New Xerun 150a/80a esc-motor combo's
#1292
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
After replacing my old combo with the new xerun sensored combo 150a esc and 4274sd motor I really can't tell much of a difference. What's going on.
I have e-revo 68/17 gearing. 2 2s turnigy 30c 5000mah. I'm about to have pro line 40 series big joes tomorrow. Is my gearing way off or something? When I full throttle it barely lifts off ground and I have punch to 6. I think 75% reverse. Everything else default.
And on another note. Why do I lose sensored on my setup as soon as I full trottle. I get two flashing lihts red/green same time. Do I have a bad set or are my settings wrong? It was a new set from hoobypartz
I have e-revo 68/17 gearing. 2 2s turnigy 30c 5000mah. I'm about to have pro line 40 series big joes tomorrow. Is my gearing way off or something? When I full throttle it barely lifts off ground and I have punch to 6. I think 75% reverse. Everything else default.
And on another note. Why do I lose sensored on my setup as soon as I full trottle. I get two flashing lihts red/green same time. Do I have a bad set or are my settings wrong? It was a new set from hoobypartz
#1293
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Field report
Well I took my new 150A ESC (purchased from RC fans88) out for a spin this weekend at Dirt Burners in St. Louis. As it says in my sig I'm running it on 6s with a Tekin 1350 Kv truggy motor in my D8T conversion. Ambient temp was about 60 degrees. After a 20 minute run (my packs are 6s 5000 mAh ) the motor temp was about 120 and the ESC was barely warm, about 70 degrees according to the temp gun. The current draw on 6s is clearly pretty low as evidenced by the long run times so perhaps the low ESC temp shouldn't be that surprising. I was thinking about getting the programmer to update the firmware but whatever version it came with is very smooth with the Tekin motor. So the programmer will not be necessary. Last but not least, the internal BEC had zero problems powering the 7955 in my truggy. So basically, thumbs up.
#1294
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Well I took my new 150A ESC (purchased from RC fans88) out for a spin this weekend at Dirt Burners in St. Louis. As it says in my sig I'm running it on 6s with a Tekin 1350 Kv truggy motor in my D8T conversion. Ambient temp was about 60 degrees. After a 20 minute run (my packs are 6s 5000 mAh ) the motor temp was about 120 and the ESC was barely warm, about 70 degrees according to the temp gun. The current draw on 6s is clearly pretty low as evidenced by the long run times so perhaps the low ESC temp shouldn't be that surprising. I was thinking about getting the programmer to update the firmware but whatever version it came with is very smooth with the Tekin motor. So the programmer will not be necessary. Last but not least, the internal BEC had zero problems powering the 7955 in my truggy. So basically, thumbs up.
I've got the same combo for my truggy for longer mains and found the same thing, nice and cool and really smooth. I have to admit though, that it kinda feels like cheating when all the other E truggies have to do a pack change at 10 minutes. I'm yet to fully exploit this advantage as i mainly went this way to show it to the nitros but lately we've been running an E truggy class and i dont want to be seen as cheating.
#1295
Tech Initiate
Anyone know what firmware to use since there are many options in the drop down list,not interested in any turbo or related features.
#1296
The USB link software will recognize the hardware which is connected, and will only show the relevant firmwares available.
#1297
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I think this is the way to go in E truggy. The efficiency and cool running of 6S / low KV combos is hard to deny and the Xerun 150A handles it with ease.
I've got the same combo for my truggy for longer mains and found the same thing, nice and cool and really smooth. I have to admit though, that it kinda feels like cheating when all the other E truggies have to do a pack change at 10 minutes. I'm yet to fully exploit this advantage as i mainly went this way to show it to the nitros but lately we've been running an E truggy class and i dont want to be seen as cheating.
I've got the same combo for my truggy for longer mains and found the same thing, nice and cool and really smooth. I have to admit though, that it kinda feels like cheating when all the other E truggies have to do a pack change at 10 minutes. I'm yet to fully exploit this advantage as i mainly went this way to show it to the nitros but lately we've been running an E truggy class and i dont want to be seen as cheating.
#1298
Tech Initiate
So which of those options to choose out of those 3 and is there any improvements compared to my current version is V1.00_100912A_2R .
#1299
Tech Apprentice
great thread and really informative, having read through most of the 87 pages, i decided to change the electrics in my caster fusion.
I did have the ezrun sc8 combo - 120a esc and 2700kv motor - which was rather quick and slightly over-kill i reckon.
Anyway, i've picked up a 4168sl motor (2250kv) and now need to decide on the esc to run with it. I loved the old SC8 esc due to its programming options and the small footprint - allowing for perfect placement on the esc tray in my buggy. I now need to decide which esc to get...
1) xerun 80a esc
2) ezrun 120a sc8 esc
i'd only ever be running 4s, through the 2250kv motor, geared at 15/44 or 14/44 with 5000mah 35c lipo packs. So you could say the 120a would be overkill where the 80a would be spot on?
any input or suggestions welcome (including about my gearing as well if need be)
thanks
I did have the ezrun sc8 combo - 120a esc and 2700kv motor - which was rather quick and slightly over-kill i reckon.
Anyway, i've picked up a 4168sl motor (2250kv) and now need to decide on the esc to run with it. I loved the old SC8 esc due to its programming options and the small footprint - allowing for perfect placement on the esc tray in my buggy. I now need to decide which esc to get...
1) xerun 80a esc
2) ezrun 120a sc8 esc
i'd only ever be running 4s, through the 2250kv motor, geared at 15/44 or 14/44 with 5000mah 35c lipo packs. So you could say the 120a would be overkill where the 80a would be spot on?
any input or suggestions welcome (including about my gearing as well if need be)
thanks
Last edited by jefferson; 11-02-2011 at 06:44 AM. Reason: typo
#1300
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
great thread and really informative, having read through most of the 87 pages, i decided to change the electrics in my caster fusion.
I did have the ezrun sc8 combo - 120a esc and 2700kv motor - which was rather quick and slightly over-kill i reckon.
Anyway, i've picked up a 4168sl motor (2250kv) and now need to decide on the esc to run with it. I loved the old SC8 esc due to its programming options and the small footprint - allowing for perfect placement on the esc tray in my buggy. I now need to decide which esc to get...
1) xerun 80a esc
2) ezrun 120a sc8 esc
i'd only ever be running 4s, through the 2250kv motor, geared at 15/44 or 14/44 with 5000mah 35c lipo packs. So you could say the 120a would be overkill where the 80a would be spot on?
any input or suggestions welcome (including about my gearing as well if need be)
thanks
I did have the ezrun sc8 combo - 120a esc and 2700kv motor - which was rather quick and slightly over-kill i reckon.
Anyway, i've picked up a 4168sl motor (2250kv) and now need to decide on the esc to run with it. I loved the old SC8 esc due to its programming options and the small footprint - allowing for perfect placement on the esc tray in my buggy. I now need to decide which esc to get...
1) xerun 80a esc
2) ezrun 120a sc8 esc
i'd only ever be running 4s, through the 2250kv motor, geared at 15/44 or 14/44 with 5000mah 35c lipo packs. So you could say the 120a would be overkill where the 80a would be spot on?
any input or suggestions welcome (including about my gearing as well if need be)
thanks
As I have mentioned before I currently run the unsensored version of the 80A ESC. It has been bullet proof for over 2 seasons, I would recommend the sensored 80A esc. I will be running one next outdoor season.
I run 4S only ( Caster EX1.5R) and I am geared at 15/44 with my 2050Kv. I ran a 13T pinion for a while but it was not smooth and lacked top end. I went up to a 14T and noticed a huge difference in punch, it was stronger but smoother, and the top end was unreal. I didn't run the 14T that long. I didn't notice a huge difference in punch or smoothness between going to a 15T from the 14T, the top end was a little better, TONS of speed. I have been running the 15T for over a season now and have thought about putting the 14T back on just for comparisons sake.
#1301
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for the informative reply. Ordered the 80a xerun esc in the end, should be here Friday or Saturday I reckon. Will start off with a 14t pinion and go from there, according to script asylum that gearing should yield a top end speed circa 40mph, the old 2700kv motor I had was quicker but I always felt 'afriad' to use it at its full potential, with the 4168sl and 80a I should have a decent all round and better controlled performer
#1302
If you read the .txt files included in the software, you can read what the improvements are, but they have something to do with the sensorboard, and internal temp.protection. If you don't have a problem with that, you will not find an improvement.
#1303
losi 8ight 2.0 t
i am waiting for my hw combo to turn up for a e conversion that im doing on my losi 2.0 truggy, can any losi guys tell me if i need to get long shank pinions or will stock ones be fine?
Cheers
Cheers
#1305
losi
hi i am using the losi conversion kit,