SC10 Thread
12-16-2010 | 09:43 AM
#5222
I use them. about $6.
They use 1/8" hinge pins so you just drill the AE arms and good to go.
Same bearings, get the crush sleeve that goes in between the bearings for extra security altho I didn't get em.
edit: missed it by that much.
Last edited by F N CUDA; 12-16-2010 at 09:46 AM. Reason: too late, well, tied for post time but less info from me
12-16-2010 | 11:12 AM
#5224
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 19
rear arm mounts
how does the degree of the rear arm mounts affect the handling?
12-16-2010 | 11:55 AM
#5225
if the rear tires are point toward eachother, they will keep the truck from wanting to push out. it creates sidebite toward the center of the truck instead of going straight wich ends up being loose
12-16-2010 | 01:05 PM
#5226
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 144
From: holland
I got THE 1* hubs, is that 1* per Side or 1* Total?
12-16-2010 | 01:20 PM
#5228
The correct way to use them is to:
1. Fill the shock with oil
2. Install the cap without the bleed screw installed
3. Compress the shock
4. While the shock is compressed, install the screw into the bleeder cap
5. You are done
It should be that easy!
1. Fill the shock with oil
2. Install the cap without the bleed screw installed
3. Compress the shock
4. While the shock is compressed, install the screw into the bleeder cap
5. You are done
It should be that easy!
12-16-2010 | 01:26 PM
#5230
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 345
From: YOUR MOMS HOUSE
I started to build my sc10 ft last night and when tightening the front bulkhead screws(hinge pin block) they didn't seem to snug up i didn't want to do any damage so i stop trying.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Has anyone else experienced this?
12-16-2010 | 02:58 PM
#5233
B4/T4 thread:
When you adjust the toe at the pivot (arm mount), it changes two things, besides the toe degree. First is it adjusts the wheelbase. Going from the 3* to a 4* block changes it so much that you have to run the long wheelbase. It also changes how stiff the suspension feels. The more toe you put in the stiffer the suspension feels. The less, the softer it feels. For example, at the ROAR Nationals this year we tried a 4* block, with 0* hubs, 25wt shock oil, and long wheelbase. The suspension still felt much stiffer than it had previously with a 3* block and 0* hubs.
Adjusting the toe at the hub, in theory should bind the CVA a bit, but other than that I can't think of any other effects of it.
I have tried both adjustments and prefer to run the 3* block at all times and adjust the toe with different hubs.
Adjusting the toe at the hub, in theory should bind the CVA a bit, but other than that I can't think of any other effects of it.
I have tried both adjustments and prefer to run the 3* block at all times and adjust the toe with different hubs.
12-16-2010 | 03:24 PM
#5234
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
I prefer the 3deg pivot mount as well and run the Racers Edge hubs. They come with the larger outside wheelbearing and run the ball stud on top rather than to the side like the FT hub does. They also come with a grub screw to lock the hinge pin to keep the hinge pin from wearing out the hub. You want the pin to rotate in the arms and not the hubs.
If you do run aluminum hubs, make sure you run Ti ball studs. Standard metal studs will break.
Going to 4deg from 3.5deg rear toe helped keep the rear end hooked up on our firm dirt track with light to med dust conditions. Helped get the power down! I just needed to retune the front end for on power steering.
If you do run aluminum hubs, make sure you run Ti ball studs. Standard metal studs will break.
Going to 4deg from 3.5deg rear toe helped keep the rear end hooked up on our firm dirt track with light to med dust conditions. Helped get the power down! I just needed to retune the front end for on power steering.
