16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
03-22-2010, 06:26 PM
#1471
03-23-2010, 03:35 AM
#1473
Front battery-tray reinforcing
As mentioned previously, I've had breakage issues with my front battery tray and have attempted to strengthen it since it first cracked. (was using a pair of 7cell nimh packs when I first got the Vorza and cased it hard on a triple jump) Wasn't interested in simply replacing it as I figured this would likely just happen again.
Have tried epoxy as well as inserting an angled piece of pipe-fastener, unfortunately with no luck. A friend of mine who is into RC crawling and builds his own chassis parts offered to have a go at reinforcing it... and this is what he came back with. He utilized strengthened aluminium and pop-riveted it to the nylon frame.
Haven't tested it out on the track yet, however I think it looks pretty clean and the everything fits just fine. Only thing that might need attention is to shim the internal pop-rivets back a bit with a dremel tool so that I don't puncture a Lipo case.
HPI definitely needs to rethink the design on this part.
Have tried epoxy as well as inserting an angled piece of pipe-fastener, unfortunately with no luck. A friend of mine who is into RC crawling and builds his own chassis parts offered to have a go at reinforcing it... and this is what he came back with. He utilized strengthened aluminium and pop-riveted it to the nylon frame.
Haven't tested it out on the track yet, however I think it looks pretty clean and the everything fits just fine. Only thing that might need attention is to shim the internal pop-rivets back a bit with a dremel tool so that I don't puncture a Lipo case.
HPI definitely needs to rethink the design on this part.
03-23-2010, 05:24 AM
#1474
I finally switched my 6500 4S battery for the lighter and smaller 5250 4S battery, check out the difference to the rear.
Before: 6500 4S, 15.5mm from the shock collar to the underside of the shock cap
After: 5250 4S, 12.0mm from the shock collar to the underside of the shock cap
There's definitely a weight difference between the batteries.
I just got the 68mm red springs in which have the highest spring rate in 68mm. They are one step up from the 68mm yellow springs in the above pictures; may have to jump up to red still.
I also threw on the DE Racing skid plates and the M2C Racing captured hinge pins.
Before: 6500 4S, 15.5mm from the shock collar to the underside of the shock cap
After: 5250 4S, 12.0mm from the shock collar to the underside of the shock cap
There's definitely a weight difference between the batteries.
I just got the 68mm red springs in which have the highest spring rate in 68mm. They are one step up from the 68mm yellow springs in the above pictures; may have to jump up to red still.
I also threw on the DE Racing skid plates and the M2C Racing captured hinge pins.
03-23-2010, 07:57 AM
#1475
Thanks Adam, yup custom cut and then I drilled mounting holes to where the skids fasten to so this way it's bolted to the chassis and can be easily removed. Yep I don't care about the CF. I don't have any scratch's on the chassis and wanted to keep it that way hehe.
Last edited by Vision; 03-23-2010 at 09:16 AM.
03-23-2010, 08:22 AM
#1476
As mentioned previously, I've had breakage issues with my front battery tray and have attempted to strengthen it since it first cracked. (was using a pair of 7cell nimh packs when I first got the Vorza and cased it hard on a triple jump) Wasn't interested in simply replacing it as I figured this would likely just happen again.
Have tried epoxy as well as inserting an angled piece of pipe-fastener, unfortunately with no luck. A friend of mine who is into RC crawling and builds his own chassis parts offered to have a go at reinforcing it... and this is what he came back with. He utilized strengthened aluminium and pop-riveted it to the nylon frame.
Haven't tested it out on the track yet, however I think it looks pretty clean and the everything fits just fine. Only thing that might need attention is to shim the internal pop-rivets back a bit with a dremel tool so that I don't puncture a Lipo case.
HPI definitely needs to rethink the design on this part.
Have tried epoxy as well as inserting an angled piece of pipe-fastener, unfortunately with no luck. A friend of mine who is into RC crawling and builds his own chassis parts offered to have a go at reinforcing it... and this is what he came back with. He utilized strengthened aluminium and pop-riveted it to the nylon frame.
Haven't tested it out on the track yet, however I think it looks pretty clean and the everything fits just fine. Only thing that might need attention is to shim the internal pop-rivets back a bit with a dremel tool so that I don't puncture a Lipo case.
HPI definitely needs to rethink the design on this part.
03-23-2010, 09:05 AM
#1477
Looks great Ryan, but I've got to ask, how in the hell are you keeping the bottom so scratch free. I only have about 6 batteries through mine and only track runs and mine looks like I drag it across the asphalt 
03-23-2010, 10:03 AM
#1478
HA!!!! that made me giggle at my desk....
It's been scratch free because I baby it to death as a racer only / no bashing.
This has been my first car since getting back into RC so I'm in the "preservation phase".
Once I get my second RC (truggy) I'm sure I'll get out of that phase.
It will take on much more abuse when we start racing locally in April and May.
It's been scratch free because I baby it to death as a racer only / no bashing.
This has been my first car since getting back into RC so I'm in the "preservation phase".
Once I get my second RC (truggy) I'm sure I'll get out of that phase.
It will take on much more abuse when we start racing locally in April and May.
03-23-2010, 11:31 AM
#1479
Well I raced the vorza last Sunday, 21st march on an outdoor astro turf track at a club not to far away and absolutely loved it, my first ever race. unfortunately in the final I lost a hinge pin (again) despite putting washers on the screws to ensure it couldn't come out, the washers did their job as the pin came out by breaking the rear "A" arm, also lost a dog bone.
so; Ryan where did you get your new pins from? what car are they for?
I got mine setup really well with the stock springs up front and the long orange springs at the rear. along with new "A" arm etc I've ordered the long blue springs, although I wouldn't have needed them on Sunday, I'm going to keep them with me in case I need them at other tracks. I almost always use 6S (2 * 3S 3700) batteries, I do have some Orion 2S batteries which will be lighter, so the blue springs would be useful when I use them.
when the parts I need arrive, expected tomorrow, and I get my vorza assembled, I'll take some pictures with various springs I have and different batteries etc, so people can get an idea of the way the car sits with them etc, may help if someone is looking at other springs.
I love this car!
Lee
so; Ryan where did you get your new pins from? what car are they for?
I got mine setup really well with the stock springs up front and the long orange springs at the rear. along with new "A" arm etc I've ordered the long blue springs, although I wouldn't have needed them on Sunday, I'm going to keep them with me in case I need them at other tracks. I almost always use 6S (2 * 3S 3700) batteries, I do have some Orion 2S batteries which will be lighter, so the blue springs would be useful when I use them.
when the parts I need arrive, expected tomorrow, and I get my vorza assembled, I'll take some pictures with various springs I have and different batteries etc, so people can get an idea of the way the car sits with them etc, may help if someone is looking at other springs.
I love this car!
Lee
03-23-2010, 12:13 PM
#1480
Tech Adept
Sry..
03-23-2010, 12:13 PM
#1481
Tech Adept
Results from todays activites. Movie is being uploading atm.
03-23-2010, 12:16 PM
#1482
unfortunately in the final I lost a hinge pin (again) despite putting washers on the screws to ensure it couldn't come out, the washers did their job as the pin came out by breaking the rear "A" arm, also lost a dog bone.
so; Ryan where did you get your new pins from? what car are they for?
so; Ryan where did you get your new pins from? what car are they for?
http://m2cracing.com/product.sc?prod...&categoryId=-1
03-23-2010, 12:21 PM
#1483
On a side note, I mentioned earlier that I was looking into replacing the stock 16T pinion gear with an 18T pinion gear to work with the stock 48T spur gear.
-Has anyone installed an 18T gear with the stock 48T spur gear?
-Has anyone adjusted their ESC settings (motor timing) because of the pinion gear change?
I sent an email to CC to see if we need to change the ESC settings if we change pinion gears; here's what I'm set at now:
Sensorless Motor Timing = Low
Arming Time = Standard
-Has anyone installed an 18T gear with the stock 48T spur gear?
-Has anyone adjusted their ESC settings (motor timing) because of the pinion gear change?
I sent an email to CC to see if we need to change the ESC settings if we change pinion gears; here's what I'm set at now:
Sensorless Motor Timing = Low
Arming Time = Standard
Last edited by HYDE16; 03-23-2010 at 03:56 PM. Reason: Corrected Spur Gear
03-23-2010, 01:22 PM
#1484
Tech Adept
03-23-2010, 02:03 PM
#1485
Photos should work now if they didn't with the other links...
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]