Thanks, precise and to the point ...I didn't ask that question but always wondered, and now understand..So sense i run on a medium to large, 1/8 scale, loose clay, outside track would i be better off leaving the 87 spur on the stock brushless 3300kv system?Thanks

AE lists 18/84 for the 3300kv. To run a smaller spur gear you would need a smaller pinon to keep the ratio the same and running anything smaller than an 18t isn't good IMO, the tooth angle isn't right and creates wear. In the end with a 3300kv motor you're not going to want a spur smaller than an 84 anyway.

18/84 is what they come with, but if you're hitting the track, it's way undergeared.

24/82 is what ThunderbirdJunkie would run.

I run 22/84 currently with the factory brushless motor/esc.

Not sure what races or classes you all are running in but a 3300 kv motor would put you in the mod class with the fast guys.

A 17.5 motor with like the Novak Ballistic with 28/74 is like Its plenty of motor and power.

I ran timing on top of that and I was astonished but the temps come up pretty quick if you dont watch closely.

Can some one tell me what plastics are different between the Factory team and the normal kit & the RTR?

Like are they differnt material?

SC10 plastic parts are all the made of same material , no graphite ,ect.

I was running a Ballistic 17.5 in stock class with the Kinetic and I added as much as 40 degrees with 24/75 gearing and temps were fine and top speed was fantastic while keeping low end. You have to change gearing in you add timing to manage temps. I would adjust the timing based on temps after 5 minute runs.

Now I jumped to Mod class with a 8.5t with a little timing and it is super fast!! It drive closer to my Jammin SCRT10 now.

anyone having problems snapping/shearing off the head of the diff bolt? did it the first time, thought it was a fluke, did it again last night. in all my years of r/c (gold pan 6 gear rc10 days) i havent had this happen before, but this is also with lipos and BL motors.

when i build it, i tighten it all the way and back it off until i can get it to slip, then give it a tad more until it doesn. this is done by locking the outdrives with allens and grabbing the gear with my hands. it usually ends up ~1/8th turn out. i also test for slip on the bench with the motor after the initial build.

Check and make sure the thrust washers have no dirt under and are clean....

Thanks for the feedback on the gearing questions I had. Looks like I will be okay to start at 26/75 with the 17.5T Novak. I am still at a point where practice is going to help more than most setup changes. More power/speed doesn't necessarily mean faster lap times if you can't keep the nose of the truck pointed in the right direction.

My brushless system should be delivered on Monday, even more fun to be had!

Craig

Any good carpet oval setups out there? Stock or mod motored class it dosen't matter. I've been fighting it for 2 weeks now. Very sharp corners with long straights. Paper clip track, truck has alot of push in it.

push on carpet...
loosend diff (or thinner fluid for gear diff)
stiffer rear springs
batt all the way forward
add some weight (1/2oz on the servo works for me)
clean or use traction compound on the frt tires

that should get u started

my setup
frt arms level, gold springs, mid top hole, outter arm hole, 50wt oil, #2 pistons
rear, arms level, green springs, top inside hole, outter arm hole, 35wt oil, #3 pistons

I have about 1/4 inch of limiters inside the shocks to lower ride hieght
stock frt tires, hpi d compound rears.

Has anyone found a Dodge Ram body for the SC10?

No, 18/87 is how the sc 10 brushless 3300kv comes out of the box stock with.At least that it what it says on the manual??So what do you guys recommend i change the pinion to? Can go 19, 20, 21?I'm running on a larger 1/8 scale type track with a striaghtaway of about 25 -30 yards?