air8

iTrader: (7)

They should work.

Sorry to hear so many people have ball cup problems. I've crashed the bejesus out of mine many, many times. No ball cup problems.

Have had right rear drive shaft come out of the outdrive twice. Once today...landed on all fours and ooops, no more go.

Tore left side ball cup mount off tranny case. Was doing a tail whip and got it wrong. LoL.

Diff balls seem to go out fast. Maybe it's our blown out track, maybe not. Ceramics are on the way as well as the gear diff. Track rebuild coming soon...going back to the ball diff then.

Also today I clipped a wood board near max speed on our back straight. I was sure the car was toast. But the left rear hinge pin pulled out. The anti-squat block(plastic) flexed enough but didn't break to allow hinge pin to come out.

No idea how much run time total. About 10 + or - batteries per day since last Saturday. Durability is definately a 10 out of 10 with this car. Rear end maintenance/repair about a 4 out of 10.

Have dialed in a good setup now. I am able to tune steering by tire selection which is where I was last season with the B4.1. Although there are still times...the rear feels too locked in...then sometimes not. I think that is the diff causing that though. I'm not good enough to know that though. LoL.

Looks like I will go ahead and sell my B4.1 and look forward to the 4-wheeler 410.

nmdesertracer

iTrader: (59)

Hey what pinion should i run with a 8.5 motor?

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

This may have already been asked..(my phone doesn't seem to do the search feature very well) what do you guys think of the RTR's +8 chassis? Most seem to think that it would make the car a bit pushy on the smaller track, but it seemed to really help the B4.1..the local hobby shop has all 3 RTR's and upon checking it looks like all 3 use the same chassis. But when you check it's showing that the +8 chassis for the buggy isn't going to be available until January, the +8 body will be available in November..but the SC chassis is the same length and its based on the 210 platform..so..what do you guys think? Worth trying?

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

What spur are you running? On a 10.5 I'm at a 21..that's with the stock spur, I would think that somewhere in the 17 to 19 range would be good, start there and temp it and the speed controler and see where you need to go..

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

The +8 chassis wil be avail early Nov.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUXZ&P=7

Cain

iTrader: (294)

So let me get this straight, the RPM ball ends need to be used with diffent ball studs than what is stock? Is it because the ball studs are too small?

I have a large collection of academy ball ends which fit tight on AE ball studs, wonder if they would work ...

Also my DEX210 had HD on the ball ends, is that what they all say or is that some sort of upgraded ball end?

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

THe TD balls are 4.7 so they are larger so you need smaller balls.

I think I read that the SC chassis is 15mm longer than the 210 chassis not the +8 you are thinking

8.5T motor, depends on what track you are on, how slippery, long etc.
Start with a 19/20 and go from there

A good measure is to be at the fastest by 2/3rds 3/4 of the straight more is not needed and have an eye on temps

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info.

I used the search feature and all I am seeing is part numbers of mention of the TC5 titanium nitride ball studs.

Can you use these instead?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Associated-TC5

What length do you need? or, can you use a slightly longer stud assuming the 10mm are longer?

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

That's estimated not a for sure deal..I got my info from the distributor..so who knows..

xrayrc

iTrader: (63)

Those should be fine I have used 10 and 8 mm ones without an issue the part number for the 8mm ones are ASC 31281

M3Armand

Hey guys,

I literally just finished putting the radio / electrics in and put stickers on the body. I just mated the transmitter and ESC and found a "wobble" in the driveshaft. First, I noticed that the driveshaft seems a little "short" when the wheels are fully extended down. This is the same for both left and right sides - see pics. Is this NORMAL or did my kit come with short ones? Tip to tip, mine is 105mm.

Also, one of the driveshafts is actually slightly bent. The car hasn't even left my desk yet. So now I have to take it apart and straighten that driveshaft?

p.s. - I like how the hole guides on the wing doesn't match the wing mounts as they are mounted on the car...nice...NOT! Experience taught me to check in advance. I pity the beginner/semi-intermediate builder who will have to buy a new wing if they drilled using the the hole guides.

R-E-A-P-E-R-

iTrader: (13)

Ready for some winter racing!!!

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

The drive shafts are correct lengths its just unfornately the ball diff out drives that are 1-2mm too short when running full droop. The slight wooble on the driveshaft is something I have encountered myself too with brand new drives occasionally. It's always in that rivet in the middle. I'm like 3/12 on the occasional wobbly driveshaft.

M3Armand

Can you show me how you routed the wires? I'm having a hard time fitting the body correctly with how I wired the motor wires. But I'm running 4 mm connectors on the motor. If I can't make it fit, then I'll just hardwire. Thanks in advance.

brians11

iTrader: (40)

I'm looking to sell my 210 if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...dex-210-a.html