silvalis

iTrader: (29)

How many twists does your ball diff spring have? All of the pictures I see on the durango site have 3 twists. The two springs I have have 4 twists. Having a lot of trouble with getting the diff right, it's like the diff spring is too long.

oof, but you get the idea...
Slipper spring, new diff spring, old diff spring, zx5 diff spring

IMG_0050 by silvalis, on Flickr

Spring off the durango site
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/wp-...ush-spring.jpg

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

Do you have a part # for the knuckle? Is it available yet?
Thanks!

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

What do you mean when you say "right"? It not getting tight enough?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

If I set it loose similar to my RB5 the end of the axle hits the diff bolt and the diff slips.
If i screw it down tight enough to clear the axle, the diff is too tight and I have zero diff action. I actually tried to run it earlier and I think I flattened the diff balls because it was so tight.

This is following that diff build guide on the website too.. I've rebuilt this several times and ordered the new diff screw/spring because I initially thought the spring was too long.

This means I've checked and rechecked the thrust washer, sanded the plates, etc, etc...

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

How are you breaking it in? If you used stock balls and tried to tighten it to where the nut sits flush in the outdrive all at once, you very well could have flat spotted the balls. During break in it usually takes 4-5 times of "running it in" and tightening a little bit after to actually get it tight enough

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

+1. And also, if you suspect the clip was compressed too long, replace it.. I have had an issue with my last diff build with a faulty clip. I thought it was good, but after replacing it with another one. No problems. Also, pick some clips up from Mcmaster, a bag of 50 clips is just as cheap as a small TD bag.

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

Td330382 for $4.50 and it is available!

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Looks like this is all that is needed for the 12mm hex fronts. I just compiled it from what J. Harris posted but with links to the parts.
Steering Knuckle:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNYC&P=7

Axle Shaft:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-RB5-WC-2

Axle Spacers:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Axle-Spacers

Wheele Nuts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Gold-4

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!! That is exactly what I used!

Garnold

iTrader: (51)

Sorry for stepping in late but what is this conversion for?

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

If you look on page back there is a picture. It is the front hex option for the 210.

Garnold

iTrader: (51)

Thank you. That it pretty cool. I'm guessing you would have to buy new front wheels to support this correct?

Really cool idea!

Also, is the 12mm hex the standard for this size buggy and 14mm for a 4wd buggy? My 410 has the upgraded 14mm hex on it when I bought it and that seems to be the standard. Sorry about this dumb ones

JeremyHarris

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you would need a 12mm hex front wheel such as the B4.1, Kyosho, Team C wheels all fit. They're more "standard". You can also use the JC adapter on the rear to run 12mm hex wheels on the rear, that way you can run the 12mm wheels all the way around. I prefer this, not only because I happen to have a ton of 12mm wheels but because I can be at a race and borrow a wheel more easily... Ha

Durango uses 14mm hexes on their 2x and 4x buggies. All other companies use 12mm with the exception of Losi who uses a 10mm hex on the front of the 22. I wish everyone would just come out with a standard wheel/offset...

Garnold

iTrader: (51)

Nice!

And again, 14mm is more the standard for a 4wd buggy like my 410 correct?

If I did this could I share wheels with my buddies 22?

mihaelbencek

Hi there

With which pinion you would start with a 9,5 turn engine on a medium size, mid traction track with stock spur?