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Originally Posted by dymndheartkilla
(Post 9154094)
tech notes say you must use the supplied bulkhead with the RPM front arms. anyone tried it with the integy aluminum bulkhead? I picked up the alum front arms and bulkhead last week but now the front of my truck dives off jumps. would like to keep alum bulkhead with RPM arms.. possible?
ALSO: anyone know where to find a wrench to use for putting the ends onto the turnbuckle? i've been using pliers and its terrible |
Originally Posted by dymndheartkilla
(Post 9154094)
ALSO: anyone know where to find a wrench to use for putting the ends onto the turnbuckle? i've been using pliers and its terrible Tools or not, I haven't found a way to assemble them without using a good deal of muscle and having some sore fingers for a few days. I don't know if it helps, but I put a dab of black grease on the threads before I start twisting the ends on. Maybe it's psychological, but it seems to help. |
Originally Posted by stanleyw808
(Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,
I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10. I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled. Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio. Battery is 6.200mAh 60C. But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal? Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up. Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway. |
Originally Posted by stanleyw808
(Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,
I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10. I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled. Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio. Battery is 6.200mAh 60C. But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal? Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up. Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway. |
1 Attachment(s)
I think I attached a photo of my track anyone suggest gearing for a 17.5t motor with 0 timing and no boost on a tekin RS the motor is a team scream D3 based motor. I use a 84t spur and I have a 22t pinion on there now.
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Originally Posted by losiracer753
(Post 9154847)
I think I attached a photo of my track anyone suggest gearing for a 17.5t motor with 0 timing and no boost on a tekin RS the motor is a team scream D3 based motor. I use a 84t spur and I have a 22t pinion on there now.
Anyway, with no apparent straight to speak of, you don't need to be worried about speed per se so are your motors/esc temps fine? If they are and you're competitive, I'd work on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory. |
I run 75/26 on a Ballistic 17.5. My buddy runs 75/28 on the same setup. Similar track with one short straight.
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Originally Posted by stanleyw808
(Post 9147112)
Dear Friends,
I would like to ask about motor heat issue in my AE SC10. I am currently running my car with LRP SXX Version 2 with Vector X12 Stock Spec 10.5T. The Mechanical timing is set at the lowest setting (4 dots). ESC setting are Dual APC Mod "Feel" is set at lowest setting and Dual APC MOD "Boost" is disabled. Spur Gear is 84T with 19T Pinion, following the manual suggested gear ratio. Battery is 6.200mAh 60C. But I kept having a motor thermal shutdown at about only 8-9 minutes of racing. Is it normal? Is somebody can suggest me something or maybe I have something is wrong in my set-up. Thank You very much and wish somebody could help me in someway. Make sure you don't have a bad wheel bearing or something to tight . Remove pinion and spin wheels to make sure the drive train is nice & free.. |
Originally Posted by MarkA
(Post 9157900)
What track is that? Narrow and tight but I bet the cleanest and not usually the "fastest" guy wins.
Anyway, with no apparent straight to speak of, you don't need to be worried about speed per se so are your motors/esc temps fine? If they are and you're competitive, I'd work on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory. |
Originally Posted by losiracer753
(Post 9159624)
When I am done racing the motor temp is like 110-120 I am competitive, the fast guy is the cleanest so he wins, I was just wondering if anyone would have any other suggestions other than what I was running. When I practice I can run an entire battery and have the temp be 120 at the most..
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Originally Posted by MarkA
(Post 9159642)
At those temps you could try more gear. Try 24/75 and see how it goes from there. Even 25-26/75 shouldn't be too much but I just dunno if you're really leaving anything on the table for a track like that gear-wise.
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Check comeseethis.com for a good reference on where to start your gearing. 120C is really low.
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i kinda got the same heat problems as well , its kinda a catch-22 cos i only bash and race my mates , got mine geared up so its a straight line weapon and will out run my mates buggys and savys but then when ya doing lil tight tracks and jumps it over heats . i run the alloy rear bash plate and a alloy heat sink on the motor just to help it .thats with a 8.5t and 3s. kinda waiting for the day the thing fries it self and stops lol .
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anybody using the strc cvd's i just ordered a set after breaking another ae cvd :mad: im hoping they are built stronger as they are claiming. the ae cvd's did last a season:lol: mine broke where the universal pin attaches to the bone
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Originally Posted by sc10rr
(Post 9165080)
anybody using the strc cvd's i just ordered a set after breaking another ae cvd :mad: im hoping they are built stronger as they are claiming. the ae cvd's did last a season:lol:
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