Originally Posted by jettvolks
(Post 7070367)
Mine has the bearing slop too. Was like that out of the box and has gotten worse with just a few days of practice and two race days on it.
I'm going to do some looking and see if I can come up with a way to remove some of it. I know a loose truck is ok but this is getting pretty sloppy. |
Originally Posted by markhat250
(Post 7070935)
Once you put 16mm shocks and "bigger than 540" electronics in the SCRT, is it really a 1/10 scale anymore? That's all I was asking. You all responded with an affirmitive yes. So let's all go buy huge electronics and 16mm big bores and you've answered YES, it's still a 1/10 scale!!!!! Now I know. I can't wait to crush those little Slash cars that arn't even in the ballpark. Those are 1/10 too.
If that's the case, what scale is a "1/8 buggy" after they install big bore shocks? |
.....Double post.
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The electronics and shock size does not dictate the scale of the truck, if it's a 1/10th scale truck with a 1/8th scale motor, esc and shocks it's still a 1/10th scale.
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With big ones!:D
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My son Jason ran his SCRT10 this weekend for the first time at Trackside in Milwaukee. Smaller indoor hardpack clay. The 4x4 class must run SCT tires from any manufacturer. He ran Slash fronts all around. Novak 6.5HV, Havoc Pro ESC and 15 tooth pinion. 3mm Carbon fiber shock towers with CR shocks front and rear. Modified front body mount worked great on the higher front mount. Placed second in the main out of 9 4x4SCT trucks on Friday and 2nd out of 6 on Saturday. 6 minute main used 1645Mah. Thunder Power 5200mAh 50/100c 2S lipo. More than enough power and as fast as anything down the back straight. Wearing a factory Maxxis Blitz body it was in definite stealth mode. No broken parts probably because we had a second truck in the box with us as a spare.;)
Thanks for the info from this thread, Keith. |
Originally Posted by markhat250
(Post 7070935)
Once you put 16mm shocks and "bigger than 540" electronics in the SCRT, is it really a 1/10 scale anymore? That's all I was asking. You all responded with an affirmitive yes. So let's all go buy huge electronics and 16mm big bores and you've answered YES, it's still a 1/10 scale!!!!! Now I know. I can't wait to crush those little Slash cars that arn't even in the ballpark. Those are 1/10 too.
Maybe you should follow it!;) |
Originally Posted by Kings Kid
(Post 7071283)
your point is mute.
Maybe you should follow it!;) A moot point is one that is merely academic and not practical, or (less commonly today) one that is still open to discussion. Something is mute if it makes no sound. Although... mute would be good for him. :lol: |
Originally Posted by jhautz
(Post 7071471)
I believe the word is "moot" not "mute"
A moot point is one that is merely academic and not practical, or (less commonly today) one that is still open to discussion. Something is mute if it makes no sound. Although... mute would be good for him. :lol: |
Anyways, after all the ROAR motor rules discussion I care to have, let's get back to the fun and talk about the SCRT10.
Installed my new 4mm front tower, cut out a new body mount(to cheap to spend the $12.00 for the parts tree need to get a rear body mount), installed a set of rear CRT.5 shocks from my CRT.5 donor truck, installed the CRT.5 rear CVD's as well, installed a new Hitec 7995TG servo, and glued up a new set of JConcepts Goosebumps on a set of JC Relux Slash rear wheels w/ Pro Line v2 molded blue foams. Also ordered a set of titanium turnbuckles as well. I tweaked the driver side upper and lower turnbuckles last week after a full on wall impact after another driver and I got together.:lol: Need to order a new body as the stocker is getting pretty beat up, waiting on the new Associated SC10 body to become available. All in all, this this has been the most fun I've had w/ a RC vehicle in a long time!:D |
Originally Posted by NovakTwo
(Post 7069991)
This price is for our factory re manufactured 550 HVs but they do come with a new warranty. Right now we only have RMF 6.5 and 7.5 winds. The new HVs in our store do include the 5.5 wind.
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
(Post 7070085)
i have noticed this too at the rear. it doesnt seem to be too bad on my truck so i havent taken it apart to try to fix it. i could have been a little tighter from the factory though.
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setup tips
what is the secret to getting this truck not to nose dive over a jump i have tried most everything
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Originally Posted by biggen
(Post 7072576)
what is the secret to getting this truck not to nose dive over a jump i have tried most everything
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Originally Posted by Shark413
(Post 7072468)
Regarding the wobble in the axles, keep an eye on your wheel bearings. They are pretty small compared to the wheels/tires they support. The SC trucks use wheels very similar to 1/8 buggy's in size and yet the Jammin uses a 5x11 bearing where most 1/8's use larger 8x16 bearings. Those Jammin wheel bearings are under a ton of stress having to deal with bigger wheels/tires and slightly heavier weight of the 4x4 trucks (compared to a 2wd SC truck). Wheel bearings have to deal with rotational stress (rpm) and side thrust loads (when the wheels hit the ground at a angle). My stock rear bearings were very gritty after 3 runs and I replaced them. Now my front wheels feel very loose, so I'll be checking them next.
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