F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Matt,
I figured it out and wrote it down, pistons, springs, oils.

It's all tweeners, none of it is exactly the same but very close.

Here ya go:

It's gonna go like this AE/Losi

Rear:
A Black 1.74/L White 1.8
A Green 1.90/L Yellow 2.0
A Silver 2.10/L Pink 2.3
A Grey 2.33/A Blue 2.55/L Red 2.6
A Gold 2.75/L Orange 2.9
A Red 2.95/L Silver 3.4
L Green 3.7/L Blue 4.1

Fronts:
A Blk 2.76/L Red 2.5
A Green 2.99/L Orange 2.9
A Silver 3.22/L Silver 3.2
A Blue 3.45/L Green 3.5
A Gold 3.70/L Blue 3.8
A Red 3.90/L Black 4.5

Pistons:
AE #1 is between Losi 54 and 55

AE #2 is between Losi 55 and 56

AE #3 is between Losi 56 and 57

Shock Oils:
I'm told Losi is 2.5 less than AE
ie, Losi 27.5 = AE 30

So if I want Losi shocks on my AE SC10 I'll do:
Losi 54 or 55 pistons (almost = AE #1) and white or yellow springs (almost = AE Green) on the REAR

Losi 56 or 57 pistons (AE # 3) and red or orange springs ( AE Gold) on the FRONT

Oil you can figure that out ez

verticalpilot

iTrader: (18)

Are the piston pads interchangeable? springs?

IIICJACKIII

iTrader: (8)

Me getting mine was just dumb luck. I went to my L.H.S. to get parts for my xxx-cr and saw one up on the wall. It was the only one they got in and the only reason he got it was to look at part of the diff. He made me a sweet deal on it and it went home with me. I had been looking at them and wanting to get one poss., guess i was in the right place at the right time.

Anyways, got it last fri. night , built it, then raced on sat. SMOKED the slashes!!
I put in the smallest motor i had (10.5 novak ) set the epa to 80% and was dead even with the fastest slash there. Set T.Q. and won the main. So far i am loving it. just waiting to see how durable it is going to be.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

FN CUDA, thank you for demystifying the difference between Losi and AE suspension parts/oils. I'm going to copy and paste your post and archive it in my RC notes section. VERY useful...

Lawso

iTrader: (2)

I live in Australia so its hard to call people who are 1 day behind a 9 hours ahead of us. I went to their website and printed off a missing or defective items form. If I send that to them, will there be no mucking around and just a pair of rear rims sent out?

BuggyKing

iTrader: (17)

Thx Cuda.

Is anyone having issues with the spider gears in the diffs grinding? I switched from shock oils to diff grease, but diff is getting stripped out easy?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I broke my SC10 chassis and top plate last nite racing and made a plate today to fix it.

I ran this plate all day over the broken chassis and it works perfectly.

I did have to buy a new top plate for $7 tho.

I didn't have to change the chassis and everything on it.

Just bolt the plate to the 2 original bulkhead screws then drill 2 new holes under the servo (pull the servo first!) and put 2 new screws with nuts in the new holes, remount the servo and go racing again.

Should take about 10 minutes, no new chassis and no complete rebuild.

I hand made several of these plates to help you guys that WILL eventually break your chassis in the same place.

You can get one to fix your chassis or get one to prevent breaking your chassis and top plate.

Or you can go get an aluminum plate at the hobby store, cut it, bend it, drill it, countersink it and then bolt it on but you won't be racing the same day that's for sure!

$20 shipped for one of my "F N Racing Stuff" plates.
Get your paypal ready.

RB was kind enough to keep a couple at the track (OCRC HOBBIES AND RACEWAY) for those who mite want or need one.

BuggyKing

iTrader: (17)

Hey Guys I have seen FN Cuda chassis braces and they are good quality piece. They work good if you break your chassis. Just bolt up and your ready to race again.

charly71

thats the 2nd broken chassis ive seen on this truck and in the same area

porkey

iTrader: (1)

I have broken 2 chassis on my b4. I race, I know how to drive, I don't know what I was doing worng?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Thanks BK,
Fun racin around yesterday

If you break a chassis, it'll get you back racin and if it aint broke it'll keep it that way

trx450racer174

iTrader: (7)

Cuda I like your idea but why not run the plate all the way back to the Battery posts??? I see you have drilled those out and have screws in them.
I am gonna make a aluminum plate then lay down some c/f.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

You should post that here as well:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ing-truck.html

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the tip reendude,

I hope the plates will save or repair lots of chassis.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Doesn't need to be any longer or wider to be effective, it's not a skid plate, just a reinforcement to a weaker area.

I'm running with a broken chassis that took 10 minutes to fix.

Less is more in this case, proven effective.

Hope your idea works out for you, sounds like a lot of work tho.