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Old 02-09-2011, 11:16 PM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
I like the idea of a captured pin in the center shaft. Is the old design not worth keeping. I didn't like the pin on the outer part like on the other 1/8th scales since the pin sometimes slides out. What do you guys think.

I am currently still building an 808, but mine is the 08/09 car. What it just be worth it to upgrade to the 11 spec or can I run the older design.
yes the problem is the bearings blow apart and chip bevel gears ..I have the New 808E and and 2010 with the 3bearing system , the new/old style will be a lot freer .. I currently have to Pack my pinion bearings with grease every week and added dust covers via a old shock bladder ..
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
yes the problem is the bearings blow apart and chip bevel gears ..I have the New 808E and and 2010 with the 3bearing system , the new/old style will be a lot freer .. I currently have to Pack my pinion bearings with grease every week and added dust covers via a old shock bladder ..
It wont be bad for me since I brake down my car anyones every week. Maintaince isnt an issue for me, but ya don't want to be wasting pinions and bearings all the time though.

How long do some go before they do proper maintainence I wonder. For me I do diff and shocks and bearing cleaning every week.
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:39 PM
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Do the bearings in the diffs fail because lack of maintaince or is it a bad design type thing.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:53 AM
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If you pack them with grease each time you strip down(10 minutes) they last fine..I have over 9 hours hard racetime on mine F & R and they are still like new..I don't find the slight xtra drag even noticeable. The new 2011 style might be fine and less maintenance but it has TWO not one screw to come loose.One tiny set screw on the pivot holding the pin in place and the second holding the cvd to the pinion.means back to the old large diameter heatshrink over the cvd in case the screws vibrate loose.The captured pins was one of the main points I switched to xray in the first place.Unless I have problems with my 3 bearing 13x20 pinions this year I'm not changing.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:07 AM
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Is the internal diameter of the Xray 808 shocks 15mm, like the Losi 8?
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:47 AM
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nope it's neither 15mm or 16mm but something dumb like 15.6 from memory..pistons from anything else won't fit for sure...
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
Do the bearings in the diffs fail because lack of maintaince or is it a bad design type thing.
I keep my car 100% at all time like u the design is the problem IDC if i need to take it apart every week but,I prefer not to change bearings every week or 2 $$$ My XT8 is 100% freer than my 808 "wheels off" will u feel it driving 50/50 u can get more info here:
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10731
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
nope it's neither 15mm or 16mm but something dumb like 15.6 from memory..pistons from anything else won't fit for sure...
I run the Losi 8Be, but don't like the Losi shock bladders. I've been using the Mugen MBX6 bladders, but want to try the Xray bladders. I may give them a try anyways.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:43 AM
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If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.

Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
If you pack them with grease each time you strip down(10 minutes) they last fine..I have over 9 hours hard racetime on mine F & R and they are still like new..I don't find the slight xtra drag even noticeable. The new 2011 style might be fine and less maintenance but it has TWO not one screw to come loose.One tiny set screw on the pivot holding the pin in place and the second holding the cvd to the pinion.means back to the old large diameter heatshrink over the cvd in case the screws vibrate loose.The captured pins was one of the main points I switched to xray in the first place.Unless I have problems with my 3 bearing 13x20 pinions this year I'm not changing.
Ya once I get mine going I will eventually switch over to the 13x20 bearing design and give it a go. Will see how it runs. I have always been great with maintainence I think its vital since its a race car. I think the performance suffers when the upkeep is not done properly IMO.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
Ya once I get mine going I will eventually switch over to the 13x20 bearing design and give it a go. Will see how it runs. I have always been great with maintainence I think its vital since its a race car. I think the performance suffers when the upkeep is not done properly IMO.
If you do routine maintenance on the bearings you will never have one fail. Every once and a while one will develop some slop and you will have to replace it, but it really shouldn't be a problem if you keep an eye on them.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg M
If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.

Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
+1,000,000 on that...a bit of heat shrink over the pivot pin so it can't come out even if the screw loosens is easy.In fact recent discussions on the nitro forum said most drivers (me included) don't even bother to fit the supplied screw and just fit the barrel same as the wheel hub cvd's.the bloody 1.5mm screw always rounds out at a race when you don't have access to a gas torch to burn out the threadlock anyway.But the round shaft with a flat side on the 10T pinion is a crap design.slightest loosening of the screw and it spins and bye bye race.at least it is a 2.5mm screw so you can use some serious threadlock and still unscrew it but the captured pin still gets my vote..Sure like everyone else i fitted the metal shielded xray bearings then drove it in dust and had my first bearings die in just under 2 hours racing.But since I started the grease mod not a problem in 18 races last year.Same bearings all season in fact and I'm not changing them to start this year either.spin like new still.
Id like a set of the new F/R alloy hubs and caster blocks.but not enough to pay full price.Not really in love with the new style bodyshell either.Judgement reserved on that till I see one painted and mounted on the buggy.
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Old 02-10-2011, 03:41 PM
  #793  
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Originally Posted by CJ Weaver
If you do routine maintenance on the bearings you will never have one fail. Every once and a while one will develop some slop and you will have to replace it, but it really shouldn't be a problem if you keep an eye on them.
Its half the fun for me to take the car apart since I enjoy wrenching on everything all the time. So it should be an issue for me.
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:39 PM
  #794  
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Originally Posted by Greg M
If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.

Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
A hex shaped motor shaft would either be weak or crooked. Pic one.

But you could do what your saying with a splined shaft.

I don't run any setscrews in my 809, or E810 CVD's. I also put a litle blue thread lock on my allendriver and rub it around inside my pinion gears. They never come off any more. When I do want to remove them, I have to heat them or pry them off.

Keep in mind that set screws do wear out. The edge that contacts the shaft needs to be sharp. After being removed a few times replace them. (Except for low loaded ones like your wheel hexs)
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:48 PM
  #795  
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HI
I use Ryan Lopez southern nationals setup with diff oils 10k/15k/2k . My car turn over very easy on tight turns. I want my back end little looser for not turning over. What do you suggest?
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