pafalzon

No not really. Im using a 5S pack and the thing still wheelspins like crazy if I hit the throttle hard. Plenty of power. It is noticably faster in the top end.

chainsaw10

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know of any beefier tie rod/push rod ends? I've broke a few and I'm hoping to replace them with something stronger.

Revved

Actually I wasn't really joking... I will probably just run it through the stream a few times! I normally blow the whole thing off with my air compressor after getting it this filthy but this happened while on a road trip. After every time I run the Vorza it gets blown off and oiled up. I typically soak all of the bearing areas with WD40 to oil them and blow out debris. I had all the wheel bearings out a few weeks back and they were all still spotless and smooth turning.

Big Bummer though... now that spring has come around and there are no cows in the field behind us anymore the grass is 1'+ tall... too much even for the Vorza to tear through-- it just wraps around the axle and ties it down. No playground for a while..

Peloche

Hi all,

Stock schock springs are weaks IMHO, i'd like to keep stock schocks but only change their springs to get them harder, which ones to install ?

G SquareD

iTrader: (16)

Best pinions I've used are Robinson Racing. You can find them in all different tooth combinations on Amain.

These pinions last the longest, the stock HPI ones wore on me very quickly, they are garbage IMO. Also you can run a plastic spur which makes much less noise than the metal spur and they are much lighter, which means more efficient transfer of power. (less rotating mass the motor has to turn). I race on tracks, so gearing configs vary depending on the track, but for the most part I run 17/52, with a Robinson Racing Pinion and Losi Plastic spur.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-17T

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Gear-45T-8E-20

bareknuckle4

Thanks to everyone who replied regarding pinions and spurs, il let you all know how i get on -

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

The vorza shock setup is already somewhat stiff especially when already using the short springs on the rear, combined with 40f/45r wt oil and 1.3x6 pistons all-round. What are you trying to achieve? Increase bottoming-out resistance? The longer rear springs (68mm and 76mm) are quite a bit softer. Try thickening up the rear oils or changing to a smaller hole pistons 1.2x6. Grey springs on the front are most likely too soft, so try the white 60mm or blue 60mm.

Peloche

Hi TRiN,

Thanks, i found that my Vorza suspension is not satisfactory.

I have measured ground clearance, i gently placed the car on a plane surface, and put a ruler :



Front ground clearance :



I pushed down the car to touch the surface and let it come back by itself:



Rear ground clearance :





Difference at front:

10 mm

Rear :

22 mm

IMHO springs are not strong enough to return the car at its original ground clearance, what do you think ?

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

I can see a decent amount of preload already on the front springs... I'd check if there's any binding going on at the front. Are the arms/hub carriers free? Are the inner and outer hinge pins straight? I'd recommend taking the front shocks off & unlink the swaybars to test this.

Also, when was the last time you've rebuilt the shocks? Since you've got the front shocks off, how does it feel when you pull/push the shocks in and out? Do you feel any air inside them? Are they smooth? Do they rebound when you compress them? Do both the left and right front shocks both equally feel the same?

Peloche

Thanks TRiN, about the preload you're right :



I've checked schock oil level before making the test yesterday, oil was almost at the maximum level, but oil was clear grey, i added only very few, there isn't any leak.

I removed left front schock now again, when i push it it's a bit hard and it comes back immediatly (without any load...)

About arm it's moving freely, when lifting it up it comes back down immediatly, so there isn't any obstacle at free moving.

But ...

My Vorza front has on top of the stock configuration some more items:

- front skid

- front bumper

- + 1 front schock tower with longer screws

- one golf ball

- and i've moved the batteries case 1 cm toward the front

IMHO this overweight affects the original balance, i really need to increase suspension.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

How heavy is that golf ball? That's the only thing that I don't have on mine

Try the white 60mm for the fronts or the blue 60mm which is stiffer again. If you want an unconventional suggestion to go with your unconventional frontend setup, the Red 68mm (which is normally used on the rear 112mm shocks only) might also be an option. Same rate as the white 60mm but is 8mm taller, good if you don't want to thread down the spring preload collar so far down the shock body.

Peloche

Golf ball should be between 40 to 50 g.

Thanks for your help i'll go with Red 68 mm, but what about aftermarket schocks, is there any available without going with 112 mm and changing the towers length ?

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

This is where you'll be going into uncharted territory. There won't be many aftermarket options... what you'll be looking at are big bore shocks from other brands like kyosho, ae, xray etc... What you may find are the majority of 8th scale buggies with big bores will come with taller shocks in the rear than the front. In saying that there's still a few out there that have both front and rear shocks that are equal length.

Also, fitting different brand shocks may not be a direct fit, so be sure to check the shock ends and shock top cap are suitable for the existing shock mount locations on the vorza.

Most would have upgraded to 112mm shocks for the rear however the recommended spring options will get comparatively softer and less progressive than using the 60mm springs on the rear.

Straffa

Check this video

+ YouTube Video

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

Try Mugen Part# E0814