80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
05-30-2014, 09:55 AM
What do you use to measure droop on your rides? Do you also use a setup system like the Hudy or Integy? Setup board?
05-30-2014, 10:06 AM
If you raise the ride height to 24mm, you get 6mm of droop.
Normally I like to run between 20mm for smooth tracks and 22mm for bumpy tracks. You can go higher if necessary. Ride height will alter droop. So if you lower your height you should adjust accordingly.
Front droop controls how much steering you have. Reducing droop give you more steering as it reacts quicker to change, while giving more droop makes the car easier to drive, slower it initiate a turn and pushes on corners exit . Also more front droop gives you more traction on acceleration, more weight transfer to the rear, hence why it pushes.
Rear droop. The more rear droop, the more steering you have into corners, so if you start wiping out under braking or entry, you might have too much weight transfer to the front. You need more droop on bumpy tracks, and less on smooth tracks.
Most of the drivers in off-road just measure the length of the shock or distance between the 2 shock mounting points.
05-30-2014, 11:09 AM
Droop is how much the suspension can lift from ride height. Lets say max droop is 30mm, running 22mm ride height give you 8mm of droop.
If you raise the ride height to 24mm, you get 6mm of droop.
Normally I like to run between 20mm for smooth tracks and 22mm for bumpy tracks. You can go higher if necessary. Ride height will alter droop. So if you lower your height you should adjust accordingly.
Front droop controls how much steering you have. Reducing droop give you more steering as it reacts quicker to change, while giving more droop makes the car easier to drive, slower it initiate a turn and pushes on corners exit . Also more front droop gives you more traction on acceleration, more weight transfer to the rear, hence why it pushes.
Rear droop. The more rear droop, the more steering you have into corners, so if you start wiping out under braking or entry, you might have too much weight transfer to the front. You need more droop on bumpy tracks, and less on smooth tracks.
Most of the drivers in off-road just measure the length of the shock or distance between the 2 shock mounting points.
If you raise the ride height to 24mm, you get 6mm of droop.
Normally I like to run between 20mm for smooth tracks and 22mm for bumpy tracks. You can go higher if necessary. Ride height will alter droop. So if you lower your height you should adjust accordingly.
Front droop controls how much steering you have. Reducing droop give you more steering as it reacts quicker to change, while giving more droop makes the car easier to drive, slower it initiate a turn and pushes on corners exit . Also more front droop gives you more traction on acceleration, more weight transfer to the rear, hence why it pushes.
Rear droop. The more rear droop, the more steering you have into corners, so if you start wiping out under braking or entry, you might have too much weight transfer to the front. You need more droop on bumpy tracks, and less on smooth tracks.
Most of the drivers in off-road just measure the length of the shock or distance between the 2 shock mounting points.
While I agree with everything you said, I think there is an easier way to explain it. Droop defines the amount of weight, & therefore traction, that can be transferred from 1 end or side to the other. The end that extends transfers traction to the end that compresses. During acceleration the front comes up & the back goes down, leading to push. During deceleration the front goes down & the back goes up leading to oversteer or loose.
Reducing droop at 1 end allows less traction to be transferred to the other end. Reducing front droop means you will have less traction available for acceleration but more available for steering during acceleration. Whether this is good or bad depends on the rest of your setup & your driving style.
This can also be applied during cornering. In a left turn the right goes down & the left comes up. If this is excessive it can lead to traction rolling.
05-30-2014, 03:57 PM
Awesome explanations guys. I ask about measuring tools since we have droop screws, I think when using these screws to adjust it's important to make sure it's accurate left to right. Otherwise the chassis will have a bit of "tweak" and that's why I wonder if anyone is using a tool to measure the droop.
05-30-2014, 03:59 PM
Still curious about setup boards too, I've found it hard to get a setting of front toe, camber and all that can be hard to do even with setup wheels. I like setup wheels because I can roll the car and see how straight it is and it's a little more "real world" but setting toe in with setup wheels is difficult.
05-30-2014, 05:08 PM
Still curious about setup boards too, I've found it hard to get a setting of front toe, camber and all that can be hard to do even with setup wheels. I like setup wheels because I can roll the car and see how straight it is and it's a little more "real world" but setting toe in with setup wheels is difficult.
There are 3 ways I know to set your toe without a setup station.
1. By eye, which has obvious draw backs.
2. Hold your car vertically, nose down, & measure the negative camber. This will be your toe out. My problem with this is it is not repeatable because you are holding the car it will be at a slightly different angle every time. Also because you are holding the car the amount of weight being supported by your hand will affect how much droop you have & therefore (assuming you have some bump steer, which you will have) the toe.
3. Roll the car till it just touches a wall or some other object that is relatively perpendicular to the surface the car is resting on. Turn a camber gauge sideways & rest it on the wall. Measure the positive camber in relation to the wall. This will be your negative toe. This guarantees the car is at its nominal ride height with out outside interference, so it is repeatable. This is the method I use.
05-30-2014, 06:25 PM
05-30-2014, 08:18 PM
You need to remove the rubber bump stop to use the older shocks with the V2 tower and v2 flat arms. The rubber stop is around 2mm long. Thus the difference in shock bodies is 2mm so you don't really gain or lose anything. But having a longer shock shaft you need to adjust front droop accordingly with the screws, or you can use a 2mm plastic spacer inside
05-30-2014, 08:29 PM
Dog bones popping out might be a result of too much down travel. Adjust with droop screws. Bottoming out may be the result of a piston and oil combination
Try 3x1.5 and 25wt or 27wt in the rear
Low grip use RM4.
Having a shorter front shock tower makes the car react faster to driver input. Great on a higher grip track with not to many jumps and bumps.
Try 3x1.5 and 25wt or 27wt in the rear
Low grip use RM4.
Having a shorter front shock tower makes the car react faster to driver input. Great on a higher grip track with not to many jumps and bumps.
I'm talking bout the rear shock tower being 4mm shorter
05-30-2014, 11:33 PM
Have a V2 n the way. Has anyone been able to fit electronics inline down the center of the car?
05-30-2014, 11:53 PM
you can if you use a shorty pack with smaller electronics JP.
05-31-2014, 07:30 AM
Little confused on this. The rubber stopper is designed to limit up travel not down travel right? The new v2 shocks are 3mm shorter, so the only way to properly limit them on the new v2 arms are with internal spacers inside the shock body, or using the front bulk head droop tabs which will limit the down travel of the shock by default.
05-31-2014, 01:36 PM
What size droop blocks did you go with?
05-31-2014, 09:24 PM
20mm blocks
Not sure how accurate my calipers are but I measured it to be 23.7mm
Hideeho
I'm still new to durango & didn't realize the desc210 came with front hexes. That's what happens when you assume things
Can you adjust the trail on the desc210 front axles the way you can on the dex210?
Follow up question about front hexes:
Could someone with a dex410 measure the offset of the front wheels? The easiest way to do it is place something straight & sturdy something (i.e. a ruler) across the back of the wheel & measure down from the top of that to the inside of the hex. Most calipers will have piece that sticks out the back as you open it, this can be used to measure depth. Then measure the width of the strait edge you measured from & subtract the from your total.
Looking at the 410 wheels, I'm betting it will be close. If these off sets are the same, people that have a 410 & a 210 will be able to run the same wheels on both (you probably don't want to run the same tires, but that is another subject
).
I'm still new to durango & didn't realize the desc210 came with front hexes. That's what happens when you assume things
Can you adjust the trail on the desc210 front axles the way you can on the dex210?
Follow up question about front hexes:
Could someone with a dex410 measure the offset of the front wheels? The easiest way to do it is place something straight & sturdy something (i.e. a ruler) across the back of the wheel & measure down from the top of that to the inside of the hex. Most calipers will have piece that sticks out the back as you open it, this can be used to measure depth. Then measure the width of the strait edge you measured from & subtract the from your total.
Looking at the 410 wheels, I'm betting it will be close. If these off sets are the same, people that have a 410 & a 210 will be able to run the same wheels on both (you probably don't want to run the same tires, but that is another subject
).
06-01-2014, 02:16 AM
I tried running the v1 shocks with the v2 arms and shock tower and down travel wasn't the problem the problem I had was at compression the piston would hit the shock cap before the chassis would hit the ground , so I went back to v1 arms until I can get the shorter shock body's and shafts.