FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Yep noticed that also...The issue with the droop is when you use the 0 kickup block. When you use the 1.5 or 3 its fine as it raises the arm. And probably wont use 0 so no big deal.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

U guys notice the 210 parts.

They have a front weight for the 210. Gear diff are $28

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...210/Categories

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I thought you meant they were in stock

After building this balldiff though I'll probably just stick with it. It's pretty awsome

mikeyscott

Ok fitted the electrics last night and genetly bedded in the diff. Doing this has also made the friction on the slipper better.

There is a deffinate difference between a friends slipper in the sense if I set it like his, it slips like mad, if he sets his like mine then he gets v little slip.

At the end of the day it's working, but shame not consistent between the two cars. yes they are both built correctly.

FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

What Kyosho ball cups do I buy to replace the DEX ball cups?

These ones - Kyosho Hard Ball End Set (10) [KYO97021H]:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-End-Set-10
or
these ones - Kyosho 4.8mm Hard Ball End (Gunmetal) (18) [KYOUM112H]:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Gunmetal-18

Glowster21

iTrader: (136)

Guys need some help, feel like a moron with these setup sheets. I get the whole insert and adjustment deal, are you guys running the front axle trailing or inline for longer wheelbase? On the setup sheet for axle, is the number that's checked off the number of millimeters back from inline (trailing) ? Just want to double check as that just hit me...

Apex

iTrader: (51)

For the ballcups, try pre-threading and then add a little grease inside the pre-threaded area prior to building the steering\camber links. Allows for easier adjustment so the ballcup doesn't pop off the pivotball. This way atleast you can wear out the stock stuff before switching over.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

Just practiced up at Trackside, Milwaukee, WI. And what a difference!! I am still using 6 hole pistons. with 40 up front and 35 in the rear and stock springs. I was not bottoming out, plenty of traction. A slight on power push, but I am just so use to 4wd buggy that it could just be the nature of the class. I was still able to drive it fast, Just watching where I had to brake and roll in the corner. I would still like to limit the amount of on power push I have in sweeping corners. Suggestions? Aside from the shocks, I am using Randy's setup.

Also no popped ball cups!! Trackside is a little more forgiving in that sense.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

limit your front droop a bit to get rid of that onpower push

triplesix

You don't adjust the wheelbase with the front axle position. The more you go from trailing to inline, to more spacers are needed in front of the c-hub.
So full trailing setup means all four spacers behind the c-hub, full inline means all spacers in front of the c-hub.

grapejuice

iTrader: (152)

So after popping off another rear inner ball cup last night, had to try something else and after looking at it a bit, I just put on a regular turnbuckle that I had leftover from my 410 and so far no issues!! Didn't pop off, doesn't rub on anything...so far so good

triplesix

Which configuration do you run? RM3?

grapejuice

iTrader: (152)

Yeah...sorry, should have included that

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

As said, you need to keep the spacers moved around on either side of the C-hub as you change the position of your axles. I myself am running my axles in the middle, and therefor am running 2 spacers in front, and 2 behind the C-hub.

FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

This was just posted yesterday on the TD site... good info. for most of us that are trying to figure out this car

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...-insert-guide/