aquamann

iTrader: (23)

I've got a question, I have a fully upgraded 210v1 with full tresrey, revolution design, and exotek and is a awesome car. Is it worth the difference of getting the v2 and switching the parts that will switch or stick with the v1 and add the revolution design +11 chassis(the only thing I haven't upgraded) but still running all the type a parts. Also Im running on mostly outdoor semi loomy hard packed tracks.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Keep the v1 sounds like you have already upgraded the items that were not great from the v1 so no point really, add the chassis if you want

RBraswell

iTrader: (15)

Just update to the Type B parts. IE transmission case, rear arms, front arms, maybe front shock body and shock shaft. Other then that no real difference. 11+ chassis is ideal. you can easily get a DIMEC20 +8mm tybe B chassis and rock it.

av4625

Any setup advice for loose dirt? or just to try not to be to much sidewayz? lol

RBraswell

iTrader: (15)

Rear motor 4 gear setup. I use double Dee's rear for loomy dirt. suspension setup on your jumps really.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I think someone mentioned that the V2 had different front hubs with slightly shorter arms than the original V1. Is there an old and a new part number? I found this...

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330339

Thanks!

RBraswell

iTrader: (15)

thought it was only tower, arms, shock body and shafts for the front end.

aquamann

iTrader: (23)

I've read good things about the v2 so pulled the trigger and ordered one. What pistons, oil, and springs are yall running on the v2 having a loomy outdoor track that is very curvy with large jumps.

av4625

They were modified so that you couldnt have to much lock and bind the wheel and get it stuck at full lock, i think the part number is the same

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

Kit 1.6's and 40 wt all around. Springs for ride height are stock all the way down in back, 3/4 down in front.

Devin

I am having trouble assembling a ball diff. It seems that the larger inner diameter thrust washer is too fat to seat inside the diff half.

I'd rechecked that thrust washers to make sure I've had the correct one and tried it another time starting from scrath, same issue. Is this a known problem or does anybody have some tricks for me?

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I run on a loomy/blown blue groove track I run a Dex210V2 in MM/Dimec20 8mm chassis with F 3x1.6 40wt Black spring and R 3x1.7 35wt Red spring . This setup also worked well with RM

av4625

I had this problem, i got some 800/1200 grit wet and dry sand paper and wraped it round a 2mm driver and sanded the inside it is just the black coating is a bit to thick i think, it took me a wile but it worked!

RBraswell

iTrader: (15)

anyone use the lunsford turnbuckles? any pro's /con's to using them?

Devin

Question about the ball diff assembly from Durango on their blog right here: http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/

They say to make it tight enough so that when you have two screw drivers in the gear slot, that you can barely spin them with your fingers.

Is that insane? Holding the two outdrives in my hands, I can't spin the diff.

I bought a used roller DEX in the past and it is nowhere near as tight. Looking for confirmation from anyone who has used this method.