awesome! and thanks again!

hey guys , just wanted to keep you posted.We have decided to make a couple changes before the release, it wont cause a big delay, maybe 3-4 days tops.
First-,as you can see from the pics there are 2 tabs with screw holes on the motor plate.Those are for a gear cover.We are working up forms for a vac-formed gear cover right now, and should have those to include with the kits in a couple days time.They will be clear,and paintable to match your body.

Second- We will also be including a new rear hingepin block that is pre-drilled for the rear shock tower.Making our kits even more bolt on.Now the only holes the user will have to drill are the ones in the back of the R arms using the included drill pattern and drill bit, so the user can make as many sets of spare arms as they want to keep on hand.

There will be no price increase for the added peices.

The next thing I would like to address is the motor plate itself. We have had no Heat issues running the G-10 motorplates all winter long.The Heat dissapation properties of the G-10 are no different than running the Carbon fiber motor plate from Diggity for the GV2.That being said the fair weather seasons are around the corner,so an alloy one is in order to help disapate some heat.Our problem is that would require setting up a machine to run "wet". Meaning with a coolant and pump system.Our set-up for machining the g-10 is a dry system.I can set our machine up for both, but to set it up for a proper wet system will set me back another $1000.00 for the sump and containment system.So in the near future,(like 4-6 weeks) yes we will have alloy motor plates,and will try to do it with no added cost to the kits.But for now we have to issue the kits with G-10 plates.
After thinking about it I realized that by selling on ebay I will have a complete record of every kit sold, so when the alloy motor plates are available we can ship out alloy plates to those that purchased kits with G-10 motor plates.They will be an exact bolt on duplicate of the G-10 Plates, so all existing parts will be 100% compatible.
Sound like an acceptable solution??

Also, All of the G-10 chassis components are pictured for the SCT conversion.Those are actually Cain's, and will be going in a box later this afternoon and headed toward him.:nod:

Thanks for keeping us posted! Looking very nice indeed.Cool logo by the way

If you like the logo check this out! Something I whipped up on the side for a buddy. This is a battery strap for the Kyosho RB5.The engraving turned out OK for using a bit too large for the size for the lettering.But I got the right size bit today so the engraving on the production version will be much cleaner than what is pictured.

lookin good, I see no reason to go to alluminum if there is no issues with g10, the only issue I see would be stripping the motor plate (on the losi's at least, don't know how the academy ones bolt on)

and make sure that the gear cover is strong enough, I completely distroyed a older losi buggy ones that where thin clear plastic, and a slipper adjusting plu would be nice so you could adjust it before a race

I had read, more then once, that carbon fiber is actually better at displacing heat than alloy. Don't quote me on that but if thats true and you say the g-10 is comparable then you should have no problems.

we are going to pull the gear covers out of .060" material-you should be able to stand on them with out them collapsing if you want to:nod:

awesome!

nice, the only thing worse then breaking a gear cover (since it then hold dirt) is getting your finger is the gears :) as long as nothing breaks and it works good, go for it ( I even ran a body coverd in tape because it worked, it has more then destroyed under all the tape and weighed a ton, but it worked, I'll post pics of my new body.

2wdMod,
will G10 motor plate be able to cope with mid 30+ deg C air temps? while you're at the alloy motor plate matter, why not make the alloy plate thicker a bit, at say 4mm and have milled fins so it acts as a heatsink? but economically not sure how much will it add to your costing though, just a suggestion.

We have the motor plate spec'ed out with 2.5mm alloy which is still thicker than the stock academy plate.We have thought about a heatsink that bolts on to the back of the motor plate in the space above the tranny case.we are checking into a few options, so anything is possible at this point.

On the temp. question, to be honest I am not versed in C*. So I will have to check the F*to C* conversion chart and get back to you for a definite answer, but I will say we have run them in 70* F conditions and they showed only a couple * difference from other cars we ran that day that had stock alloy motor plates.

On another note- Cains SCT kit shipped out yesterday. So we should be hearing some assembly feedback from him by the end of the week.I hope he gets it together for his race on the 13th.I wish I could be there to see the smile on his face the first time he drives it.

realistically, I don't think anyone should have there buggy gered so high that 10* would make a diffrance, I run my 13.5 at 27/78 and it barely gets warm, so I have no issues even if it gets a bit warmer. 30*c here in ottawa ontario is a hot summer day, I think thats 80-90*f, so outdoors in the middle of summer

excited. Unforunately the weather isn't playing nice right now for the race, but, I will get some drive time on it regardless, even if I have to drive it on the roof!:nod:

Here is a pic of an actual production SCT chassis(AE bumper work not pictured):eek:100% CNC machined:eek: all bolted together as a sub assembly and ready for academy donor components. The greyish plastic we used for the R hingepin block ,rear bumper mount(cant see, it bolts on the back of R tower),and the front bumper strut (peice with ball studs) is an Acetal material. It is actually close to delrin and has pretty much the same properties.Stable, very resiliant,and easy to machine. All 3 peices are CNC machined from it.

You can see the battery door assembly and the thumbscrew which we made long enough so the top of it is above the top of the li-po slightly, so it is easy to grip, or you can use a 1/4" nut driver to snug it down. To change sides your battery exits from simply swap the thumbscrew with the button head on the other side of the car and now your battery can be changed from the other side of the car.We figured that way no matter how you want to set-up your electronics in the car you can keep the wiring nice and clean.

Not to bad for a weeks worth of time with the new machine/software.With the sct chassis and all the shared peices done between the Academy kits it's looking like even with the Gear cover delay ( is shaping up nicely by the way!!!) We should have truck and buggy kits in the store By Wed. at the latest along with the sct which will be for sale tomorrow, but wont ship until we have gear covers on Wed.:nod:We will also be listing some direct bolt on shock towers with stock geometry AND added upper shock locations for tuning for Academy buggies and trucks(F+R),Kyosho RB5(F+R),and Losi XXXCR(F only).