The Team Associated T5 is coming!!!
09-06-2009, 03:05 PM
#61
(This wasn't my idea. I seen it on an other thread . I've been useing it for a long time and it works great, never had a ball cup pop off because of it.) Quote:
Josh Anderson at AE showed me this trick to adjust the "droop" or down travel WITHOUT internal limiters.
Use the
extra ballstud hole next to the INNER CAMBERLINK ballstud to insert a long 4-40 setscrew.
Screw the setscrew upwards until it touches the camberlink ballcup then keep pushing up with the setscrew and it will move the camberlink as well as the arm upward to the desired "droop" setting.
Start by matching the length of the AE shocks, center to center of each shock end hole.
This works for the front and rear!
He has been using this for a long time and I have used it since my SC10 was new, first ones out.
This works just like on the onroad cars,
if your car/truck wants to bicycle or even traction roll, reduce the droop, don't let the arms hang down as far and this will help keep the chassis from rolling over as easily, less weight transfer.
Get the right suspension balance first of course but you get the idea.
09-06-2009, 03:28 PM
#62
I dont get the whole QC wheels that everyone is wanting
1) they are hevier
2) sense when do you change wheels enough to really justify them
3) how hard is it to just unscrew the wheel nut
Neither Tebo nor Mayfeild run them, if anyone wouldnt you think the pro's would run em?
Now the B44 rear hubs would be nice
Larger bearings for the rear hubs
i think the bearings on the wheel is a better idea then on the spindle, with them on the wheel there is less rotating mass then if they were mounted in the steering block like th Rustler
as for the wing mounts i have ony broke 2 it the 3 years iv been running the
T4
Just my .02
1) they are hevier
2) sense when do you change wheels enough to really justify them
3) how hard is it to just unscrew the wheel nut
Neither Tebo nor Mayfeild run them, if anyone wouldnt you think the pro's would run em?
Now the B44 rear hubs would be nice
Larger bearings for the rear hubs
i think the bearings on the wheel is a better idea then on the spindle, with them on the wheel there is less rotating mass then if they were mounted in the steering block like th Rustler
as for the wing mounts i have ony broke 2 it the 3 years iv been running the
T4
Just my .02
1) 1 set of wheels
2) Of course its not hard to unscrew a lock nut, but have you tried the QR? Don't knock it if you haven't tried it
3) did i mention one set of wheels
09-06-2009, 04:17 PM
#64
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Just wonder how many posts we'll get on this before we acually hear something truly confirmd. Don't ask AE, I can tell you what they'll say..
I was looking into a new pan car and asked them why at the drop of a hat the 10L4 was discontinued on Towers site. I knew what it meant but I asked them about a 10L5 and they told me "nope, no plans for a new 10L" I new that's what they would say but I asked anyway
ahh crap I guess this just put the post count up 1 more...
I agree that hexs on the rear are long overdue!!!!
I was looking into a new pan car and asked them why at the drop of a hat the 10L4 was discontinued on Towers site. I knew what it meant but I asked them about a 10L5 and they told me "nope, no plans for a new 10L" I new that's what they would say but I asked anyway
ahh crap I guess this just put the post count up 1 more...
I agree that hexs on the rear are long overdue!!!!
09-06-2009, 04:44 PM
#66
i think i follow what you are saying as far as adjusting the down travel. You would have to run on the inside hole on the tower right. That way the screw would be in the outermost hole?
09-06-2009, 04:56 PM
#67
This is super lazy. You need to rebuild the shocks so often anyway that its no problem to add internal washers. The camber links have enough stress on them as is and by biasing them upwards your asking them to pop off on an awkward landing
(This wasn't my idea. I seen it on an other thread . I've been useing it for a long time and it works great, never had a ball cup pop off because of it.) Quote:
Josh Anderson at AE showed me this trick to adjust the "droop" or down travel WITHOUT internal limiters.
Use the
extra ballstud hole next to the INNER CAMBERLINK ballstud to insert a long 4-40 setscrew.
Screw the setscrew upwards until it touches the camberlink ballcup then keep pushing up with the setscrew and it will move the camberlink as well as the arm upward to the desired "droop" setting.
Start by matching the length of the AE shocks, center to center of each shock end hole.
This works for the front and rear!
He has been using this for a long time and I have used it since my SC10 was new, first ones out.
This works just like on the onroad cars,
if your car/truck wants to bicycle or even traction roll, reduce the droop, don't let the arms hang down as far and this will help keep the chassis from rolling over as easily, less weight transfer.
Get the right suspension balance first of course but you get the idea.
Josh Anderson at AE showed me this trick to adjust the "droop" or down travel WITHOUT internal limiters.
Use the
extra ballstud hole next to the INNER CAMBERLINK ballstud to insert a long 4-40 setscrew.
Screw the setscrew upwards until it touches the camberlink ballcup then keep pushing up with the setscrew and it will move the camberlink as well as the arm upward to the desired "droop" setting.
Start by matching the length of the AE shocks, center to center of each shock end hole.
This works for the front and rear!
He has been using this for a long time and I have used it since my SC10 was new, first ones out.
This works just like on the onroad cars,
if your car/truck wants to bicycle or even traction roll, reduce the droop, don't let the arms hang down as far and this will help keep the chassis from rolling over as easily, less weight transfer.
Get the right suspension balance first of course but you get the idea.
09-06-2009, 08:52 PM
#68
Phew just read 67 posts, and man a lot of gossup.
If its true I would like to see, kyosho style shocks and front wheel bearings on the truck rather than in the rim. Larger rear bearings and stronger front a arm design. Perfer anything to the rear axle pin, more like a hex nut would be great.
Other than that the t4 is great. The sc10 obviously is based on the t4 but there are some differences in the front, though I dont think they would have released the sc10, which is so heavily based on the t4 is they are soon to replace th t4.
Either way Im still waiting for the b5, though its not a t, I still want one.
If its true I would like to see, kyosho style shocks and front wheel bearings on the truck rather than in the rim. Larger rear bearings and stronger front a arm design. Perfer anything to the rear axle pin, more like a hex nut would be great.
Other than that the t4 is great. The sc10 obviously is based on the t4 but there are some differences in the front, though I dont think they would have released the sc10, which is so heavily based on the t4 is they are soon to replace th t4.
Either way Im still waiting for the b5, though its not a t, I still want one.
09-06-2009, 09:11 PM
#69
Phew just read 67 posts, and man a lot of gossup.
If its true I would like to see, kyosho style shocks and front wheel bearings on the truck rather than in the rim. Larger rear bearings and stronger front a arm design. Perfer anything to the rear axle pin, more like a hex nut would be great.
Other than that the t4 is great. The sc10 obviously is based on the t4 but there are some differences in the front, though I dont think they would have released the sc10, which is so heavily based on the t4 is they are soon to replace th t4.
Either way Im still waiting for the b5, though its not a t, I still want one.
If its true I would like to see, kyosho style shocks and front wheel bearings on the truck rather than in the rim. Larger rear bearings and stronger front a arm design. Perfer anything to the rear axle pin, more like a hex nut would be great.
Other than that the t4 is great. The sc10 obviously is based on the t4 but there are some differences in the front, though I dont think they would have released the sc10, which is so heavily based on the t4 is they are soon to replace th t4.
Either way Im still waiting for the b5, though its not a t, I still want one.
09-06-2009, 09:44 PM
#71
Dont worry about a "B5" coming out first, the T2 came before the B2 and the T3 came before the B3.
As for the shocks, until recently I've ran ae cars since '95. They are good..IF you are willing to put in the work. Recently there has been bad batches of clips and shock bodies, that leads to major frustration. After getting my K-cars, there is a reason for all the hype on the shocks.
I hope a new truck and buggy are on the way, as well as the new losi 2 wheel, it will only help the 1/10th market which is SERIOUSLY struggling out by me.
As for the shocks, until recently I've ran ae cars since '95. They are good..IF you are willing to put in the work. Recently there has been bad batches of clips and shock bodies, that leads to major frustration. After getting my K-cars, there is a reason for all the hype on the shocks.
I hope a new truck and buggy are on the way, as well as the new losi 2 wheel, it will only help the 1/10th market which is SERIOUSLY struggling out by me.
09-06-2009, 09:46 PM
#72
the idea for the adjustable down limiter screw would be cool. however with the set up as it is now, it is adjustable. all you need to do is turn the ball ends out on the shocks and presto!... more drop. one turn out is the same as one 0.030 limiter.
09-06-2009, 10:37 PM
#73
You guys who think the AE shocks are good and dont need to be updated obviously have never built a k shock. Its not just hype. I know everyone is just used to redoing shocks every other run but it does not have to be that way.
09-07-2009, 05:06 AM
#74
All the team drivers use this trick. If there was one instance of a ball cup popping off they would have quit doing this a long time ago. My son said the same thing to me 8 months ago when I first did this and now he is doing this to. I haven't put a limiter on my shocks in 8 months. When conditions change at in track we can make quick adjustments with a caliper in a few minutes without opening up the shocks. You don't have to do this its just a personal preference. I didn't do this because I' am lazy. I just put this in here in case guys were interested.
09-07-2009, 05:16 AM
#75
eh, the b4/t4 have long had a great rep for needed a consistent value of limiter in the rear across all driving abilities and setups at a give track. the elec tracks nearby for me, most every1 runs the same amt and it isnt 1 of the changes folks go after. even with lipos (most every weights up still anyway).
its an interestin idea, def not for those who have a crash tendency, but my luck it'd pop when i was doing an above average run.
R
seems the link was removed on their site.
its an interestin idea, def not for those who have a crash tendency, but my luck it'd pop when i was doing an above average run.
R
seems the link was removed on their site.