
#2514
have you guys noticed the kyosho pistons are 0.20 mm smaller then the tamiyas?
iv also been running losi 22 springs, they feel more stable then ae, or kyosho springs!
iv also been running losi 22 springs, they feel more stable then ae, or kyosho springs!
11-28-2011, 12:01 PM
#2515
Tech Apprentice
Not sure I follow. Would the Losi 22 spring diameter not be too large for the stock Tamiya shock?
11-28-2011, 12:54 PM
#2516
Was able to get out to the track on Wed. before Thanksgiving. I switched my buggy over to Randys setup (except without the BB shocks/springs) and wow what a difference. I even shrink wrapped my weights. 
The buggy has always been "ok". BUt adding the weights to the outside edges of the chassis was a major difference. It was much more stable and very easy to drive. There was one off camber section of the track that I had to be careful of...it you took it with too much speed any buggy would topple over.
My big bores made it in today and I just finished moutning them up with the Losi #55 pistons , KO pink springs front and TLR yellow rears. Looking forward to getting out and trying the "entire" setup.
If your looking for an easy to drive setup make sure you take a look at Randys....even with the stock shocks it works well. The only change I made all night wasmoving the shock out one hole on the rear tower. It kicked the back end up for extra clearance over a tripple section and allowed it to land without chassis slapping.
Where are you guys for bump steer washer if any?
The buggy has always been "ok". BUt adding the weights to the outside edges of the chassis was a major difference. It was much more stable and very easy to drive. There was one off camber section of the track that I had to be careful of...it you took it with too much speed any buggy would topple over.
My big bores made it in today and I just finished moutning them up with the Losi #55 pistons , KO pink springs front and TLR yellow rears. Looking forward to getting out and trying the "entire" setup.
If your looking for an easy to drive setup make sure you take a look at Randys....even with the stock shocks it works well. The only change I made all night wasmoving the shock out one hole on the rear tower. It kicked the back end up for extra clearance over a tripple section and allowed it to land without chassis slapping.
Where are you guys for bump steer washer if any?
11-29-2011, 09:53 AM
#2519
Hi guys,
Your running bump steer spacers on the stering spindle yeah? Not inboard?
Also, for those using Tamiya shocks, are you still unwinding the shock bottoms on the rear to add droop?
Thanks for the earlier tips on setup, I have since found one reason I had to have such a weird rear setup was a "bad" pair of tires, which I only found when I tried them on another car which made it undrivable too!
Your running bump steer spacers on the stering spindle yeah? Not inboard?
Also, for those using Tamiya shocks, are you still unwinding the shock bottoms on the rear to add droop?
Thanks for the earlier tips on setup, I have since found one reason I had to have such a weird rear setup was a "bad" pair of tires, which I only found when I tried them on another car which made it undrivable too!
11-29-2011, 01:39 PM
#2520
i hate to do this but i really need some money to pay some bills so my trf is up for sale http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ups-bling.html