Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
My car keeps wearing out outdrives, particularly the nut side drive. The funny thing is that its the braking direction that c's out rather than the drive side. Has anyone noticed this same thing, or have any ideas as to why the outdrives don't wear evenly?
Tech Master
iTrader: (72)
I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Can a couple of you fine folks please post some of your cars with the lids off? I'm getting a 210 soon and I'd like some ideas for clean wiring.
Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
Did you do anything other than that? (like add any shims to the shock mount at the tower or make adjustments to the position of the arm on the hinge pin?)
Rear shock mounting worked as i thought! Big success on the same setup with just the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arm. Last friday i was lucky to pull a 10.9sec lap. Last night was pulling 10.2 laps! This was on dusty small track med traction dirt/clay mix. The car was way more stable on power and still retained proper rotation.
jonu
You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
I put a little lock tite on my servo screw and i haven't stripped the plastic horn and I run a Savox 1257. The 1251 gears are not titanium it's just a metal gear set.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
You may wanna buy some spare plastic servo horns I have the 1251 and i stripped the gears soon after I replaced a striped plastic horn with aluminum just not thinking about it being weaker than the titanium and now I had to replace the gears in the servo ,,, and wouldn't moving the shocks to the back just change the point where the weight is over the rear tires just like if you had a heavyier motor or RR block with a shorty lipo compared to full size
I also bet that during acceleration the arms are twisting, and they will twist differently depending on if the damper is attached in the front or the rear.
And of course you will be moving the damper mass. Which effect that makes the biggest difference is the big question I guess.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (45)
It all depends on what you do I guess. If you flip the arms, you will create a slightly longer wheel base, provided that you don't change your hub shimming.
I also bet that during acceleration the arms are twisting, and they will twist differently depending on if the damper is attached in the front or the rear.
And of course you will be moving the damper mass. Which effect that makes the biggest difference is the big question I guess.
I also bet that during acceleration the arms are twisting, and they will twist differently depending on if the damper is attached in the front or the rear.
And of course you will be moving the damper mass. Which effect that makes the biggest difference is the big question I guess.
I got a 210 when they were first released and both the outdrives lasted a long time. In recent months I'm lucky if I get 3 race day's on just the one side. As an experiment I flipped the diff around to see if the same side wore out or the same outdrive wore out, turns out the same outdrive wore out. There is clearly a manufacturing issue with that 1 side outdrive.