XRay 808E Thread
#781
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
I like the idea of a captured pin in the center shaft. Is the old design not worth keeping. I didn't like the pin on the outer part like on the other 1/8th scales since the pin sometimes slides out. What do you guys think.
I am currently still building an 808, but mine is the 08/09 car. What it just be worth it to upgrade to the 11 spec or can I run the older design.
I am currently still building an 808, but mine is the 08/09 car. What it just be worth it to upgrade to the 11 spec or can I run the older design.
#782
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
yes the problem is the bearings blow apart and chip bevel gears ..I have the New 808E and and 2010 with the 3bearing system , the new/old style will be a lot freer .. I currently have to Pack my pinion bearings with grease every week and added dust covers via a old shock bladder ..
How long do some go before they do proper maintainence I wonder. For me I do diff and shocks and bearing cleaning every week.
#784
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
If you pack them with grease each time you strip down(10 minutes) they last fine..I have over 9 hours hard racetime on mine F & R and they are still like new..I don't find the slight xtra drag even noticeable. The new 2011 style might be fine and less maintenance but it has TWO not one screw to come loose.One tiny set screw on the pivot holding the pin in place and the second holding the cvd to the pinion.means back to the old large diameter heatshrink over the cvd in case the screws vibrate loose.The captured pins was one of the main points I switched to xray in the first place.Unless I have problems with my 3 bearing 13x20 pinions this year I'm not changing.
#785
Is the internal diameter of the Xray 808 shocks 15mm, like the Losi 8?
#787
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
ok
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10731
#788
I run the Losi 8Be, but don't like the Losi shock bladders. I've been using the Mugen MBX6 bladders, but want to try the Xray bladders. I may give them a try anyways.
#789
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
#790
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
If you pack them with grease each time you strip down(10 minutes) they last fine..I have over 9 hours hard racetime on mine F & R and they are still like new..I don't find the slight xtra drag even noticeable. The new 2011 style might be fine and less maintenance but it has TWO not one screw to come loose.One tiny set screw on the pivot holding the pin in place and the second holding the cvd to the pinion.means back to the old large diameter heatshrink over the cvd in case the screws vibrate loose.The captured pins was one of the main points I switched to xray in the first place.Unless I have problems with my 3 bearing 13x20 pinions this year I'm not changing.
#791
Ya once I get mine going I will eventually switch over to the 13x20 bearing design and give it a go. Will see how it runs. I have always been great with maintainence I think its vital since its a race car. I think the performance suffers when the upkeep is not done properly IMO.
#792
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
Id like a set of the new F/R alloy hubs and caster blocks.but not enough to pay full price.Not really in love with the new style bodyshell either.Judgement reserved on that till I see one painted and mounted on the buggy.
#794
If the part where the pinion attaches to the drive shaft was a hex, instead of round, then there would be no issue if the grub screw came loose. I don't understand why it continues to be round and secured by a grub screw.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
Actually, the same goes for motor shafts and pinions, why stick to round, why not hex, then you aren't so reliant on a grub screw. I had the grub screw come loose on a pinion last race day, so frustrating.
But you could do what your saying with a splined shaft.
I don't run any setscrews in my 809, or E810 CVD's. I also put a litle blue thread lock on my allendriver and rub it around inside my pinion gears. They never come off any more. When I do want to remove them, I have to heat them or pry them off.
Keep in mind that set screws do wear out. The edge that contacts the shaft needs to be sharp. After being removed a few times replace them. (Except for low loaded ones like your wheel hexs)
#795
Setup
HI
I use Ryan Lopez southern nationals setup with diff oils 10k/15k/2k . My car turn over very easy on tight turns. I want my back end little looser for not turning over. What do you suggest?
I use Ryan Lopez southern nationals setup with diff oils 10k/15k/2k . My car turn over very easy on tight turns. I want my back end little looser for not turning over. What do you suggest?