rcman182006

iTrader: (15)

that's such a sigh of relief on the screws (I have a small collection of randoms), mines from the 2nd batch as well, I've been studying the digital manual front to back, shock and diff are about the only things I'm nervous about, Im switching over from Kyosho stuff so if its similar (the shocks primarily) I should be alright

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Diff is no problem just orientate the circlip correctly and only squeeze it enough to get it (that's what she said...). I went full ceramics in the diff. One other thing you might try is flipping the rear hubs. Put the left on the right and vise versa. This eliminates the extreme angle of the tierods in the back. Another point is to keep the screws loose for the side pods, steering rack holder and front side pod pieces. the front side pod pieces do not quite line up if you tighten them up initially. It's a fun build and the inaugural race for mine will be tomorrow!

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys please help me out. I am not a complete expert on ball difs and slipper clutches. I have a problem. I do the whole build and everything goes together great. I break the diffs in on the workbench and go out to drive the car for the first time. I hit the gas and the car barely moves and something is slipping sounds like the slipper clutch. I go to tighten it down and when i twist on the nut, it spins the whole shaft and you can see the outer plate on the slipper pad turning with it. What am I doing wrong here? Any chance it might be the diff instead. It is fine holding the car up in the air, but as soon as you put it on the ground it really will not go anywhere? What is th edeal?

chiatw73

iTrader: (5)

likely the circlip poped out.. flip it and it should be ok?

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Check to make sure you have the metal cross pin that goes in the slipper shaft. It keys into the outer slipper hub.

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

Yes the pin is in it. I was affraid the clip came out and was thinking that was it or something else wrong with the diff. Oh boy, I guess I wiull be tearing this whole thing apart tonight!!!! Yes I know it has been talked about, but do not feel like going back and looking for it as it is late. Refresh my mind on which way the circlip goes in as far as the stamped edge goes?

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

NICE!! Feel free to send me a pair to test for you..

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Smaller washer first, caged thrust, bigger washer, then circlip with rounded edge against the thrust washer.....

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

All right, I am taking it out tomorrow as I am pretty sure it was the circlip that is causing the problem. Thanks for the help.

brandundecided

iTrader: (9)

I cant find a post on it. How do you asseble the shock cap on the body without pushing out the o-ring?

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

You tighten it hand tight....it doesn't need to be cranked down. I just went over this with a new 210 owner last night at the track. He had the same problem with the o-rings. I went over, assembled one of his shocks for him as he watched. O-ring didnt push out and no leaks...he assembled the other three and I didnt hear from him the rest of the night about it . Hand tight is all you need..if feel you need tools then its too tight!

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

No worries!

rsawyers9

iTrader: (7)

Make sure you put pressure on the outer slipper plate until you get enough tension in the spring to hold it tight. Just push against the slipper plate with your hand as you're tightening the slipper nut. If you dont do this the slipper will slip and the nut will never tighten.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

oh yeah! it is built and ready for testing tomorrow!
VERY nice kit, the dif is superb, best engineered ball dif i have seen. the only thing i dont like about the kit is the ballcups, i cant even adjust the camber without them popping off, kinda pisses me off that i am going to have to buy better ones but no biggie, the rest of the car makes up for it!

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

The ball cups are fine.... They just need to be worked in a little before you put them on the car....I can adjust mine just fine and easily on the car and I still have yet to pop one off while racing or practicing......my friend even commented after seeing a few of my "mishaps" during one of my qualifiers, "I thought people were having problems with ball cups popping off easily?"

You just need to work the turnbuckle back and forth in the ballcups a few times during assembly to get the threads cut into the plastic real good. Also tighten past the assembled length specified in the manual and then back off to where it "should" be. A touch of black grease or vaseline, etc wouldnt hurt during assembly but I didnt do it. Just dont use a driver through the hole in the end of the cup as a "T" wrench as I feel it will slightly stretch/deform the ball cup slightly and cause you problems