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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

Murray100 05-23-2011 03:21 PM


Originally Posted by dymndheartkilla (Post 9154094)
tech notes say you must use the supplied bulkhead with the RPM front arms. anyone tried it with the integy aluminum bulkhead? I picked up the alum front arms and bulkhead last week but now the front of my truck dives off jumps. would like to keep alum bulkhead with RPM arms.. possible?

ALSO: anyone know where to find a wrench to use for putting the ends onto the turnbuckle? i've been using pliers and its terrible

My rtr came with a multi use wrench that addresses the turnbuckle. LHS should definitely have one.

MikeB2 05-23-2011 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by dymndheartkilla (Post 9154094)

ALSO: anyone know where to find a wrench to use for putting the ends onto the turnbuckle? i've been using pliers and its terrible

When you're trying to put them together, turnbuckles are the Devil.

Tools or not, I haven't found a way to assemble them without using a good deal of muscle and having some sore fingers for a few days. I don't know if it helps, but I put a dab of black grease on the threads before I start twisting the ends on. Maybe it's psychological, but it seems to help.

MarkA 05-23-2011 03:42 PM


Originally Posted by stanleyw808 (Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,

I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10.

I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled.

Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio.

Battery is 6.200mAh 60C.

But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal?

Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up.

Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway.

No, that's not normal, especially for running w/o boost and low timing. The LRP motors are known to run hot but should not go into thermal shutdown in your case. My only suggestion would be to try another motor.

dvsstrike 05-23-2011 03:50 PM


Originally Posted by stanleyw808 (Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,

I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10.

I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled.

Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio.

Battery is 6.200mAh 60C.

But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal?

Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up.

Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway.

i would try a 75t spur and a 19 or 20t pinion and go from there. lrp motors due run a tad hotter than most. or if you do not have the 75t spur a 84 and 23 would be good

losiracer753 05-23-2011 05:22 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I think I attached a photo of my track anyone suggest gearing for a 17.5t motor with 0 timing and no boost on a tekin RS the motor is a team scream D3 based motor. I use a 84t spur and I have a 22t pinion on there now.

MarkA 05-24-2011 08:16 AM


Originally Posted by losiracer753 (Post 9154847)
I think I attached a photo of my track anyone suggest gearing for a 17.5t motor with 0 timing and no boost on a tekin RS the motor is a team scream D3 based motor. I use a 84t spur and I have a 22t pinion on there now.

What track is that? Narrow and tight but I bet the cleanest and not usually the "fastest" guy wins.

Anyway, with no apparent straight to speak of, you don't need to be worried about speed per se so are your motors/esc temps fine? If they are and you're competitive, I'd work on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory.

Asharus 05-24-2011 08:41 AM

I run 75/26 on a Ballistic 17.5. My buddy runs 75/28 on the same setup. Similar track with one short straight.

Wild Cherry 05-24-2011 09:37 AM


Originally Posted by stanleyw808 (Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,

I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10.

I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled.

Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio.

Battery is 6.200mAh 60C.

But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal?

Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up.

Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway.



Make sure you don't have a bad wheel bearing or something to tight .

Remove pinion and spin wheels to make sure the drive train is nice & free..

losiracer753 05-24-2011 02:53 PM


Originally Posted by MarkA (Post 9157900)
What track is that? Narrow and tight but I bet the cleanest and not usually the "fastest" guy wins.

Anyway, with no apparent straight to speak of, you don't need to be worried about speed per se so are your motors/esc temps fine? If they are and you're competitive, I'd work on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory.

When I am done racing the motor temp is like 110-120 I am competitive, the fast guy is the cleanest so he wins, I was just wondering if anyone would have any other suggestions other than what I was running. When I practice I can run an entire battery and have the temp be 120 at the most..

MarkA 05-24-2011 02:59 PM


Originally Posted by losiracer753 (Post 9159624)
When I am done racing the motor temp is like 110-120 I am competitive, the fast guy is the cleanest so he wins, I was just wondering if anyone would have any other suggestions other than what I was running. When I practice I can run an entire battery and have the temp be 120 at the most..

At those temps you could try more gear. Try 24/75 and see how it goes from there. Even 25-26/75 shouldn't be too much but I just dunno if you're really leaving anything on the table for a track like that gear-wise.

losiracer753 05-24-2011 03:16 PM


Originally Posted by MarkA (Post 9159642)
At those temps you could try more gear. Try 24/75 and see how it goes from there. Even 25-26/75 shouldn't be too much but I just dunno if you're really leaving anything on the table for a track like that gear-wise.

Yeah I will try a couple different gearing options when I go in next to race. well tomorrow haha but Thanks for your input, I love the sc10 so far can't wait to race it in the dirt I have to find a track near me.

Asharus 05-24-2011 03:27 PM

Check comeseethis.com for a good reference on where to start your gearing. 120C is really low.

sly6t 05-24-2011 03:50 PM

i kinda got the same heat problems as well , its kinda a catch-22 cos i only bash and race my mates , got mine geared up so its a straight line weapon and will out run my mates buggys and savys but then when ya doing lil tight tracks and jumps it over heats . i run the alloy rear bash plate and a alloy heat sink on the motor just to help it .thats with a 8.5t and 3s. kinda waiting for the day the thing fries it self and stops lol .

sc10rr 05-25-2011 03:21 PM

anybody using the strc cvd's i just ordered a set after breaking another ae cvd :mad: im hoping they are built stronger as they are claiming. the ae cvd's did last a season:lol: mine broke where the universal pin attaches to the bone

Asharus 05-25-2011 03:22 PM


Originally Posted by sc10rr (Post 9165080)
anybody using the strc cvd's i just ordered a set after breaking another ae cvd :mad: im hoping they are built stronger as they are claiming. the ae cvd's did last a season:lol:

I'm on MIP CVDs right now and so far so good.


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