zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

On a side note, i upgraded my rear shock shafts to the ti-nitrate ones. This is an option part and i found them to be 3mm shorter than stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-Set-Gold-2

After they were mounted i noticed the driveshafts were further in on the outdrives at full extension. But even before the upgrade i did not have any outdrive issues.

The Czechexican

iTrader: (1)

So when using the rear ball stud mount from tresrey does it shorten the rear camber link even in the inside hole?

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Nope. It lines up perfectly over the original hole. The only difference is that instead of the ball cup mounting on the stud from the top down, it is now mounted from the bottom up onto the Tresrey part.

Take a look at the pics of my 210 in my profile album. If have a top down shot where you can see the inner holes on the Tresrey mount are directly above the mounting holes on the tranny.

majorsmx521

iTrader: (44)

RCshoxs makes a very trick fix? with extra camber holes
worth checking out

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, looks like I'll probably give the HT pads a try, I'll never run anything schumacher

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

I may go this option, as I noticed today I bent a rear shock shaft as well.

Kinda bummed, looks like fixing the diff won't be cheap, no matter what option I go.

CRFXXXT

iTrader: (89)

I am giving the DEX210 and 410 a try, they will be here tomorrow. I had a couple questions:

Which shock shafts do I want to run? Do I want to run the ti ni black or ti ni gold?
Are most running the 1.3/1.4 tapered pistons, or shall I just drill the blanks that come in the shock piston kit?

Thanks
Dave

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Hey Dave, I run the black, my kid uses the gold that came with the dex410v3 kit. Both are nice. Either way wit the pistons, plug the drilled ones with CA and toothpicks, or drill the blanks..I haven't tried the tapered, but would like to..

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

Anyone know if the Finnisher body fits the +8 chassis?

P6

iTrader: (5)

is their any disadvantage to ball studs not being titanium i can get tlr22 super duty titanium turnbuckles with cups then tlr22 studs for $46.38 vs the $79.99 for the dex210 kit, studs are different lengths but no reason not to work that i can see im starting to get play and popped cups so ill probably change them soon and i could always replace the studs if they ever snap for alot cheaper than other broken parts might cost

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

It fits, but its not perfect..The side pods on the +8 chassis has bumps that are not designed into the Finnisher..
Ti studs are stronger, but more $$. If you are concerned about breaking the steel ones, or have already, then thats your fix. I have been running the stock ballstuds and cups, and had no issues, no popoff's and very little play, maybe it has to do with pre-assembly. It has been mentioned plenty of times, but most use a 3mm tap before assembling them, and you can almost adjust them by hand..

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

I little ea black grease on the threads makes a difference too.. at least for me.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Yes, the Finnisher does fit the +8mm body. The only thing is the side pods are a little different than the side pods that are used Alum. chassis. So there mite be some tight spot with the body hitting the chassis. I have all three bodies for the DEX210(Proline, Jconcepts and Stock Cab forward +8 body).
Dave

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Speaking of Finnisher body's, I have a really nice custom painted one FOR SALE HERE!

P6

iTrader: (5)

no concern about breaking them thats why i want cheaper and the ones on my dex came with when i bough are purple turnbuckles and i did rebuild them with grease because they were tight but their popping im guessing partly from the pliers ridges on the sides that make the cup tear drop shaped and since its cold here i would preffer to leave some weak points so i dont make it to hard on F/R hubs or the steering knuckle