80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
04-11-2013, 04:12 PM
I ran MM4 on slick-mid grip clay and just switched to RM4. MM4 I had a decent setup and positioned best ae 3rd or 4th in 17.5 class. I lost a lot of responsiveness getting enough traction to the rear though, it kept unloading too quickly and required keeping on the gas through turns. Not to say some workup on suspension wouldnt have helped but I figured Id try rear motor before I went crazy to see the difference.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.
04-11-2013, 04:24 PM
When I was letting off the rear end was uncompressing too quickly throwing weight forward. Probably could have been taken care of with thicker oil or lighter spring in the rear. So in short yes the rear would become loose.
Stock chassis. 1* negative camber on the rear, full forward on the ackerman, no spacers on the inner rear turn buckle, 3rd hole towards the inside on the rear hubs for turn buckle, 35 weight oil in front shocks, 40 in rear, rear hubs shimmed all the way to the front or back(cant remember which), 1.5 toe plate, all other inserts I belive were the middle adjustment one. I can probably fill out a sheet and email it to you if youd like.
EDIT: rear shocks were all the out on the arms and mid hole in the tower. everything else was setup from the book.
Stock chassis. 1* negative camber on the rear, full forward on the ackerman, no spacers on the inner rear turn buckle, 3rd hole towards the inside on the rear hubs for turn buckle, 35 weight oil in front shocks, 40 in rear, rear hubs shimmed all the way to the front or back(cant remember which), 1.5 toe plate, all other inserts I belive were the middle adjustment one. I can probably fill out a sheet and email it to you if youd like.
EDIT: rear shocks were all the out on the arms and mid hole in the tower. everything else was setup from the book.
04-11-2013, 04:57 PM
When I was letting off the rear end was uncompressing too quickly throwing weight forward. Probably could have been taken care of with thicker oil or lighter spring in the rear. So in short yes the rear would become loose.
Stock chassis. 1* negative camber on the rear, full forward on the ackerman, no spacers on the inner rear turn buckle, 3rd hole towards the inside on the rear hubs for turn buckle, 35 weight oil in front shocks, 40 in rear, rear hubs shimmed all the way to the front or back(cant remember which), 1.5 toe plate, all other inserts I belive were the middle adjustment one. I can probably fill out a sheet and email it to you if youd like.
EDIT: rear shocks were all the out on the arms and mid hole in the tower. everything else was setup from the book.
Stock chassis. 1* negative camber on the rear, full forward on the ackerman, no spacers on the inner rear turn buckle, 3rd hole towards the inside on the rear hubs for turn buckle, 35 weight oil in front shocks, 40 in rear, rear hubs shimmed all the way to the front or back(cant remember which), 1.5 toe plate, all other inserts I belive were the middle adjustment one. I can probably fill out a sheet and email it to you if youd like.
EDIT: rear shocks were all the out on the arms and mid hole in the tower. everything else was setup from the book.
04-13-2013, 06:11 AM
Well, got around to mounting my +10 up last night. Wanted to do something different since it was all apart. So I decide to try MM4 configuration. My local indoor track(s) being pretty decent bite I opted to try this. Also with the improvement of stability from the aluminum +8, I thought the +10 would be only better! Same setup, basically but mounted the shocks on the rear of the arms and dropped in a 9.5 instead of the 10.5. Will report back Weds. as that will be the first time I get to try it on the track. First experience (don't laugh) in the driveway was pretty good. Balance felt great and didn't have that pendulum effect when hitting the brakes. On another note all chassis have been shipped and people should be receiving theirs shortly........
EDIT: The chassis has more flex in MM than in RM because that huge side pod brace is not used. This was the first thing I noticed on the bench. Also on all extended chassis that run spacers. Without the key that locks the side pods to the front section, enables the car to flex more as well. I tend to lock down these four button head screws and then backoff a half turn or so to help induce this. That alone should help with rear traction.
EDIT: The chassis has more flex in MM than in RM because that huge side pod brace is not used. This was the first thing I noticed on the bench. Also on all extended chassis that run spacers. Without the key that locks the side pods to the front section, enables the car to flex more as well. I tend to lock down these four button head screws and then backoff a half turn or so to help induce this. That alone should help with rear traction.
04-13-2013, 06:49 AM
Hey guys chassis just came back from hard coating. I believe I PM'd everyone that had a deposit. If I missed you please pm me again. I will start shipping out after remaining balance is paid. Thanks again for your patience. I included some pics. The last two are of my +10 with the +8 body. Just elongated the body post holes a bit.
Do you have any of them chassis non-hard coated/ powder coated? If so how much?
04-13-2013, 08:34 AM
Hard coat what is it? Developed more than forty years ago, hard coat is an electrochemical process that involves placing an aluminum part into an electrolytic bath and applying electrical current through the bath. This process forms an oxide coating (sapphire-hard) on the aluminum part. The oxide coating is built up by a process of anodic oxidation in a cooled acid electrolyte, thus preventing any thermal or physical distortion of precision-engineered components. This oxide coating can be harder than case hardened steel and provide excellent abrasion resistance; it is protective to the aluminum part and can be very durable.
The thickness of the hard coated piece is very closely controlled and is applied to a wide variety of parts to suit applications from many industries. Secondary treatments such as impregnation with solid film lubricants and colored dyes are available.
Power coating is paint..basically. It's thicker and does not protect as well as "hard coating" (anodizing).
04-13-2013, 09:16 AM
No it's not the same..and I quote:
Hard coat what is it? Developed more than forty years ago, hard coat is an electrochemical process that involves placing an aluminum part into an electrolytic bath and applying electrical current through the bath. This process forms an oxide coating (sapphire-hard) on the aluminum part. The oxide coating is built up by a process of anodic oxidation in a cooled acid electrolyte, thus preventing any thermal or physical distortion of precision-engineered components. This oxide coating can be harder than case hardened steel and provide excellent abrasion resistance; it is protective to the aluminum part and can be very durable.
The thickness of the hard coated piece is very closely controlled and is applied to a wide variety of parts to suit applications from many industries. Secondary treatments such as impregnation with solid film lubricants and colored dyes are available.
Power coating is paint..basically. It's thicker and does not protect as well as "hard coating" (anodizing).
Hard coat what is it? Developed more than forty years ago, hard coat is an electrochemical process that involves placing an aluminum part into an electrolytic bath and applying electrical current through the bath. This process forms an oxide coating (sapphire-hard) on the aluminum part. The oxide coating is built up by a process of anodic oxidation in a cooled acid electrolyte, thus preventing any thermal or physical distortion of precision-engineered components. This oxide coating can be harder than case hardened steel and provide excellent abrasion resistance; it is protective to the aluminum part and can be very durable.
The thickness of the hard coated piece is very closely controlled and is applied to a wide variety of parts to suit applications from many industries. Secondary treatments such as impregnation with solid film lubricants and colored dyes are available.
Power coating is paint..basically. It's thicker and does not protect as well as "hard coating" (anodizing).
04-13-2013, 09:27 AM
It's the least I could do..your doing the DEX210 community an awsoume service by providing a nice reasonably priced chassis..thanks..I will be buying one soon..I just bought a new bike and all my $$ went to a down payment..
04-13-2013, 11:37 AM
A bike? I hope you mean a motor cycle and not a bicycle. You, bigb, and Carlton can go down to the skate park and ride bikes together 
04-13-2013, 12:32 PM
04-13-2013, 12:41 PM
what email adress do I need from hobbico when I need customerservice ?
04-14-2013, 09:39 AM
04-14-2013, 01:16 PM
I ran MM4 on slick-mid grip clay and just switched to RM4. MM4 I had a decent setup and positioned best ae 3rd or 4th in 17.5 class. I lost a lot of responsiveness getting enough traction to the rear though, it kept unloading too quickly and required keeping on the gas through turns. Not to say some workup on suspension wouldnt have helped but I figured Id try rear motor before I went crazy to see the difference.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.
04-14-2013, 10:32 PM
Im using the +8 dimec with Bmans braces on astro with the shocks on the rear and loving it!!
04-14-2013, 11:29 PM
So you guys setup is rear motor with 4 gears?