Mamba Max Pro
#1051
hey guys I have a couple questions hopefully you guys can get me heading in the right direction.
1) what the best way to keep the sensor wire from falling out of the port on the esc?
2) I'm been thinking about adding some timing to my TEKIN 1900kv after Saturday's race my on a really big open outdoor track my car felt like it was lacking bit of top end. I really don't want to go to a bigger pinion, don't want anymore bottom end punch like my old castle 2200 would do when I went to a bigger pinion it would be faster on the top and puncher on the bottom end. Can I use CHEAT timing boost on the tekin motors or it designed only for 10th scale motors?
1) what the best way to keep the sensor wire from falling out of the port on the esc?
2) I'm been thinking about adding some timing to my TEKIN 1900kv after Saturday's race my on a really big open outdoor track my car felt like it was lacking bit of top end. I really don't want to go to a bigger pinion, don't want anymore bottom end punch like my old castle 2200 would do when I went to a bigger pinion it would be faster on the top and puncher on the bottom end. Can I use CHEAT timing boost on the tekin motors or it designed only for 10th scale motors?
Nick, when I first got my Tekin RX8 w/ T8 1900kv I had the same problem. In fact it felt so slow to me (I had gotten used to the explosive power of a Mamba 2200kv) that I actually sent it back to Tekin, along with my RX8 which had failed almost immediately, and requested if they would please check it out with their diagnostics to see what was wrong. Of course they sent it back stating everything checked out normal. So I adapted to the feeling of it being so slow because my lap times were averaging 2-3 seconds less with this motor that I felt had no punch.
Which brings me to my next comment... I don't think you're going to have to worry about gearing yourself up and becoming too punchy on the bottom with the T8 1900kv, in fact I don't think you could cause that if you were trying to with the 1900kv. I eventually got the T8 2050kv as Randy Pike told me that was the motor to have in a buggy if you were looking for a power band with a bit of punch to it. He said it was due to the two motors being different winds. I believe he said the 1900kv was a "wye" wind and the 2050kv was a "delta" wind. It was definitely better but still not even close to the punch I was used to from the Mamba 2200kv, or the Xcelorin 2100kv. Now I much prefer the feeling of the sensored motors, and when I occasionally throw in one of the non-sensored motors like the 2200kv or the 2100kv, they just feel stooopid and hard to drive.
What size pinion were you running? I'm assuming this was in a Ve8. Last week I ran a 21/50 and Josh was running 22/50 which was down from his usual 23/50. Anyway.. try gearing and staying with smart-sense before resorting to CHEAT mode, regardless the 1900kv is just going to feel slow to you for awhile.
HH
#1053
How big of an improvement would a mmp esc be over the velineon set up? I would keep the stock motor a vxl but I have heard adding a castle esc can make it faster, but will it run hotter? I would like to have some tuning options.
#1054
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
The Mamba max setup will be a step up from the velineon setup depending on what motor you would want to run in the truck/car. The MMP esc is a very good esc that if taken care of correctly will not get too hot. The MMP esc has a fan on it which will also help for temps. Overall both the velineon and Mamba esc's are not bad at any means but for tuning options, go with the MMP!
#1055
When I spoke time Castle they told me they would be happy to send me a new esc but asked me to to contact the local hobby shop (Mike's Hobby Shop ib Carrolton, TX) that I bought it from and see if they would give me another one and they would send them a new one. Mike's Hobby Shop took car of me and got me another one but this one appears to have because it is having cogging/power loss issues. I am running it with a Ballistic 550 5.5. I have a Futaba 3pmx radio system. I have updated the firmware, raised the Because to. 6 volts from 5.5, replaced the sensor wire, added a receiver capacitor, and switched servos. Other than BEC voltage change, I am running the default settings. This is very disappointing for both the original and a replacement to be defective. I will report back on Castle's response after I talk to them on Tuesday.
#1056
Tech Regular
iTrader: (67)
Does anyone know the factory settings that come on the MMP out of the box? I hooked mine up to a Novak 4.5 Ballistic motor. Very smooth. Very quick.
This was on a stock Jammin SCRT10.
Just wanted to know what I have to gain when I program it (I have the Castle Link, just got too excited to program it before a test run)
This was on a stock Jammin SCRT10.
Just wanted to know what I have to gain when I program it (I have the Castle Link, just got too excited to program it before a test run)
#1058
Tech Regular
iTrader: (67)
Does anyone know the factory settings that come on the MMP out of the box? I hooked mine up to a Novak 4.5 Ballistic motor. Very smooth. Very quick.
This was on a stock Jammin SCRT10 and SPC 20c 2s 5000mah.
Just wanted to know what I have to gain when I program it (I have the Castle Link, just got too excited to program it before a test run)
This was on a stock Jammin SCRT10 and SPC 20c 2s 5000mah.
Just wanted to know what I have to gain when I program it (I have the Castle Link, just got too excited to program it before a test run)
#1060
Tech Regular
iTrader: (67)
Yeah I'm just wondering how they come from the factory. Just plugging it into my 4.5 Ballistic and taking off.
Just kinda wondering what I have to gain by programming it. I don't have any experience with programming a MMP and thought this might be the place to gather info on it.
Thanks!
Jake
Just kinda wondering what I have to gain by programming it. I don't have any experience with programming a MMP and thought this might be the place to gather info on it.
Thanks!
Jake
#1062
Shockingly the manual that came with your MMP also indicates the factory settings. First place to look for basic info like that is usually in the documentation that came with the product in the box.
#1063
Need some help. Been running a Novak GTB with a HV5.5 in a Jammin SCRT10. Switched to a Mamba Max Pro ESC, and having a couple problems.
1) With the sensor wire plugged in, the wheels will hardly spin, unplug the sensor wire and it seems fine.
2) With the sensor wiire unplugged it is slower than the my previous setup, feels like I am running at 75-80% throttle on both top end and accelaration. I tried gearing up a tooth, but it is still slower.......
Not sure what to do about either issue, rather disappointing.....
The ESC is at mostly stock settings. I set the start power to low (Seems it should be higher), punch control is disabled and set the timing to 0 (but did change it back to 10* trying to get better oerformance). I am running 2S 6300mah lipo 40c/80c that has always ran fine in other cars, even tried a different battery (2S 5000mah 40C)
1) With the sensor wire plugged in, the wheels will hardly spin, unplug the sensor wire and it seems fine.
2) With the sensor wiire unplugged it is slower than the my previous setup, feels like I am running at 75-80% throttle on both top end and accelaration. I tried gearing up a tooth, but it is still slower.......
Not sure what to do about either issue, rather disappointing.....
The ESC is at mostly stock settings. I set the start power to low (Seems it should be higher), punch control is disabled and set the timing to 0 (but did change it back to 10* trying to get better oerformance). I am running 2S 6300mah lipo 40c/80c that has always ran fine in other cars, even tried a different battery (2S 5000mah 40C)
#1064
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
Need some help. Been running a Novak GTB with a HV5.5 in a Jammin SCRT10. Switched to a Mamba Max Pro ESC, and having a couple problems.
1) With the sensor wire plugged in, the wheels will hardly spin, unplug the sensor wire and it seems fine.
2) With the sensor wiire unplugged it is slower than the my previous setup, feels like I am running at 75-80% throttle on both top end and accelaration. I tried gearing up a tooth, but it is still slower.......
Not sure what to do about either issue, rather disappointing.....
The ESC is at mostly stock settings. I set the start power to low (Seems it should be higher), punch control is disabled and set the timing to 0 (but did change it back to 10* trying to get better oerformance). I am running 2S 6300mah lipo 40c/80c that has always ran fine in other cars, even tried a different battery (2S 5000mah 40C)
1) With the sensor wire plugged in, the wheels will hardly spin, unplug the sensor wire and it seems fine.
2) With the sensor wiire unplugged it is slower than the my previous setup, feels like I am running at 75-80% throttle on both top end and accelaration. I tried gearing up a tooth, but it is still slower.......
Not sure what to do about either issue, rather disappointing.....
The ESC is at mostly stock settings. I set the start power to low (Seems it should be higher), punch control is disabled and set the timing to 0 (but did change it back to 10* trying to get better oerformance). I am running 2S 6300mah lipo 40c/80c that has always ran fine in other cars, even tried a different battery (2S 5000mah 40C)
#1065
OK I have looked through thi thread and found alot of good info, However nobody is saying how hot there 1/8's are getting motor wise. I had a Tekin rx8 die on me so I picked up a MMP and installed it. I'm running mainly defualt settings which I think is 10 degree of timing in smart sense mode.
Heres what I'm running
Tekin 2050
RC8Be
Mamba Max Pro in smart sense and 10 degrees of timing.
I've had an 18 tooth pinion on it and the motor temp was up to 180
19 tooth 188 temp
21 tooth 205 temp
22 tooth 205 temp
So I geuss I have two questions
1) whats a good temp range for the 8th tekin motors and
2) What kind of settings are you guys using on your speedos to keep the temps down?
The track I'm running on is large with alot of high speed areas, however with the 18 the car will barly make the one large triple, It better with the 19 and unreal with the 21 and 22 but maybe to fast. Didn't get a chance to run a 20 yet to see what it was like but I'm thinking thats what I need.
Any Info would be great
Thanks
Heres what I'm running
Tekin 2050
RC8Be
Mamba Max Pro in smart sense and 10 degrees of timing.
I've had an 18 tooth pinion on it and the motor temp was up to 180
19 tooth 188 temp
21 tooth 205 temp
22 tooth 205 temp
So I geuss I have two questions
1) whats a good temp range for the 8th tekin motors and
2) What kind of settings are you guys using on your speedos to keep the temps down?
The track I'm running on is large with alot of high speed areas, however with the 18 the car will barly make the one large triple, It better with the 19 and unreal with the 21 and 22 but maybe to fast. Didn't get a chance to run a 20 yet to see what it was like but I'm thinking thats what I need.
Any Info would be great
Thanks