XRay 808E Thread
12-19-2010, 01:18 PM
#601
These are the shims I use:
To shim the pinion out, put the shim here:
To shim the pinion in put the shim here:
To shim the diff ring gear in, put the shim here (between bearing and gear box wall, over the outdrive):
With the entire front or rear end off of the chassis. Spin the propshaft while pushing it in or pulling it out. If you have excess play in the pinion you'll feel it bind up when you push it in or pull it out. Usually if I push the shaft in while turning it, with zero shims, the gearbox locks up. But if I pull it out it runs free. So I shim the pinion 1 shim out, reassemble, and spin the shaft again while pushing it in. Deosn't lock up now.
This is the shaft I push/pull on while spinning to test:
It's easy when you have it figured out. Just make sure your gears don't lock up when you push the shaft in while spinning it by hand. Can't really be done with the gearboxes on the chassis, you have to remove them. It's ok for them to be kinda gritty. They are straight cut teeth after all.
Just remember to push the pinion assembly in completely before screwing it in. Don't let those tiny screws pull the bearings in, they'll strip.
I shim the pinion out 1 shimand the ring in 1 shim. But you have to check your gear mesh. Each box may be different, molded plastic can be weird like that. You may not require any shims or you may require a bunch.
Shimming the active diff and 41th option parts is a pain. Those are not as nice, unless I recieved wrong parts or something.
To shim the pinion out, put the shim here:
To shim the pinion in put the shim here:
To shim the diff ring gear in, put the shim here (between bearing and gear box wall, over the outdrive):
With the entire front or rear end off of the chassis. Spin the propshaft while pushing it in or pulling it out. If you have excess play in the pinion you'll feel it bind up when you push it in or pull it out. Usually if I push the shaft in while turning it, with zero shims, the gearbox locks up. But if I pull it out it runs free. So I shim the pinion 1 shim out, reassemble, and spin the shaft again while pushing it in. Deosn't lock up now.
This is the shaft I push/pull on while spinning to test:
It's easy when you have it figured out. Just make sure your gears don't lock up when you push the shaft in while spinning it by hand. Can't really be done with the gearboxes on the chassis, you have to remove them. It's ok for them to be kinda gritty. They are straight cut teeth after all.
Just remember to push the pinion assembly in completely before screwing it in. Don't let those tiny screws pull the bearings in, they'll strip.
I shim the pinion out 1 shimand the ring in 1 shim. But you have to check your gear mesh. Each box may be different, molded plastic can be weird like that. You may not require any shims or you may require a bunch.
Shimming the active diff and 41th option parts is a pain. Those are not as nice, unless I recieved wrong parts or something.
Last edited by Zerodefect; 12-19-2010 at 01:56 PM.
12-19-2010, 05:47 PM
#603
These are the shims I use:
To shim the pinion out, put the shim here:
To shim the pinion in put the shim here:
To shim the diff ring gear in, put the shim here (between bearing and gear box wall, over the outdrive):
With the entire front or rear end off of the chassis. Spin the propshaft while pushing it in or pulling it out. If you have excess play in the pinion you'll feel it bind up when you push it in or pull it out. Usually if I push the shaft in while turning it, with zero shims, the gearbox locks up. But if I pull it out it runs free. So I shim the pinion 1 shim out, reassemble, and spin the shaft again while pushing it in. Deosn't lock up now.
This is the shaft I push/pull on while spinning to test:
It's easy when you have it figured out. Just make sure your gears don't lock up when you push the shaft in while spinning it by hand. Can't really be done with the gearboxes on the chassis, you have to remove them. It's ok for them to be kinda gritty. They are straight cut teeth after all.
Just remember to push the pinion assembly in completely before screwing it in. Don't let those tiny screws pull the bearings in, they'll strip.
I shim the pinion out 1 shimand the ring in 1 shim. But you have to check your gear mesh. Each box may be different, molded plastic can be weird like that. You may not require any shims or you may require a bunch.
Shimming the active diff and 41th option parts is a pain. Those are not as nice, unless I recieved wrong parts or something.
To shim the pinion out, put the shim here:
To shim the pinion in put the shim here:
To shim the diff ring gear in, put the shim here (between bearing and gear box wall, over the outdrive):
With the entire front or rear end off of the chassis. Spin the propshaft while pushing it in or pulling it out. If you have excess play in the pinion you'll feel it bind up when you push it in or pull it out. Usually if I push the shaft in while turning it, with zero shims, the gearbox locks up. But if I pull it out it runs free. So I shim the pinion 1 shim out, reassemble, and spin the shaft again while pushing it in. Deosn't lock up now.
This is the shaft I push/pull on while spinning to test:
It's easy when you have it figured out. Just make sure your gears don't lock up when you push the shaft in while spinning it by hand. Can't really be done with the gearboxes on the chassis, you have to remove them. It's ok for them to be kinda gritty. They are straight cut teeth after all.
Just remember to push the pinion assembly in completely before screwing it in. Don't let those tiny screws pull the bearings in, they'll strip.
I shim the pinion out 1 shimand the ring in 1 shim. But you have to check your gear mesh. Each box may be different, molded plastic can be weird like that. You may not require any shims or you may require a bunch.
Shimming the active diff and 41th option parts is a pain. Those are not as nice, unless I recieved wrong parts or something.
Now what happens if you have the bearing spacer in place. You still need to shim the diff/pinion in correctly.
12-19-2010, 07:03 PM
#604
Yes, you have to have the spacer in for this to work. My cars each have the spacers that Xray started useing in '09.
12-19-2010, 10:00 PM
#607
Tech Regular
i hope that xray will bring a direct fit 42 plastic spur gear.
mihael
mihael
12-19-2010, 10:43 PM
#609
Tech Regular
I have a kyosho Spur gear here and this don't fit
12-20-2010, 12:54 AM
#611
Tech Regular
I have a ae Spur gear here and it doesnt fit Too.
Its to Big.
I Hope there will Cinema a Small Spur gear from xray
Its to Big.
I Hope there will Cinema a Small Spur gear from xray
12-20-2010, 10:46 AM
#613
Tech Regular
it can not be exactly like an ae spur gear. the ae spur gear is a littel bit to big.
the holes fits but the 46 teeth make the spur gear a littel bit too big for the 808e. i hop you understand what i mean.
so i hope that xray will bring here something.
the holes fits but the 46 teeth make the spur gear a littel bit too big for the 808e. i hop you understand what i mean.
so i hope that xray will bring here something.
12-20-2010, 11:56 AM
#615
With 1.1x10 pistons the silver springs are ok in cold weather.
I'm running 1.1x10, 45wt and 1.2x8 45wt in my EBOB for winter indoors. I may need bluegray rear springs for more turnin.