80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
10-26-2011, 08:44 AM
#1231
10-26-2011, 08:45 AM
#1232
Was putting shocks on the car last night. Noticed one of the standoffs (Part# 330312-3) wasn't completely molded. I looked to see if they were available online, but couldn't find any. Anyone know if the big bore fr/rr metal standoffs will work? Will probably call TD for a replacement too.
10-26-2011, 08:46 AM
#1233
10-26-2011, 08:50 AM
#1234
10-26-2011, 08:58 AM
#1236
Thanks!
10-26-2011, 09:04 AM
#1237
I'm running a short pack with a single L__I batter pad in the rear then I'm using the thin Team Durango pads from the 410 cut down to length to fill the gap. So one L__I thick, the one single TD pad, battery, fill in the gap with more Td pads.
I also have 1 oz right behind/below the servo.
I also have 1 oz right behind/below the servo.
10-26-2011, 10:19 AM
#1239
For people that are having problem with too little rear droop, any chances that you may not notice there are changes on the download manual, which indicate a different rear busing when you are fitting the gear box to the chassis? the part number in the printed manual are wrong, and it will not allow your gear box to be fully seated on to the chassis, just a thought.
10-26-2011, 10:53 AM
#1240
I know it has been asked a couple times already but in the last 80+ pages I havent seen the answer yet. What does this car weigh? I would really like to know what it weighs fully built but without any electronics. Couple of posts suggested it was too heavy for 17.5.
Nick
Nick
10-26-2011, 04:14 PM
#1242
FYI, Jconcepts 2025 ball cups work on the 210. I used b4 balls. the rear bent inners clear just fine.
And to anyone who is thinking of getting the dex210. These are the best shocks and ball diff i have ever felt, PERIOD! Havent run it yet, but im Racing tonight, well see how it does.
And to anyone who is thinking of getting the dex210. These are the best shocks and ball diff i have ever felt, PERIOD! Havent run it yet, but im Racing tonight, well see how it does.
10-26-2011, 05:25 PM
#1245
Started on my kit tonight, and it's been great so far. I'm coming from having owned every generation of XRay EP touring cars (local carpet track is now dirt) and I wanted a buggy that was built like an XRay, and I got it. I have one CVD doing as you described and that is my only issue so far. I have rebuilt both using every combination of bone/pin/coupler/axle there is and have isolated it to one of the axles. Tried every set of holes on said axle with the same result. Comparing the cup of the good axle vs the cup of the bad axle they look the same, I can't see any burrs or machining defects that would make one work and the other not. The holes *look* like they are 180 degrees from each other but I don't have a way to measure it so can't be 100% sure. I'll finish out the car and come back to it, and see if anyone else comes across this issue in the meantime. Everything else about the buggy has met or exceeded my expectations, and believe me they were high!
Randy thanks for posting the setup, I'm starting from there. My track should be a med-high bite track, indoor clay. I know it's a tough gig having to go out and play with your new buggy all day and figure out a starting setup, but someones gotta do it right?
-rocky b
Randy thanks for posting the setup, I'm starting from there. My track should be a med-high bite track, indoor clay. I know it's a tough gig having to go out and play with your new buggy all day and figure out a starting setup, but someones gotta do it right?
-rocky b
I did and fixed it myself. The ball end of the CVD hits all the holes in the axle that the pin slips into. Like they all have high spots.
You will see pull the pin and pudh the cvd into the axle you have to push it in,it binds.
I just put my cvd in a drill took some 1000 sandpaper and removed alittle material from the ball. Problem solved. Also you can chuck the axle in the drill and clean up the ID of the axle where the cvd goes in.
Pete