murky123

upgrades under way to my dex210.

10 grams brass ackermanbar
brass topdeck bushings ( together 8 grams )
rear carbon tower
rear carbon camber link plate
aluminium 14mm wheel hex
gear diff

cant wait !!

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

Got it on the track this morning and it felt good... couple things is I have less control brake wise over jumps but no big deal.

Gonna change the anit squat to 1.5 running 3 now and it may be a bit much. Also dropping the front springs to Lt. blue from Lt. red to get a bit more front bit in the turns.

Any thoughts to get a bit more front end bite?
running 4* trailing and may drop it to 3* or move my caster from 30* to 20*.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

Are there any ill effects to running full forward axle and full forward caster block?

Most people I talk to and also looking at several online setups, I don't see anything but caster blocks always full forward.

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

The only reason to move the hub back when you move the axle forward is to keep the wheelbase the same and to keep the wheel position the same relative to weight balance..... moving the axle forward only moves the wheel forward, it does not change the steering geometry like some have said. When you move the caster block back, then the steering geometry starts changing.

If you move just the wheels forward, then it puts the wheel more in front of the front shocks which changes how the weight transfers, if you move the hub back the same amount, then the wheel is in the same position as previously so the weight balance should remain the same, only the geometry changes.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

So, that being said, is it a must to change the hub position along with axle position?

Yellow Wheels

No, every one of Jorns setups on the Durango site uses 3mm trailing axle with the hub all the way forward.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I ran the axle in the full trailing position and did not change the caster block from a previous #2 position. It would lock up the front wheel in full turn. Push wagon!

goBezerk

iTrader: (10)

For me, I found dropping the front spring rate one at a time to get the steering you desire made the most difference, then when you've gone too far you can either go back up a spring or fine tune with the hub position. With MM4 I'm still using the Lt Blues out back and back and fourthing with the Lt reds and the blacks up front. It has crazy steering with the rears all the way in on the arm and the blacks out front. FWIW, I dont run any extra weight except to offset the esc and a shorty pack jammed all the way back...

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

I also don't often use anti squat as the first setting to change when looking for steering. For me personally anti squat is more of a jumping and rear traction tool in regard to forward and side bite.

If you need more on power steering stiffer rear springs, standing up your rear shocks, reducing front droop, adding weight to the front of the car will all help that cause.

"Steering" really needs to be broken down to on/off power, in/out of the corner,etc.

egilliland23

iTrader: (8)

Is anyone having problems with their shocks leaking? Mine seem to leak quite a bit. What can i do to fix this?

Thanks

cm.stites

make sure you didnt overtighten the bottom caps . if you tighten them to far the orings compress and lose thier seal.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

How long have you been running them? Shocks seals are a wear item and if you have had them in for a while and they recently started leaking it's time to replace them. If they're new they should not leak at all.

egilliland23

iTrader: (8)

I have run the shocks 3 race days. I will try rebuilding them and loosening the caps a little.

slow_jun

iTrader: (14)

get the kyosho oring the clear one, they have two types, the other one is the less fricion (X) been running since end last year and no leak what so ever... did the same for the x ring of 410.. no leaking till now...

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

So I have been playing with the rear shock mod. I started with the hubs centered, shock on back, then I went to hubs foward, then I modified the rear arm to mount the shock on the front side of the flipped arm by adding a hole in the same position of the middle hole on the original spot. I played with the anti squat block also, switching from 2-3*. My conclusion for me is the car drives more consistent in the ORIGINAL layout with the shocks foward. I think the axle moves too much rearward, takes too much weight away from the rear of the car, shifting it foward, therefore decreasing the planted feel. I was consistently over rotating no matter the change in the car. I could not muster a better position than my qualifying postition in the main. That stinked....

The plus was, it looked longer on the track. It jumped a little better, but that was abot it. I think I could sacrifice for the stability.