Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Addict
Lifting inside front was at end of corner entry and on apex, fine on corner exit.
3mm
front axles raised up to account for larger front tyres.
1 washer under inner ball studs.
Long front top links
30' caster
Trailing axles
Red front spring
30wt oil 6x1.2 pistons
-2' camber all round.
Black rear spring
1.5 as
Medium long rear top links.
Shocks in outer hole in wishbone.
27.5wt oil 6*1.3 pistons.
No washers under rear top links.
Shorty pack fully forward.
Just to confirm the moving the shocks in at the top stopped the tripodding, moving them out made it worse.
I had it previously with thicker oil and dialed it out by adding a front rc washer and removing the rear rc washer. Had moved to thiner oil as week before was running out side on bumpy astro.
Not sure why lowering the rear spring rate stopped it collapsing??
Just to add the I have run the same set up on astro and it handles great. The big different with running inside is the tyres, fronts are very large diameter compared with slim staggered ribs.
3mm
front axles raised up to account for larger front tyres.
1 washer under inner ball studs.
Long front top links
30' caster
Trailing axles
Red front spring
30wt oil 6x1.2 pistons
-2' camber all round.
Black rear spring
1.5 as
Medium long rear top links.
Shocks in outer hole in wishbone.
27.5wt oil 6*1.3 pistons.
No washers under rear top links.
Shorty pack fully forward.
Just to confirm the moving the shocks in at the top stopped the tripodding, moving them out made it worse.
I had it previously with thicker oil and dialed it out by adding a front rc washer and removing the rear rc washer. Had moved to thiner oil as week before was running out side on bumpy astro.
Not sure why lowering the rear spring rate stopped it collapsing??
Just to add the I have run the same set up on astro and it handles great. The big different with running inside is the tyres, fronts are very large diameter compared with slim staggered ribs.
You could stand the rear shocks back up to original position and try a firmer front spring and see if you get the same result. Could try thicker oil all around which would slow the transfer as well.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Fred,
Can you do me a favor on the rear end with the new shock bodies (29mm) on. On the right side of my buggy, when fully compressed and with tire rotation I get a slight bind from the dog bone end hitting the diff nut and it pushes the wheel down slightly. I have two Dex's and it does it on both. Wanted to know if you get that on yours with the increased up travel? It doesn't do it on the side with the screw end for adjustment.
Thank you
Can you do me a favor on the rear end with the new shock bodies (29mm) on. On the right side of my buggy, when fully compressed and with tire rotation I get a slight bind from the dog bone end hitting the diff nut and it pushes the wheel down slightly. I have two Dex's and it does it on both. Wanted to know if you get that on yours with the increased up travel? It doesn't do it on the side with the screw end for adjustment.
Thank you
Same thing happened to me when I tried to move the axles in on dog bones to get more on power steering. Unfortunately grinding the screw didn't work for me. The only fix I found was to move the axle dog bone connection to the middle hole. I didn't want to move around my camber links.
Tech Adept
x2 with yukovicv
when I took apart and cleaned up my cvd's I put the one pin in 'wrong' and it would bind. took me a few minutes to figure out why. using a gear diff.
if both of yours are binding try moving them in? not sure what effects it will have on tuning though.
wallyRC, what surface are you running on? if both you and fred are using 2 hole pistons. I might try that first before making some 4 hole ones.
when I took apart and cleaned up my cvd's I put the one pin in 'wrong' and it would bind. took me a few minutes to figure out why. using a gear diff.
if both of yours are binding try moving them in? not sure what effects it will have on tuning though.
wallyRC, what surface are you running on? if both you and fred are using 2 hole pistons. I might try that first before making some 4 hole ones.
Tech Addict
Ha ha! I'll tell you what brother, if I had the spare capital just laying around and could find a bank that would finance the remainder of a company that has not turned a profit in years, I might just take that gamble....or maybe not. The company would have to be sold cheaply in name only, with minimal assets and obviously, whatever inventory remained. Because the only way to save this brand would be to streamline everything and start over. Plus who knows what liabilities they carry.
In short, I want to enjoy my young retirement. Not die early from stress and frustration that resulted from taking on a sinking company in a market as finicky as the rc race world. The original designers bailed, what does that say?
In short, I want to enjoy my young retirement. Not die early from stress and frustration that resulted from taking on a sinking company in a market as finicky as the rc race world. The original designers bailed, what does that say?
Tech Addict
x2 with yukovicv
when I took apart and cleaned up my cvd's I put the one pin in 'wrong' and it would bind. took me a few minutes to figure out why. using a gear diff.
if both of yours are binding try moving them in? not sure what effects it will have on tuning though.
wallyRC, what surface are you running on? if both you and fred are using 2 hole pistons. I might try that first before making some 4 hole ones.
when I took apart and cleaned up my cvd's I put the one pin in 'wrong' and it would bind. took me a few minutes to figure out why. using a gear diff.
if both of yours are binding try moving them in? not sure what effects it will have on tuning though.
wallyRC, what surface are you running on? if both you and fred are using 2 hole pistons. I might try that first before making some 4 hole ones.
2x1.5 F/ 2x1.6 R
I am running V2. Don't have the adjustable rear axles. They only bind a wee bit at full compression. I never noticed it driving. Just was checking it out with all this up travel talk and the right side wouldn't go up as far as the left, turned the wheel a little and it went all the way. Took me a while to see it was the bone rubbing the diff nut. Only when the bone is vertical. Probably wouldn't happen w/gear diff.
Tech Adept
Ha ha! I'll tell you what brother, if I had the spare capital just laying around and could find a bank that would finance the remainder of a company that has not turned a profit in years, I might just take that gamble....or maybe not. The company would have to be sold cheaply in name only, with minimal assets and obviously, whatever inventory remained. Because the only way to save this brand would be to streamline everything and start over. Plus who knows what liabilities they carry.
In short, I want to enjoy my young retirement. Not die early from stress and frustration that resulted from taking on a sinking company in a market as finicky as the rc race world. The original designers bailed, what does that say?
In short, I want to enjoy my young retirement. Not die early from stress and frustration that resulted from taking on a sinking company in a market as finicky as the rc race world. The original designers bailed, what does that say?
enjoy retirement man. I think the only person capable of saving durango would be elon musk, and maybe oprah.
wally rc. thanks I will try the 2 hole pistons first.
Tech Addict
BODY BODY BODY!
Solution found for the hard to find bodies:
DEX210V2 cab forward
DEX210V3
DEX410V5
DEST210R. YES. DEST
and any other Durango body that we can't get anymore.
This will be a permanent solution. They will be made to order and available always.
Now the catch, I need to send them uncut bodies for anything we need them to have. I unfortunately cut all mine to use this season. They only do new molds in the winter, cutoff date for this year is March 31st..Im going to try and meet this deadline even if I have to buy NIB kits to pillage from. This would be easier though if I can find just the body's again. Team Blue Groove out of Canada will send the body's I give them back, along with samples of the reproductions, so I would be able to give the body's back to who ever can help here. If we can't meet the deadline we'll have to wait until next winter. THIS WILL SOLVE OUR ISSUES PERMANENTLY!
They are a solid company that has been in business for a long time. I've been buying repro bodies from them for my Tamiya and RC10's for a long time. The repro's are as good as the originals, sometimes a little stronger.
PM me if you can help.
Like I said, if we can't come up with at least the DEX210V3, DEX410V5 and DEST210R by the last couple of days in this month, I'll bite the bullet and buy those kits NIB and raid them. I'd rather not have to do that though, I've got enough spares parts already.
DEX210V2 cab forward
DEX210V3
DEX410V5
DEST210R. YES. DEST
and any other Durango body that we can't get anymore.
This will be a permanent solution. They will be made to order and available always.
Now the catch, I need to send them uncut bodies for anything we need them to have. I unfortunately cut all mine to use this season. They only do new molds in the winter, cutoff date for this year is March 31st..Im going to try and meet this deadline even if I have to buy NIB kits to pillage from. This would be easier though if I can find just the body's again. Team Blue Groove out of Canada will send the body's I give them back, along with samples of the reproductions, so I would be able to give the body's back to who ever can help here. If we can't meet the deadline we'll have to wait until next winter. THIS WILL SOLVE OUR ISSUES PERMANENTLY!
They are a solid company that has been in business for a long time. I've been buying repro bodies from them for my Tamiya and RC10's for a long time. The repro's are as good as the originals, sometimes a little stronger.
PM me if you can help.
Like I said, if we can't come up with at least the DEX210V3, DEX410V5 and DEST210R by the last couple of days in this month, I'll bite the bullet and buy those kits NIB and raid them. I'd rather not have to do that though, I've got enough spares parts already.
Solution found for the hard to find bodies:
DEX210V2 cab forward
DEX210V3
DEX410V5
DEST210R. YES. DEST
and any other Durango body that we can't get anymore.
This will be a permanent solution. They will be made to order and available always.
Now the catch, I need to send them uncut bodies for anything we need them to have. I unfortunately cut all mine to use this season. They only do new molds in the winter, cutoff date for this year is March 31st..Im going to try and meet this deadline even if I have to buy NIB kits to pillage from. This would be easier though if I can find just the body's again. Team Blue Groove out of Canada will send the body's I give them back, along with samples of the reproductions, so I would be able to give the body's back to who ever can help here. If we can't meet the deadline we'll have to wait until next winter. THIS WILL SOLVE OUR ISSUES PERMANENTLY!
They are a solid company that has been in business for a long time. I've been buying repro bodies from them for my Tamiya and RC10's for a long time. The repro's are as good as the originals, sometimes a little stronger.
PM me if you can help.
Like I said, if we can't come up with at least the DEX210V3, DEX410V5 and DEST210R by the last couple of days in this month, I'll bite the bullet and buy those kits NIB and raid them. I'd rather not have to do that though, I've got enough spares parts already.
DEX210V2 cab forward
DEX210V3
DEX410V5
DEST210R. YES. DEST
and any other Durango body that we can't get anymore.
This will be a permanent solution. They will be made to order and available always.
Now the catch, I need to send them uncut bodies for anything we need them to have. I unfortunately cut all mine to use this season. They only do new molds in the winter, cutoff date for this year is March 31st..Im going to try and meet this deadline even if I have to buy NIB kits to pillage from. This would be easier though if I can find just the body's again. Team Blue Groove out of Canada will send the body's I give them back, along with samples of the reproductions, so I would be able to give the body's back to who ever can help here. If we can't meet the deadline we'll have to wait until next winter. THIS WILL SOLVE OUR ISSUES PERMANENTLY!
They are a solid company that has been in business for a long time. I've been buying repro bodies from them for my Tamiya and RC10's for a long time. The repro's are as good as the originals, sometimes a little stronger.
PM me if you can help.
Like I said, if we can't come up with at least the DEX210V3, DEX410V5 and DEST210R by the last couple of days in this month, I'll bite the bullet and buy those kits NIB and raid them. I'd rather not have to do that though, I've got enough spares parts already.
Tech Adept
team blue groove eh. I bought some 1/18 bodies from them. they made a buggy conversion for the mini-t going back a decade.
from what I remember from one18th.com the guy had one of the greatest back yard tracks I'd ever seen.
It's likely, probably have to ask, but he could make other bodies fit. I will be using a losi xxx body for the rest of the season and it fits pretty good on the chassis.
from what I remember from one18th.com the guy had one of the greatest back yard tracks I'd ever seen.
It's likely, probably have to ask, but he could make other bodies fit. I will be using a losi xxx body for the rest of the season and it fits pretty good on the chassis.
Tech Addict
I only approached them regarding Team Durango bodies. Specifically the ones listed above. DEX210V1, DESC210 and DESC410 body's are everywhere.
Not sure about the buggies but yes, aftermarket bodies can be made to fit the Dest210. I've done it and posted about it in the DEST thread. But the original Durango body fits better and has a very distinctive "Durango" look to it. That matters to some people. Either way, the DEX210V3 and DEX410V5 are current release, highly competitive cars....and we can't get bodies for them. I know I had to buy a used one off a member here and then spend $$$ on bodies from Germany for the DEST and DEX410V5.
This solves the issue forever, well as long as they're in business.
This costs nothing but postage, send them to me and I'll put it all together, overnight them to TBG. Then when they return them to me, I'll send the original body and a new one back to the donors for free. From then on you can order them from TBG via EBay. I've got a bunch of messages so hopefully we can get this going. Body's have been my #1 problem with Team Durango vehicles.
The way it works with TBG is:
They keep molds of hundreds of vehicles. When you buy one they get the mold, cast your bodies and send them to you. Usually takes a week or two. The polycarbonate is extremely high quality and comes with a translucent blue paint shield on the outside. No window masks from what I've seen from them but that's easy to do with masking tape.
Here's a link to their store. This is where you will be able to get the bodies from.
TEAM BLUEGROOVE | eBay Stores
Disclaimer : I am not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just a customer who has bought a lot of body's from them and I've been completely satisfied with what I received. Like you, I want nice body's on my Team Durango racecars, Team Blue Groove offered to help and pick up where Durango left off. Anyway, let me get to my messages. Hopefully we can get this done.
Not sure about the buggies but yes, aftermarket bodies can be made to fit the Dest210. I've done it and posted about it in the DEST thread. But the original Durango body fits better and has a very distinctive "Durango" look to it. That matters to some people. Either way, the DEX210V3 and DEX410V5 are current release, highly competitive cars....and we can't get bodies for them. I know I had to buy a used one off a member here and then spend $$$ on bodies from Germany for the DEST and DEX410V5.
This solves the issue forever, well as long as they're in business.
This costs nothing but postage, send them to me and I'll put it all together, overnight them to TBG. Then when they return them to me, I'll send the original body and a new one back to the donors for free. From then on you can order them from TBG via EBay. I've got a bunch of messages so hopefully we can get this going. Body's have been my #1 problem with Team Durango vehicles.
The way it works with TBG is:
They keep molds of hundreds of vehicles. When you buy one they get the mold, cast your bodies and send them to you. Usually takes a week or two. The polycarbonate is extremely high quality and comes with a translucent blue paint shield on the outside. No window masks from what I've seen from them but that's easy to do with masking tape.
Here's a link to their store. This is where you will be able to get the bodies from.
TEAM BLUEGROOVE | eBay Stores
Disclaimer : I am not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just a customer who has bought a lot of body's from them and I've been completely satisfied with what I received. Like you, I want nice body's on my Team Durango racecars, Team Blue Groove offered to help and pick up where Durango left off. Anyway, let me get to my messages. Hopefully we can get this done.
Tech Adept
I will second the reputation on team blue groove. and their canadian, so you know he doesn't f around.
I have to agree with alan about the particular look of the durango body. I have a v1 body, and one of the cab forward ones.... the v1 body is soooo much nicer than the cab forward ones.
browsing his site, that old predator T tech body would look pretty sick sitting atop my exotek chassis.
T TECH PREDATOR BODY TENTH TECHNOLOGY VINTAGE FULL LENGTH LONG BODY | eBay
I have to agree with alan about the particular look of the durango body. I have a v1 body, and one of the cab forward ones.... the v1 body is soooo much nicer than the cab forward ones.
browsing his site, that old predator T tech body would look pretty sick sitting atop my exotek chassis.
T TECH PREDATOR BODY TENTH TECHNOLOGY VINTAGE FULL LENGTH LONG BODY | eBay
Wish i had a v5 body to send in but i just had the one that came with the kit and it's already cut.
In regards to driveshaft length, there are apparently 3 lengths, 60mm, 62.5mm, and 65mm. That explains why some have problems hitting the diff nut on uptravel and others don't.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I think I have a new DEST body somwhere.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Edit: never mind. Found the manual supplement sheet. It's 65mm dog bone one the most inner hole for most in power steering. This is the set up that binds for me
Last edited by Vujkovicv; 03-17-2017 at 02:52 PM.