rchoi

iTrader: (6)

Sorry. My friend is at hobby shop and I amm outside with my phone...
I saw the dog jones but then looks like you need more parts to use this shafts right?
sorry again

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Actually I gave you the wrong part number.... I gave you the number for the shafts, the part number for the cups is HPI86248. Not 100% sure on what all you need. I'm running CVD's all the way around on mine. And looking at the manual on the exploded pics you shouldn't need anything else. My suggestion is spend a little more money and get some CVD's for the fronts. Yet again wasn't trying to be a jerk.

rchoi

iTrader: (6)

I do have CVD's for my vorza and it is stock parts. after i gave some alum front hubs, dog bones are barely touching the front cups from diffs... i am trying to extend the CVD or Front Diff Cup. this HPI86248 fits in to the front diff?

thanks

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

The fronts aren't CVD's stock, only the rears are. If you have front CVDs already and your having troubles with those I don't know what to tell you. Sorry. HPI86248 is the outer drive cup and HPI86246 is the dog bone and neither of these will work if you already have CVD's in the front. I don't know what you can do to extend the diff cups. Other than to put a spacer in the diff cup to take away some of the play.
Maybe try a CVD set up for the savage? Part# HPI87234

bigugly78cj5

iTrader: (1)

So ive got all my money saved up waiting for the New vorza and batteries and charger...Well the other night my jeep got broken into and now my CD player is gone along with some other items id like to replace sooner than later. So there goes a good 2-300 i had saved for the Vorza...which brings me to my question... What are yalls thoughts on buying a used Vorza? Ive got my eye on a nice one, comes with 6 2S nano tech 5000s thunder charger spare parts and bodies that would come in right around what im going to have left after i replace my radio and stuff... i know buying used nitro is a big risk...but does electric have as many risks as far as the motor/ESC are concerned?...

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

You also could try the following:-
- decrease droop via the droop screw in the a-arm

- moving the shocks to the inner holes on the tower and a-arm will also help limit the amount of travel

- If the front a-arms are bowed, flip or replace them

ngnaw

Can you take pics and make some videos of you running it!? What are you using for lipos?

rchoi

iTrader: (6)

what is the longest CVDs that i can buy for my vorza...
Here is picture of front drive when my car is on stands...
this happened after installing HB alum front spindle carrier and set

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

That's actually not that bad, the engagement in my front was much worst up until I added droop screws into the a-arms. I think the tekno shafts are 92.5mm and the HB WCE shafts are 92mm. Don't think you can go much longer or you may encounter problems with binding in the cups.

Noticed you don't have captured pins in the front, would definitely recommend it, probably one of the best/must have upgrades imo.

rchoi

iTrader: (6)

ok... shoot me again, what is captured pins in the front?
sorry guys...

timritchieblue

iTrader: (4)

Any more info on using the savage cups?

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

On hard hits/bad tumbles the front pins have a tendency to pop right off, usually damaging the a-arm or something else. Pick up a set of these or two for the rear too. There not really needed in the rear but a nice insurance just in case.

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

Tim do those diff cups bind with the sway bars? From that picture the tolerence looks extremely small.

rchoi

iTrader: (6)

never had bad landings...JK just ordered two~ thanks!!!

rchoi

iTrader: (6)

how about using center shaft for front? these are 105mm. anyone tried this?
Part number is Hpi67408