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Old 05-03-2012 | 09:57 AM
  #11671  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Great info to know . Thanks a lot for writing that Mike. Glad to hear that the Avid's are an option that will actually perform similar to the AE stock springs. You say your running .05 rear hubs... are they plastic AE ones, or are they aluminum? I am currently running AE plastic B44 0deg. hubs in the rear, but have considered switching to aluminum ones in possibly a different degree. Thanks
Yes I'm running the aluminum .05 with the A-tower. Here is my setup. http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...tml#post255397
Its current other than Avid white rears in place of the Losi yellows.
Something to consider for people not sure on buying, these are the springs that will be used on the AE big bores when they are released. They are match tested prior to packaging as well. So basically if you buy now, you will have spring kits for the AE big bore and get a chance to test them out and determine spring choice. I know on the buggies, AE B4.1 are basically using the same rate spring as buggies that come with big bores like Kyosho and Losi. So the bigger bore is not going to demand a different spring, its just going to dampen smoother and more consistantly.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 11:29 AM
  #11672  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
Has anyone tried a shorty lipo in this car?
Yes. I'm running this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved

Love it. I've got the RCRD chassis and have everything running right down the middle. Plenty of mAh for 8 minute main. I had 5000 mAh running in it and just ended up hauling a bunch of juice back to the pits. Seemed pointless. I've had nothing but good luck with ProTek sticks and shorties. Saddles have been another story.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 12:34 PM
  #11673  
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Originally Posted by nismomike
Yes I'm running the aluminum .05 with the A-tower.
What is an A-tower?
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Old 05-03-2012 | 12:38 PM
  #11674  
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Originally Posted by drtdvl4
What is an A-tower?
They have a letter on the hub towers, A, B, and the carbon fiber hub tower is referred to as the "c tower".
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Old 05-03-2012 | 12:50 PM
  #11675  
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What would you say was the preferred amount of weight to add to the SC10FT and where do you feel the best placement for these are? I bought the small ballast weight and have more in the rear of the battery tray but wanted to get some other opinions on the subject. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 12:51 PM
  #11676  
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Originally Posted by beanforge
Yes. I'm running this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved

Love it. I've got the RCRD chassis and have everything running right down the middle. Plenty of mAh for 8 minute main. I had 5000 mAh running in it and just ended up hauling a bunch of juice back to the pits. Seemed pointless. I've had nothing but good luck with ProTek sticks and shorties. Saddles have been another story.
the higher amp hour packs with the same C rating will put out more amperage
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Old 05-03-2012 | 01:09 PM
  #11677  
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Originally Posted by nismomike
They have a letter on the hub towers, A, B, and the carbon fiber hub tower is referred to as the "c tower".
Thanks, that's what I run. I thought maybe A-tower meant an aluminum shock tower.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 01:20 PM
  #11678  
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Originally Posted by Layin' Wood
What would you say was the preferred amount of weight to add to the SC10FT and where do you feel the best placement for these are? I bought the small ballast weight and have more in the rear of the battery tray but wanted to get some other opinions on the subject. Thanks in advance for the help.
I added the following:

- 0.5 oz. FT Ballast between trans and hinge pin brace
- 2.5 oz. in front of the hinge pin brace
- 0.5 oz. next to receiver (ballast for ESC)
- 0.5 oz. on the front top plate centered.
- Battery mid tray

I am running a 7.5t with tons of speed and this weight addition plants the truck well and provides good rear traction.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 02:18 PM
  #11679  
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Can someone help me for the gearing of my SC10? It's based on a RTR (87 teeths spur) but I don't know what pinion to choose.. I run a 8.5 brushless motor (4000kv only as it's a speed passion) and it's for an outdoor medium sized loose track.

Last edited by Pulse_; 05-03-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 02:36 PM
  #11680  
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
Can someone help me for the gearing of my SC10? It's based on a RTR (87 teeths spur) but I don't know what pinion to choose.. I run a 8.5 brushless motor and it's for an outdoor medium sized loose track.
21/84 or 22/87, no timing. Check temps, but this is pretty common gearing and pretty safe. Wheelspin = more heat. If you are drifting around the track it will get hot no matter what motor it has.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 02:56 PM
  #11681  
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Originally Posted by nismomike
21/84 or 22/87, no timing. Check temps, but this is pretty common gearing and pretty safe. Wheelspin = more heat. If you are drifting around the track it will get hot no matter what motor it has.
So that is an FDR of about 10.2. Is that a common FDR for an SC10? My gear chart that came with mt ESC suggested 8.5 for a 13.5T, which is what I am running. Temps are about 140 after 5 minutes.

Also, looking at your setup sheet, you say you are running the AE weight block (3 oz) plus another 3 oz behind the batt?

Thanks for all your help!
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Old 05-03-2012 | 03:02 PM
  #11682  
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Originally Posted by drtdvl4
So that is an FDR of about 10.2. Is that a common FDR for an SC10? My gear chart that came with mt ESC suggested 8.5 for a 13.5T, which is what I am running. Temps are about 140 after 5 minutes.

Also, looking at your setup sheet, you say you are running the AE weight block (3 oz) plus another 3 oz behind the batt?

Thanks for all your help!
The AE ballast is only 20g.if your temps are 140 after 5 min then leave it as is or even gear up a tooth or 2. What gears are you running. My 8.5 liked 21/84-22/84.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 03:31 PM
  #11683  
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Originally Posted by nismomike
21/84 or 22/87, no timing. Check temps, but this is pretty common gearing and pretty safe. Wheelspin = more heat. If you are drifting around the track it will get hot no matter what motor it has.
I'm a smooth driver I'm coming from buggy so no wheelspin for me

I just discovered speed passion have very low kv for the same amount of turns than a LRP for example.

My 8.5 is only 4000kv, would you still gear it 22/87?

I have an other motor which is a 10.5 with 3800kv, what gearing would you suggest?

Turns make no sense if the differences in kv are so high

Castle Creations CM36 brushless / brushed equivalent:
S7700 (7,700kV) = 6-turn
S6900 (6,900kV) = 8-turn
S5700 (5,700kV) = 10-turn
S4600 (4,600kV) = 16-turn

LRP Vector brushless / brushed equivelent:
X-11 3.0 (11,400kV) = 3-turn
X-11 3.5 (9,800kV) = 3-turn
X-11 4.0 (8,600kV) = 4-turn
X-11 4.5 (7,800kV) = 5-turn
X-11 5.5 (8,100kV) = 7-turn
X-11 6.5 (6,900kV) = 9-turn
X-11 7.5 (5,900kV) = 11-turn
X-11 13.5 (3,350kV) = stock 27-turn

Novak SS/EX/Velociti brushless / brushed equivalent:
3.5R (10,500kV) = 3-turn
4.5R (9,000kV) = 5-turn
5.5R (7,400kV) = 7-turn
6.5R (6,400kV) = 9-turn
7.5R (5,800kV) = 11-turn
8.5 / SS5800 (5,000kV) = 13-turn
10.5 / SS4300 (4,200kV) = 19-turn
13.5 (3,300kV) = stock 27-turn

Reedy Neo-One brushless / brushed equivalent:
4-Star (7,400kV) = 7-turn
3-Star (6,400kV) = 9-turn
2-Star (5,800kV) = 11-turn
1-Star (5,000kV) = 13-turn

* based on manufacturer-claimed specs

=====

Traxxas VELINEON 3500 KV = 10-Turn

=====

Feigao 540 XL 2383 kv = 7 turn

======

per Adam of Schumacher USA (THANKS!!!)

SPEED PASSION;
Turn - KV
2.5 - 12,100
3.5 - 8200
4.0 - 7600
4.5 - 7200
5.5 - 6200
6.5 - 5100
7.5 - 4500
8.5 - 4000
9.5 - 3400
10.5 - 3200
11.5 - 3000
13.5 - 2800
17.5 - 2600
21.5 - 2000
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Old 05-03-2012 | 03:54 PM
  #11684  
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How do you set the front tow when the wheels are never at the same angle? Too much play going on.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 04:49 PM
  #11685  
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DuraTrax 1/10 Element 3900kV Brushless System

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9&I=LXAZUP&P=K

Anyone used this motor before?

*EDIT* NVM its not legal.

Last edited by Cloaked; 05-03-2012 at 06:11 PM.
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