fq06

iTrader: (12)

Kind of stupid but most companies do that. When the B44.2 came out we were without front arms for a couple months.


I run emulsion on everything indoors. Outdoor I will run bladder on big jump tracks but I only run SCT and mine are pretty much 1/8 scale. Mugen SCT = outdoor with bladder, Tekno SCT = indoor emulsion. Generally always ran bladder 1/8 and emulsion 1/10.

I don't like the added rebound on smooth indoor tracks that you should be down siding jumps anyway and don't need the added bottom out resistance of a bladder build.

My 2¢

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Here's how I build my shocks. After I fill them up with oil, I slowly move the shock piston up and down to get all of the air out from under the piston. Once the air has completely worked its way out, I install the bladder on the shock body pushing a little bit of oil out. Slowly install the cap on the shock . Once it is on, remove the bleeder screw and then push the shock shaft all the way in. While it's in reinstall the bleed screw. Little to no rebound and no danger of blowing out the bladder.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

True, that negative pressure does help tame the rebound of a bladder build. I just haven't liked bladder on any of my rides indoor which is where I usually run. The 2 closest tracks are indoor (30 min) and outdoor is 60 to 120 minutes. Just not needed indoor IMO. Maintenance is the same to me, try freshen up fluid after every drive... two days at worst. Building is easy either way.
Just like the dead feel of emulsion I guess and I don't get inconsistencies from it. Besides the handling around the track it feels like I fly lower and get back to terafirma faster to get on the gas again. If I didn't build it well or old seals or scratched shaft leaking oil... inconsistent on emulsion or bladder. Warmup laps get the fluid mixing and ready for the tone, no issue there.

Great thing about this hobby, many different ways to skin a cat. And the best skinner has the advantage driving skills aside. Reminds me of a members signature that says if you can't drive, tune the *blank* out of it!
That goes along with what you profess, others tune may not be right for you

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Question... I have a lot of weight up front with RM and really like how it is handling and have got to where I have zero washers under the front inner camber links.
My question is, am I risking the ball stud tweaking over to the side and buggering things up? Or has anyone else run the inner links without the wide washer in there?
I wouldn't mind going to 0.5mm washer, but all I have found was a smaller washer that's the same circumference as the base of the ball stud so that's not doing anything for me. Is there a wide 0.5mm washer to space the camber links and give it a wider footprint with?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Dup, sorry.

Nego

iTrader: (107)

have a roller for sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...10-roller.html

ROB784

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys, has anyone had any experience with MM on low grip clay with stock 17.5?

A guy at our track has done some testing with a couple of schumacher's and has found the MM to be nearly a second faster than the RM but I'm still sceptical and not too keen on carving up a body on a "maybe".

Dino_D

On low bite clay? Try the RM4. Bet you its gonna have way more grip. The thing is a RM car not well setup isn't gonna be better than a well setup MM car on low bite. A good setup RM should be better. The driver is also a factor.

ROB784

iTrader: (11)

cheers, I was thinking that, I might just start with RM, if I can't keep up with the MM's I'll look at a change.

Dino_D

Having no rebound (emulsion) style is normally better on indoor tracks. It helps settle the car faster from landings, and you dont get a weird bounce which can happen when you have rebound. If you re-fill and re-bleed the emulsion shocks often, its pretty consistent. Outdoors its a toss up. Having rebound is good on big jumps. Its not to say emulsion won't work as good, it just depends on what you want. Bladders give you a bit more pop over the jumps because of the rebound. Emulsions tend to skim over the jumps lower.

RCNYWOLFTEAM

Any Tips On Building The DESC210R Shocks I Have A Kit On The Way

fq06

iTrader: (12)

For bladder build, like Fred said.
For emulsion, like Fred said till you get to the bladder install, then...
For emulsion with zero rebound, after you did the fill and get the bubbles out, fill the shock body with oil till it has a dome of oil. Rebound build you may need to put a couple drops of oil in the cap along with filling to a dome.
Screw the cap on without the screw.
Push the shaft all the way in.
While holding the shaft all the way in thread the bleeder screw in.

Simple and done.

Dino_D

The Tamiya shock pump works great at getting the bubbles out fast.
You can also try those food saver vacuum pump containers to pull the air out of the shocks.

micholix

Dex210v2 kit-page goes live!

http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex210v2/

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I like the changes. At first I didn't see the point but now that I see a direct comparison I understand them. I think the standard 210 is a great car but the V2 is going to be nicer. I "might" be able to tolerate the body (at night, with my eyes closed) if a big fin is added from the back of the cab to the shock tower like on LeMans or older F1 cars.